I'm still struggling with my 'bargain' B40!
The engine is completely stripped and I've turned my attention to the crank. The big end seems fine, the sludge trap plug finally gave in to reveal an almost clear tube. The timing side bush is a good fit on its collar BUT... none of the holes in the collar fully line up with the oil way in the crank (see photo').
Is there anything that can be done or is it a case of removing the collar by cutting and replacing it and the bush?
All advice gratefully received, thanks.
The parts book shows that the 2 x shafts running in the main bearings on either side are press/interference fits into the flywheels - the journals do not appear to be separate parts and so I assume these are machined as part of the flywheels. If so, the problem here appears to be that the RH shaft has been pressed into the flywheel without properly lining up the oil holes in the shaft and journal.
To fully correct the problem, you would need to completely dismantle the crankshaft assembly and start again which would be a total phaff. If this is a 1963+ roller big-end motor, I would probably try to live with the misalignment since a slightly reduced oil supply to the big-end bearing is not such a big issue. However, if it is an earlier B40 with plain big-end bearing, I'm not sure I would take the risk.
The sleeve (40 0042) is a replaceable part. It pulls off with a special tool, 61 3593 see below. The pegs on the legs go in the holes in the sleeve.
I think that if you carefully examine the sleeve you will find that there is an undercut channel beneath the drillings to allow the oil to pass into the shaft.
This link shows a new old stock sleeve which does show the undercut.
https://mikesclassiccyclespares.com/product/40-0042/
I can now see the separate sleeve in the parts book - interestingly in the C15 parts book it is shown drawn in the crankshaft exploded drawing but, in the B40 parts book, it is shown elsewhere!
In this case, I would therefore have thought it unlikely the sleeve would have been pressed on misaligned - if it had, it would have been a simple matter to remove again and then to press on correctly. That said, if it has slipped on the crankshaft, I would have expected it to have rotated in the other direction - that is, CCW which does not appear to be the case.
It may be a case of using some Loctite retaining fluid when you re-assemble it to make sure it doesn't slip in the future?
Thanks both.
I'm a bit more encouraged!
Does it usually need a lot of heat to remove the collar?
With all interference fits, a bit of heat expands the outer part and reduces the force needed to remove it and also reduces the amount of damage caused!
So ...
Realising I was never going to find an original puller I set about making some arms for my BSA universal two legged puller. M8 high tensile bolts, filed flat, drilled and tapped to take M4 grub screws.
Only one broken tap (and so one u/s bolt) later I had a pair.
I've got a spare crank to experiment on and the journal collar came off smoothly and pretty easily without any heat.
Suitably emboldened I attacked the useable crank with the same result.
I'll use some picture when I press it back on.
Tanks again for the advice and links.
Looking at the journal collar it has an annular(?) ring inside so the alignment of the holes does not seem to be critical. RR does advise alignment though as bringing a small improvement to big end lubrication (every little helps!).