can I di.sconnect the heat sink when I fit electronic ignition on my B44ss
I assume you are talking about the heat sink underneath the lower fork yoke? If so, that is for the Zener Diode which is part of the bike's electrical charging system and needs to be there whether or not you fit electric ignition!
thanks Spaceman, the electrics on this USA import are a nightmare
Hi John A,
If you want to replace the Zener heat sink you can use a regulator/rectifier. This replaces the old type rectifier as well and makes for, I think, a tidier bike.
Dave.
Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 29 Sep, 2022, 14:34
Hi John A,
If you want to replace the Zener heat sink you can use a regulator/rectifier. This replaces the old type rectifier as well and makes for, I think, a tidier bike.
Dave.
And better voltage regulation.
If you replace the heat sink with a rectifier, then it won't be an original BSA ?
Hi,
Yes, it will not be original but almost certainly more reliable and practical if you are going to use your bike much.
If going for a concours restoration then keep the Zener and heat sink but make sure that you do not have any stainless fasteners or chrome instead of zink/cad plate, no led lights, no higher power than original headlight etc.
At the end of the day it down to the individual to have their bike the way they want it. Personally, I like everything from an accurate restoration to a highly customised individual bike. The frame and engine is what makes it a BSA.
Dave.
The original Zener diode had the benefit of being mounted on a heat sink in the optimum position for being cooled by the bike's slip stream. Unless you convert to a 3-phase alternator, I'm not sure a modern Rectifier/Regulator (RR) gives any advantage either in terms of power output or reliability, especially if you mount it under the saddle where cooling is less than ideal. However, the availability of replacement Zener diodes was an issue a few years ago when I had to replace one although this problem may since gone away?
As far as I know, new zeners are still unavailable. If you have a working zener there is no real need for having a rec/reg except for tidying up the wiring.
Had to replace all wiring on a B40WD. The Boyer ignition tucked in between the plates just behind the steering head. A reg/reg fitted to the cross bar holding tank front together. Wires from alternator to reg/rec tied to frame front tube where a new MC2 replacement condenser is also tied. Also a three position key switch up in the front under the tank. one position off, one on and the third emergency starting with dead battery. Everything easily accessible and hard to see unless you are a midget.
And of course a lot of earth wires as relying on the frame only as a ground return to the battery is error prone. Only the rear lamp uses mudguard and frame for earth.
Both my B44VS has their original electrical system working flawless.