Dear All,
I have managed to squeeze in the 1/4" spacers between the engine and the frame which the previous owner deleted. However the bolt is now too short to fit through. It looks to be 3/8" by 7.5 "
This is odd as I gather this is right for the bike. I have washers at both ends. The thread on the bolt is, to be honest a bit worn.
I tried the old trick of leaving one washer off, doing up the nut to pull everything up tight, and then removing the nut and putting the washer on, but there isn't quite enough thread for the nut to grab hold of.
SO, what to do?
I thought to buy a replacement bolt, in the hope that a sharp new thread would make the difference, but everywhere seems to be out of stock.
So, could I use a bolt from another bike? Is there an 8" bolt available?
I could leave the washers off completely, but this seems like a bit of a bodge, unless someone can say otherwise?
Thanks in advance,
Ian
Hi Ian
I think the spacer is part no 83-2005 which is 15/64" thick.
I think the bolt should be 40-4075 which is 3/8"-26x7 1/4". Give 'Trade Classic Bikes' a ring, Richard is very helpful.
If the standard one is going to be too short, 'Acme Stainless' will make exactly what you want.
Thanks Greenfield,
I have a spacers in already, but I will check out the part no
Ian
Just looking at the exploded diagram on Draganfly, it looks like there, maybe, should only be one spacer.
Yep, it is confusing. The diagram in the Haynes manual shows two spacers, one on either side of the engine, although this looks like a slightly different frame. The diagram on the Draganfly site shows one spacer only ( on the right) and one washer. Maybe this is the correct version as the bolt would be about the right length. I want to get it right. I don't want the engine to be misaligned.
Sorry to throw a proverbial spanner in the works, but on some sites I notice that the spacer is listed as 40-4080 which is only 1/8" thick I believe.
If you have one washer under the nut plus one spacer 40-4080, will the correct bolt then be long enough?
Yep,
My spacers are 1/8". I reckon that with one spacer and one washer I might be able to get the nut on. Just so long as this is correct and doesn't lead to any sort of a misalignment.
Ian
I think there might have been some variation in the spacer and frame over the years. Assuming yours is a 'standard ' C15 (not trials) and built 1965 or before, then I believe the norm was one spacer of 1/8" thickness on the offside. That is certainly the case for my 1965 bike. (As I have found, if previous owners have got the spacer wrong, then the lower frame rails will be bent slightly out of shape, which will create other problems like not being able to remove the sump plate without removing the engine...)
Also, the correct lower engine mount bolt has a low profile head with only two flats. This becomes important when you try to fit the exhaust pipe, which doesn't fit if you have a standard sized bolt head in the way. Especially if the engine is not correctly positioned in the frame due to incorrect lower engine mount spacers...
Excellent, thanks Tigerfeet!! :D
That makes me feel much more confident. Yep the bolt is right, exactly as you describe.
I will take that surplus spacer out then.
BR,
Ian
Eck! As I think I mentioned the thread was already worn and the nut stripped out when I started to tighten it. New bolt time I think. Anyone know where I can get a new nut and bolt combo for the bottom engine mount?
Try these
Draganfly
Kidderminster motor cycles
Chas bike
All helpful
Hi, Thanks for the names.
I tried a few online, which were out of stock, but I ended up driving out to an old fashioned bike shop in Farnham named Rockerbox. I picked up a couple of original second-hand studs with new nuts.
The only issue is that these studs have nuts on both ends, so I will need to be careful that the head is clear of the exhaust.
Ian
You might want to see if you can buy a half nut of the correct thread. I had lower engine bolts from two vendors - and neither were correct. The issue only becomes clear when you have the right-side footrest mounted: The gap for the exhaust pipe is tight - and if you tweak the exhaust pipe bends to get it to fit then you will almost certainly be out of alignment for fitting the silencer. I'd try a few trial assemblies of the engine / footrest / exhaust / silencer to see what works.