I've pushed the boat out a bit and bought a belt drive for my A65; it was expensive but it's a work of art! However, upon fitting it today, I've come across a problem. The clutch pulley is not in alignment with the engine pulley by quite a margin, allowing the belt to overhang the edge of the pulley by about 1/8", give or take. I've already used a quite thick distance piece between the drive side bearing and the pulley, plus about 90 thou of shims. I could possibly add another 50 or 60 thou, but as you'll see in the pictures, the nut is (as designed) already close to the end of the crankshaft. I'm considering the possibility of recessing the rotor so that I can turn up an adequately thick spacer and move the rotor out a little (although I will first ask the people at Lucas if it is safe to do so) which could push the engine pulley out sufficiently. I was wondering if anyone else had had this problem and how it was overcome?
As always, thanks in advance, people.
Hi,
I only used the spacers and studs supplied, no other shims, the rotor position was further back similar to yours and worked okay.
Bets wishes...
is the spacer fitted the correct way around? is there a chamfer on one side that if fitting incorrectly, will foul on a radius?
otherwise
I would have a word with Bob, I found him very helpful.
I have fitted several of these and they all fit the same on each bike I have done, even on the A10 converted crank...
You did leave behind the spacer that the oil seal runs on? (which goes between the pulley and the bearing) It isn't unheard of to add some shims to get the belt aligned exactly where it needs to be but in either case it always covers the basket.
Another thing to check is to remove the woodruff key from the main shaft and fit the pulley.... Does the belt fit over the basket properly now? Its amazing how much the woodruff key will foul proper seating of the basket... You can choose to run without it if you wished, it plays now "key" in driving the main shaft, that is done by the taper.
The basket fits nicely over the woodruff key, onto the taper. The distance piece and about 90 thou of shims are on the crank and when everything is in place, the crank nut has about one pitch of the screw thread protruding through. I found that without the shims, the pulley fouled the casting, but if anything I need more shims/distance piece. I could add a few more shims, maybe even a spacer, so that the crank nut will not be fully on the shaft, which will give me maybe up to 100 thou, but then I'd worry the nut isn't on properly. You can see in the pictures how far off the belt is. I'm even considering reboring the taper to a few thou bigger, which will then reposition the basket further into the primary case, but that'll be the last thing I try as I'm not sure precisely what the taper is although it wouldn't be difficult to find out!