Hi all
I have just joined this forum today and already looking for help!!!
I am looking to buy a BSA B40 350cc. I am buying it 'blind' as I am not able to go and see it.
Currently it is a non runner, but told it has plenty of compression and it is believed that its not running due to old/bad fuel.
This has lead me to think about the issue of adapting to unleaded petrol.
Is this a difficult thing to do?
Much thanks in advance
Rev Russ Grenacre
I think most people aren't concerned with using unleaded fuel without altering anything in the engine. I haven't on the bikes I have owned. I'd bet the previous owner never bothered too much about it too.
It's a personal choice though and you can get it done, it's not really a DIY job, but as I understand (I may be wrong) it's quite an easy job for a machine shop, but likely to cost a few quid.
I think more people are concerned with Ethonol in the fuel that can damage the rubber components e.g fuel hoses and carb parts etc.
OK cheers for that. I wasnt sure if it would prevent it running at all
Hi Rev Russ,
I am also relatively new to this; I bought a bike just over two years ago. The problem with the ethanol is that takes water out of the atmosphere very easily (I am sure that there is a more scientific word for that but off the top of my head I don't know what it is). As I understand the issue there are two (possible three) negative consequences for old bikes that are generally run when the sun shines.
The first is water in the petrol tank causing corrosion. If you plan to use your bike all year round and are regularly replacing the fuel you may not have a problem. I am a sunny day rider and so my bike stands in the garage for several months with the same fuel in it. This will draw water from the atmosphere and will sit at the bottom of the tank and could cause corrosion. The solutions are empty the tank at the end of the riding season or get the tank lined either as a DIY job or professionally.
The second (possible) issue is the effect of ethanol on pipework and carburettor components that were not designed to work with ethanol. I understand that it is possible for the pipework to degrade. The solution is to gradually replace the pipes and carburettor components.
The third is that burning ethanol in a combustion chamber can damage the exhaust valves. I have been told by a mechanical engineer who I trust that if you have aluminium head it will already have sintered value seats and so should be resistant to any issues - However, I am way beyond my own area of expertise in talking about this.
Finally, I would suggest that, like me, you do a thorough internet search and look at the comments. Then try to work out which are based on fact and which on opinion. I use the E5 premium petrol but I have read on some bike forums people who are happily putting E10 into their classic bikes and claiming that they have no issues with it. I am not an expert so my comments may draw out many who may completely disagree with me, but we will see,
Good luck with finding the right bike for you,
The Revd. Kev Fear
From one Rev to another, thanks and every blessing.
I think that a seller claiming a nonstarter is due to old petrol might not be fully trusted. It is a simple task to empty it and pour in new petrol. Which should add value to the bike if it runs.
Having more than a dozen petrol engines which hibernates wintertime, I've only once had a nonstarter lawnmover due to ethanol containing fuel. A bit to much time needed for emptying all of them in the autumn. So now I use ethanolfree petrol for the last two fillings before winter. I also charge all batteries at least once in the winter. And of course drain crankcases that had wetsumped.
The main problem with buying a non-runner, whether buying blind or after an inspection, is that you can't really judge what state the engine is likely to be in. With a runner, you can see how well the engine appears to run in terms of throttle response and you can listen out for any strange sounds that may indicate potential problems.
It may well be not be starting due to old fuel but I would inquire about the bike's history to see how long the current owners has it it and when it was last used regularly. Looking at its MOT history can sometimes be useful. If was being used regularly until a year or so ago then the non-starting may not be such a concern.
That all said, buying a non-starter is a risk and the price should reflect that, perhaps, going for £500 less than it would have done had it been a runner.
hi Mike40M,
where do you buy non-ethanol petrol? From your description (you use it just before hibernation for winter) I guess that this is too expensive to run with all year?
Kev
Esso synergy petrol is ethanol free in most areas, see link to them.
https://www.esso.co.uk/en-gb/fuels
I sometimes use it in my iron head A10 but mostly just fill up with E10. So far no problems with that.
personally , I'd steer clear of a NON-runner whatever the vendor may say.
as mentioned above, you just do not know what you are walking into - major can of worms
unless the price is ridiculously cheap and I mean stupidly cheap - steer clear
if its a non runner due to fuel, thats not a real excuse. on a Brit bike, its easy enough to clean and get running. As someone who works on bikes in the trade a couple of clamps and fuel hose is easy compared to pulling a bank of four out of a modern (1980's on Japanese) bike .
My A10 never gets used , so the fuel goes off , a few minutes and the carb is off. with the virago Ive just done, you are talking about the best part of an hour for each operation , in and out.
I always recommend the super unleaded if you cant get ultra or extreme , and if you want a bit of help, an octane booster like Silkolene Pro Boost.
the first thing to do would be to try to do a compression test. this would check a leaking valve or piston rings, the only other problems would be ignition timing or a flat battery if electronic ignition, not as much a problem with points.
A quick check is a can of easy start through the air box and regardless of age of fuel in the carb, it should bang, this would be a positive, a couple of squirts and it should run .
as has been said, if the price is right, it could be worth it. Im currently looking into 3 modern bikes a 600, a 1000 and a 1064 , different makes all of which are standing non runners. If I can get at the right price, I could end up with all three. I will probably have to pull the carbs on all 3 but its better for me to do at the right price than for the current owner having to struggle and then get someone else to do it , then try to recover the price.
Here in CA, yep it's ethanol. I changed the float needle, float and petcocks.....and of course, metal tank on my B25.....and I have never stared it yet. Soon.
It's a must-do, here. If you can get regular unleaded without ethanol, excellent.
Awesome cheers folks for all the info. I'll keep you informed as to what happens lol 😆 😂 😅
Re non ethanol fuel. Here in Sweden, we can buy Aspen in 95, 98, 102 octane. Bulk use is for chain saws, lawn mowers etc. At least 95 and oilmix is available in the UK. It is an alkylate petrol with low emissions and long storage life. Out of own experience 5 years in a Norton 16H starting second kick. The higher grades which I use in the Manx and other high comp engines is probably not available in the UK. The older bikes built in the era of pool petrol runs happily on 95.
Just a quick thank you to JulianS - I did not know that Esso Synergy + is ethanol free - that is a really valuable bit of information. Fortunately I have been using this petrol in my Norton Dominator since I have had the bike,
Kevin