I'm about to finally start work on my '64 A50CC project and would like your thoughts on engine restoration options please.
It was imported partly dismantled although the bottom end is still together. All looks to be in pretty good order and there's little wear apparent to the top end parts. It's still on std bore.
Previously I've only used engineering services for specific work that I can't undertake like rebore, regrind etc including on early A50 and A65 models.
However, I'm now wondering whether, given the higher spec and performance of this engine compared with the basic 'Star' model whether it might be a sensible option to outsource the full recon and rebuild process to an established engineering business.
What thoughts on this please and any recommensations on who to approach (or not) and what sort of budget I would need for the work?
(I guess one of the major questions would be whether to go for the SRM-like main bearing conversion). On my previous models I've just had them line bored and stuck with the bush but maybe I should consider it for this engine?
Look forward to hearinmg your thoughts.
--Bernie
Hi Bernie,
If you have successfully rebuilt an A50/A65 previously then the A50CC should not present anything new. As far as I know the difference is to do with compression and carbs so everything below the head is the same.
The SRM end feed conversion is a very good modification but it is not cheap so the justification could well be based on how many miles you are likely to do on this engine. The more miles the more affordable the end feed becomes due to increased longevity of the bottom end. I would strongly advise using a detergent oil after using running in oil and a full flow cartridge filter regardless of what you do to the bottom end. This results in a much cleaner engine and even after very high mileage a virtually empty sludge trap.
As far as budget goes, the bearing used in the end feed conversion is currently about £100. You need to contact SRM for a ballpark figure for their work.
Dave.
When I started restoring bikes about 15 years ago (maybe 20 years), I took the first engine to SRM for them to do some of the basic work, probably a re-bore and bush replacements but no conversions of any sort. The work was to a very high standard but I remember they were very expensive at the time and, as my experience grew, I realised I could get that sort of work done far cheaper and quicker using more local engineering companies.
I would have total confidence in SRM carrying out a complete engine rebuild but I suspect the cost would be a lot more than I would consider paying. I actually paid about £2.5 k for a non-BSA engine rebuild a few years ago but this guy's labour rate was relatively low and it would not surprise me if the cost at SRM would be considerable more although that depends on how much work needs to be done on the engine.
You sound competant enough to do it yourself. Just ship ouf tye precision engineering stuff. Where are you located.
Thanks all - will tackle it myself :)
When I was in Dorset I used to use Hamlins in Bridgwater for all my bike engine work.
Now I've travelled back in time.... and moved to Norfolk so will see if I can find anyone locally for the work.
We have a magic powder-coating business locally, I took my B40 cycle parts in there for a blast and paint and a couple of weeks later picked them all up, got back to the workshop and unwrapped an A10 frame and parts ::) Just need to find a place that can do the same with the engine ;D ;D
Hi,
Go along to the Norfolk BSAOC Branch. They will have the local knowledge.
Dave.
Quote from: BILL NELSON on 16 Feb, 2023, 16:15
Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 11 Feb, 2023, 14:53
Hi,
Go along to the Norfolk BSAOC Branch. They will have the local knowledge.
Dave.
My mate up the road had some A10 work done by a firm near Bacton - recommended by Norfolk Branch at the time. I can get his name if necessary.
T&L at Bedford are good and reliable.
As Dave says, you should be able to do most, if not all of it yourself. Don't be talked into unnecessary rebores and crank grinds, but do do the sludge trap & fit a filter. Nothing wrong with the timing side bush - we used to race them & use the bikes daily as well. Good oil is the answer, changed every 1k miles or so, or 2k miles if used a lot with oil up to temperature. In my experience, it generally needs about 25-30 miles to get oil up to full heat. As engine temperatures vary between parts of the engine and overall during a run (oil air cooling isn't as good at controlling heat as water cooled), oil takes a bit of a hammering. Running carbs too rich doesn't help either.
Thanks. Bacton is just up the road so if you do have the details that would be great!
I'll also see if I can along to one of the monthly meets.
Regards,
Bernie