Has anyone fitted this valve to a B40 Star/C15 Star ?
Well I bought one (from, I presume, "Polly" Palmer) on ebay, for my B40 Star. Advert just says fit as close to engine as possible )( presume this is to minimise air lock potential ...as suction from oil on the engine side is needed to open the valve ?)
looking at the pretty short oil line..... it looks a bit tight....... and as the valve and spiggots are 10.5cm in length and need to be straight, it looks like there is no choice but to put it at the tank end of the line...with the centre of the valve just below where the pipe currently passes the swing arm grease nipple...... This would appear to leave it above the height of the pump, which one comment on this forums says should be avoided.
Now I see others who have used this(?) valve have been happy with it, but I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has fitted it to a B40/C15 RE positioning .... & any tips on minimising risks of airlocks when fitting and at oil changes.
(Obviously I will be looking for returned oil like a hawk .....but tips
Have a look at kingpin components. They sell a tap which screws into the oil tank output. It also has a cutout switch built in so there is no danger of not turning it on much safer than relying on vaccum.
Unless of course I forget to turn the tap on. The consequences are high and quick if either approach goes wrong.
I've seen loadsa conversations about the pros and cons of each approach. I reckon I probably could make myself follow a consistent starting routine with a tap approach....but would if possible like to hear from check valve users on any tips that have worked fine for them.....as I do intend to fit the Bri-Tie valve.....well probably (!).......
Cheers
I've fitted these anti wet sumping valves to my B33, B40 and A50 and never had a problem They work a treat. Prime the tube with oil on assembly and just let it do its thing. After starting just check that oil is returning to the tank. B40 pics attached.
Quote from: Greenfield on 10 Jan, 2023, 10:59
I've fitted these anti wet sumping valves to my B33, B40 and A50 and never had a problem They work a treat. Prime the tube with oil on assembly and just let it do its thing. After starting just check that oil is returning to the tank. B40 pics attached.
Read what i wrote again.
It has a built in cut out switch. If you dont turn the oil tap on the bike cannot be started!
Sorry. Reply was obviously to Hoogerbooger
cdsdorset: You are correct . I really should read all of the text helpfully offered. Many apologies. The combined tap/switch is a neat solution I hadn't heard about before. I would be temped that way if I didn't already have the Bri-tie.
Greenfield: many thanks for the pictures. I seem to have a little less room than you, but I think if I slightly extend the run length it'll fit more or less as you have. So glad to hear you are happy with it there. When changing the oil should I re-prime with oil the pipe section between the valve and the engine. Also wondering if it's sensible to add part of the oilfil via the rocker box ? ......and give it a good wait before turning the engine over ? ( I'm a bit of a novice...so if I'm being silly...just say !)
You can be assured that whatever i do I will be watching return to the tank like a hawk.
Try and make sure that there is oil downstream of the valve. I've never had a problem with air locks but theoretically it could be an issue. During fitting, make sure you fit it to the correct pipe and fill the lower section of the pipe with oil. Oil in the tank will fill the pipe above the valve. During future oil changes there should be no need to disturb the system below the valve.
These anti wet sumping valves have been around for many years so they're well tested.