Hi, I am asking for info, opinions, tips etc regarding the late type M21 gearbox, when shifting up through the gears I get a lot of false neutrals especially between 2nd and 3rd and less so between 3rd and 4th, I don't think it is a problem in the main gear selectors but more to do with the pawls and springs, has anyone had any of these issues and how was it rectified, cheers, Ralphy
I had issues with this and I've heard it's not the best shifting gearbox in the world. I was advised by another rider with the same gearbox to keep some pressure on the gear lever until the drive is taken up. When I do this I get very few false neutrals. From neutral into first, though, I find rolling the bike back slightly at the same time as putting the bike into gear works well, as does a tickover speed that isn't too high. I just push back with the left foot. Not that it should be really slow, no matter how nice it sounds.
If you remove the outer cover at the top right is an adjusterable linkage half a turn either way may do it. Otherwise go on the WDM20 site lots of gearbox info on there.
thanks for the info gents, I will check out the adjustment of the link,
cheers, Ralph
I am not sure if my gearbox is the same as yours but what works best for my 52 B33 is when going from 2nd to 3rd gear I always take care to press slow and steady on the foot shift lever and I KEEP the foot pressure steady on the foot lever until I fully release the clutch lever. Only after third gear is fully engaged and pulling under power do I release the foot pressure on the shifting lever. I still get false nuturals going from 4th to 3rd but I have found the description above to help a lot with less false neutrals going from 2nd to third. Also if I short shift, as in moving from second to third in the lower revs I get a better result if the revs are low enough. I dont even have to use my normal work arounds for missing neutral if the revs are low at shift time. Good luck, hope this helps.
For what its worth I pretty much totally rebuilt the gear box last year and this work around is still my go to solution, the rebuilt helped with some of the other issues but I still have false neutral issues from time to time.........wayne.
That's a nice looking bike and I love the stand! Do the legs hinge and what is the technique for lifting the bike up?
Thanks Studebaker, I dont want to hijack this thread but to answer your question yes it has a hinged rear leg assembly. So when the rear legs are not in the locked position as shown in the photo I engine power the bike up the slope of the bike stand to the bikes final stopped location, then with a helper I ask them to slide the car jack under the down slope of the jack and lift the rear of the stand up to its resting level location. Then I fasten the rachet straps and also lock in the hinged rear legs. I also lock in the rear wheel so it doesnt want to roll of the stand. Seems to work well. Thanks for the compliment........wayne
Although my gearbox is about par for the course, I have an embarrassing issue at traffic lights and roundabouts, when it will not go into gear. I said above it's not too bad with a low tickover, but I'd forgotten how my tickover speed goes up when the engine warms up, meaning I can't get it into gear and of course it's when there's a queue of cars behind me. It didn't do this so much before, but now I'm running in after a rebore it's quite a problem.
Perhaps this needs a new forum thread.
Try adjusting the linkage. Inside front cover top right.
Quote from: idie on 10 Jun, 2023, 18:08
Try adjusting the linkage. Inside front cover top right.
Not quite awake yet, (it's Sunday morning) so is this in answer to me?