ref w33-6 clutch severe slipping issues after having the bike 3 years im dying to take it out properly but i have this issue...
ive just got down to taking the w33-6 out for a quick run around the block yesterday to find after tightening the clutch nut up i still have the clutch slip...
investigation ::
ive removed the clutch nut and spring with the appropriate tool and removed the outer clutch (sliding plate with nuts), to have a look and the first thing i found was a very rough plate that was in between the first clutch plate and the outer slide plate and is wafer thin... see picture if its on.. looking tho at the outer sliding plate there is quite a bit of wear and was wondering if that was the reason for this....and that someone has put a thin spacer in to compensate ??? anyway its now well torn spacer...?
1/ if so what would be the solution?
2/ i found 37 ball bearings not 40 are they 5/16 bearings can i get equivalent metric bearings to suit..
3/ how do i remove the gearbox clutch sleeve only i have a new one if i decide to fit it?
4/ i have all new clutch parts apart from bearings and the outer clutch slide plate with nuts?
5/ obviously everything will need cleaning
Phil,
If you are trying to remove the clutch hub, you may be able to fit the legs of a puller behind the hub to get it off.
Alternatively, if the threads on the hub are good, if you screw on the ring nut and make a spacer to bear against the end of the mainshaft, you could fit the legs of a puller behind the ring nut and pull it off......but the threads tend to be a bit iffy.
There should be 40 3/16" balls in the bearing, and if the outer brass ring is an interference fit on the hub, be sure to allow 0.002" clearance for the balls to rotate.
Obviously you need a new outer plate with the studs on, (they sometimes turn up on ebay), but I wonder if you could fit a thin steel disc to it with countersunk rivets, just to get you back on the road. If it ends up too thick, maybe you could leave out a steel and fibre disc. Just a thought.
I suppose you could cut the old scored bit off and weld a new steel ring on, but it would probably distort badly unless you had it Laser welded!
Perhaps others have a better solution.
Let us know how you get on.
Thanks for your prompt reply i really appreciate that !
the ball bearings i couldnt quite make out the size because of the poor print on the copied parts list i have! cheers for that excellent
i can leave the old hub on if necessary the old one isnt too bad, the locknut is new and the thread on the hub is pretty good but if i do decide to remove it il do what you say ..
ref the main outer plate il keep my eyes open and il have look around and do some asking etc but as you say it can be solved.
do you think someone has used a wafer thin plate as shown in my pictures to reduce the gap? just couldnt believe it when i saw it!!
the bike is stunning and has won trophies in the past by the previous owner but ive not ridden properly because i have have other bikes so it been left for 2 years until yesterday when i thought id pop around the block and after 3 little runs had no 3 gear just stuck in first with no pull and couldnt kick it over until i tighten the nut again!!
thanks you Phil
I wonder if a previous owner had simply fitted a steel clutch plate against the outer plate, instead of a fibre one? The scoring seems to be across the whole face of the outer plate and the other plate has just worn away to almost nothing.
I hope you have a diagram of the sequence of fitting the plates.
I was wondering that steve
And yes I have a record of all the sequence of plates Direction and have all brand new drive / driven and complete set of friction plates plus I've used my go pro to record everything and will upload it on to
YouTube once it's all done and working eventually....
For other people to see as there's not a lot on YouTube about pre war repairs.
I have parts books manuals and the picture of the clutch and how it goes together albeit the original
Black and white..
I've ordered the 3/16 ball bearings today ready but obviously this could take some time to solve
It's one thing working on 50/60s bikes it's another on pre war so I enjoy the research and will take great care to not rush it and will listen and discuss before I go to the next stage
Thanks again
Oh yes
It's strange about the thin plate that's worn to nothing
There is as I previously said a friction plate on the first plate and in good order considering but the thin plate was in between this and the outer plate ??
It looks the same metal type as the outer plate
As you said before once I know the material on the outer plate this may have to be removed and replaced by an engineer or someone may come up with another solution
Heh these things are interesting and will be interesting to solve so I won't be just leaving alone it's got nothing be done it's ost a lot of money and I want to ride it 😊😊😊
Quote from: philgreen5 on 16 Oct, 2023, 22:26
Oh yes
It's strange about the thin plate that's worn to nothing
There is as I previously said a friction plate on the first plate and in good order considering but the thin plate was in between this and the outer plate ??
It looks the same metal type as the outer plate
As you said before once I know the material on the outer plate this may have to be removed and replaced by an engineer or someone may come up with another solution
Heh these things are interesting and will be interesting to solve so I won't be just leaving alone to rot it's got be done it's cost a lot of money and I want to ride it 😊😊😊
Phil,
If you search ebay for item no. 175988114197, I think you will might the part you are looking for. You decide.
I think the clutch dome is for the highly desirable Sloper.
Steve.