How is the worm drive with pump lubricated in normal use?
I have fitted one all seems ok. I primed the system with PRV off and seem to have good flow.
I did lubricate the pump a little when I fitted it, but wonder if I should have done more?
I suddenly thought before riding I should take covers off again and give it a good oil?
Or will the it self lubricate when running, I assume it must, but doe sit need a head start?
Thank you
Hi,
Engine rebuilds or work will need assembly lubrication on all moving surfaces. I use this, because the time between rebuilds and starting is usually a month or so:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-10152-Assembly-Lube/dp/B000WJ3M6I
Best wishes...
It's only the plain bearing surfaces that you need to worry about when starting an engine for the first time after an overhaul - the inaccessible ones (eg cam shaft bushes) need to have been lubricated during assembly. Ideally, you need to turn the engine over by hand (perhaps via the rear wheel with spark plug removed and bike on centre stand) until you see oil returning to the oil tank - that way you know oil has been pumped into the timing side main bearing (unless SRM converted) and then into the big-end bearings. A good squirt of oil into the top of each cylinder will coat the cylinder walls with oil. Timing pinions and the oil pump worn gear in particular don't really need to be lubricated during assembly - they will get a coating of oil soon after the engine has been started.
:) :) :) :)
I usuallytake the plugs out and turn it over by hand with the kick start. Usually takes about 200 kicks to get oil flowing all round and back to the tank.
Mike 8) 8) 8)
To me, oil returning to the tank only means that the sump is being emptied .
Not that the "pressure" lines have been filled .
Unless , of course, the sump was dry prior to the action.
Am I wrong ?
Hi,
An interesting point especially as there are some suggestions that some oil should be put directly in to the sump prior to running.
It is obviously useful to know if oil has got to the big ends. The oil pressure switch, although set to only about 7 to 10 psi, will help to indicate that oil has reached those fragile shells. With the oil light connected it will be on until the engine is turned. Just turning the engine by kicking or through turning the back wheel will produce enough pressure to switch the oil light off.
It may take a several turns as, unless the oil ways and the crank are full of oil, there will be spaces to fill before any pressure builds up. If my bike has been standing for a while I will turn the engine over slowly until the oil light goes off before the extra effort to start the motor.
Dave.
To check the oil has been pumped through all the oilways to the big-end bearings as suggested, it is necessary to start off with a dry sump. However, as indicated, it is a good idea to then put 1/2 pint of oil into the sump before actually starting the bike for the first time because this oil will then get splashed around the bottom of the engine by the crankshaft as the engine starts coating things like the camshaft in oil and possibly the timing gears.
Hi,
This might avoid confusion (although the UK service sheet recommends 1/2 pint of oil not 1 pint).
Best wishes...
I put 1/2 L or ~1 pint into the last engine I rebuilt but that had an electric start. The concern I would have in putting too much oil into an A65 is that it might then be a bit difficult to kick it over fast enough to get it started because of the oil drag on the crankshaft.