Gents
Got back to the bike today and following forum advice managed some progress
Now, however, another issue has arisen that leaves me somewhat at a loss.
I have removed the rear chain oiler
It's a banjo connection (I lived most of my working life in hydraulics, so if this term is incorrect, apologies), however, having taken it apart and given it a quick wipe over, 2 things sprang to my attention;
1. The shouldered stud (In my case) is not drilled to allow oil to pass from the primary chain casing, down the bolt to the banjo
Bolt number; 21-5617 or stud no 21-1985
Neither are shown drilled, on the drawings I have (BSA Spares Catalogue 00-5138) or on the drgs on the Draganfly website
2 The hose end fitting on the banjo (chain oiler) onto which the hose is fitted, on my bike is either, not drilled, or, is filled with (hard or soft I'm not sure) solder.
Banjo (Chain oiler) number; 68-0383
Now, by my way of thinking there should be a way for the oil to get from the case to the chain.
Otherwise, what's the point?
The banjo fitting (oiler) is a very, very snug, I would describe it as almost an interference fit, on the stud (I have the 21-1985 stud fitted to my bike, now listed as unavailable), so there is no route for the oil to pass between the stud and the oiler
Am I fretting about the unimportant?
Hi,
I remember having one of these on my B40.
I think that there is clearance for the small amount of oil to pass to the banjo and out of the minute drilling in the soldered end of the pipe. It is very small hole, as is the one inside the case, and not much more than a pin hole but it is enough to stop the chain from running dry. To check if it is clear assemble the banjo on the case and see if some WD40 or car cleaner can get through from inside the primary case to drip out of the soldered exit.
Dave.
The way the oiler is supposed to work (from memory) is that there should be clearance between the bolt (21-5617) and the chain case hole and between the bolt and the hole through the banjo so that oil can seep from the chaincase into the banjo and then out of the outlet pipe. Clearly, there should be a hole through the outlet pipe into the banjo. The latter hole is small and someone (like me) may have blocked it to stop oil ending up on the rear tyre ::)
Hi,
I would think that the hole is small enough to only need the type of pricker used on Tilley lamps to keep it clean. I suspect that some owners though it was too small and made it a bit bigger hence oily rear tyre. I found that the chain stayed just oily enough and did last a long time.
The downside is that topping up the primary became more important.
Dave.
I've never been one for fitting chain oilers to bikes given that there are now effective spray-on lubes available. I am sure I've left them off any BSA bike I've restored and simply blanked off the hole through the chaincase using a sealing washer.
Hi,
I do not have the original oiler on either of my A65s. I use ATF in the primary and it is probably not suitable for a rear chain.
Currently I use a spray on one and a Scottoiler on the other. I may fit another Scottoiler as I do more miles on it.
Set correctly, a Scottoiler can give the chain and sprockets and very long life and even after riding through heavy rain for hours the chain is still properly lubed.
Not for everybody but it has proved a good thing for me.
Dave.
Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 27 Dec, 2022, 18:40
Hi,
I remember having one of these on my B40.
I think that there is clearance for the small amount of oil to pass to the banjo and out of the minute drilling in the soldered end of the pipe. It is very small hole, as is the one inside the case, and not much more than a pin hole but it is enough to stop the chain from running dry. To check if it is clear assemble the banjo on the case and see if some WD40 or car cleaner can get through from inside the primary case to drip out of the soldered exit.
Dave.
Thanks
I've used a magnifying glass and there is certainly solder in that small drilling.
Maybe a PO has repaired it and not bothered to redrill the oilway
I can drill it out (pillar drill and 1.65mm drill) but, there's no point if the bolt is not drilled.
If it is worth doing, I'm happy to do it
Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 28 Dec, 2022, 09:22
Hi,
I do not have the original oiler on either of my A65s. I use ATF in the primary and it is probably not suitable for a rear chain.
Currently I use a spray on one and a Scottoiler on the other. I may fit another Scottoiler as I do more miles on it.
Set correctly, a Scottoiler can give the chain and sprockets and very long life and even after riding through heavy rain for hours the chain is still properly lubed.
Not for everybody but it has proved a good thing for me.
Dave.
Dave, my plan is to bring the bike back to as close to original as possible.
As my daughter (who seems to think she's my mum) has expressed some serious concern at the idea of me out on a bike, I will do as much as I can to the bike, sell it and buy another one to work on.
TBF, daughter has a point, I have MS and whilst I know I can ride, a weakened right hand side means I may, may, be putting myself and others in peril (not quite sure how).
Me in peril . . . . . that's OK, I can live with that
Have read all the above, a decision is made.
I'll drill out the oiler and turn down the OD of the stud, enoigh to allow oil to migrate to the oiler banjo.
I shouldn't need to take more than 0.004" or 0.005" off the diameter
Thanks all
I have just dug out one of these oilers and measured it up.
The ID of the banjo is about 7.5 mm compared with the 1/4" bolts diameter of 6.2 mm - hence plenty of clearance for oil between them.
The outlet hole on mine is a little bigger than 0.6 mm but less than 1 mm.
Quote from: Spaceman on 28 Dec, 2022, 19:47
I have just dug out one of these oilers and measured it up.
The ID of the banjo is about 7.5 mm compared with the 1/4" bolts diameter of 6.2 mm - hence plenty of clearance for oil between them.
The outlet hole on mine is a little bigger than 0.6 mm but less than 1 mm.
Thanks for the above . . . .useful
The bolt v banjo clearance is closer to slack Alice than clearance, but, given how the oiling works it is needed I guess.
I wonder how the oil passes from the chaincase to the banjo, with no apparent path past the threaded section . . . . .just a thought.
As for the banjo tail drilling . . . . . . Less than 1mm; yikes, I'll have to look at my drill stock and hope my pillar drill and small drill chuck will suffice, I'm pretty sure 1.65mm od is the smallest drill I have
Just to remind me how this is supposed to work, the picture shows the pair of holes at the back of the B25 chaincase with the lower one untapped and with a slot cut into it to allow oil to enter after being thrown on to it from the clutch. This hole will be bored out from the back with a diameter of about 7.5 mm up to the depth of the slot.
For the B25 in question, I am still not clear where the problem lies. I assume the banjo ID is about 7.5 mm and, if a 1/4" bolt or stud is being used, this should have a OD of no more than 6.35 mm. This clearance corresponds to 50 sq mm which is available for oil to seep through.
I can only go by the oiler I found in my spares box which has a very small hole in it. My drill set has a 1 mm drill in it but it would be very difficult to use this in practice without breaking. In this case, I would honestly doubt someone has used solder to block the hole - if they had, all you would need to do is to heat the oiler up to a few hundred degrees to melt it and to then poke it through with a bit of wire. If it's not solder blocking it, you should be able to just poke the blockage through - in fact, this is what I had to do to mine!