1966 Spitfire, the clutch was ok then on a run it started dragging,parked it up and went to it the next day and the clutch is not clearing at all. There is also a terrible cracking noise when pulling the clutch in. Had the timing side down to check the ball bearing lift mechanism and tried a cable but still a terrible noise. Now in about the clutch but not sure what to look for. Any thoughts?
clutch centre nut can loosen, it usually starts to drag first!
Have you checked the clutch mechanism adjustment and the adjuster in the middle of the clutch pressure plate? Worth ruling out the simple things first. If not the lift mechanism, it will probably be obvious what the problem is after you've taken off the primary cover and looked at what the clutch is doing..
Hi,
If, as Derek says, the nut has come loose the clutch will be quite wobbly and all the adjustment on the cable and lever will be gone as the distance to the pressure plate has increased. A bit obvious but was there enough oil in the primary case?
Operate the clutch with the cover off - engine not running - and turn the engine over with the kick start. As you pull the lever and then release it try to determine where noise is coming from. A broken spring could cause the clutch to drag and also make a noise as the pressure plate is lifted
Then start by removing the pressure plate so that the nut can be seen and checked. Also check the clutch push rod is free in the main shaft. Take the plates out and keep them in order and facing the way they came out - the plates do to some extent bed in to each other. As you take them out inspect for burrs on the tabs and then grooves in the slots of the centre and the basket.
Let us know how you get on.
Dave.
Cheers Derek but the noise is without the engine running, pull the clutch and a terrible cracking noise,.
Spaceman I have the primary off but nothing obvious, not stripped the clutch out yet but like you thought with the noise it would be obvious. Have it all to bits tomorrow.
I also assumed the noise was there when the engine was running! Unless you can see the clutch basket moving when you pull the clutch lever in, it sounds as though it is more likely coming from the lift mechanism. Can you hear which side of the engine the noise is coming from?
The noise is without the engine running, pull the clutch and there is a terrible cracking noise.
When you pull in the clutch lever, does the pressure plate lift normally and is the mechanism smooth in operation or is it jerky?
With the timing cover also off, it would be interesting to know if you can hear which side of the engine the noise is coming from?
Hi,
Assuming that as you had the timing cover off initially, this proved to be in good order with smooth and silent operation and a bit of grease applied. If this is the case then the culprit must be on the drive side.
As this problem seemed to occur quite suddenly it sounds like something has failed. As mentioned before, strip the clutch back and check each part as it comes off.
Dave.
OK all in bits now, one of the spring adjuster nuts had wound off a bit but when I stripped the baskets, the driven plates and spacer plates came out in one lump, they were all stuck together, really stuck. Everything was dry so I think this may be the issue. A question though, at the timing side there is a ball bearing in the end of the push rod but not one at the clutch end, should there be 2 ball bearings? The push rod is dimpled at both ends.
Hi,
The adjuster in the pressure plate usually has a ball bearing in it. It does not necessarily turn but provides a working surface for the hardened end of the pushrod.
Dave.
Thanks Dave.
if the rod is dimpled at both ends, its probably been turned around at some time in its past.
have you tried measuring the rod ? it could be worn on both ends speeding up wear as a thinner face of contact.
if the plates were stuck together, what oil were you using in the primary?
Quote from: Willie Dee on 19 Sep, 2022, 14:50
OK all in bits now, one of the spring adjuster nuts had wound off a bit but when I stripped the baskets, the driven plates and spacer plates came out in one lump, they were all stuck together, really stuck. Everything was dry so I think this may be the issue. A question though, at the timing side there is a ball bearing in the end of the push rod but not one at the clutch end, should there be 2 ball bearings? The push rod is dimpled at both ends.
The parts book only shows a ball bearing on the timing side. If you think about it, the push rod will normally rotate with the gearbox mainshaft and clutch and therefore the only place you need a ball bearing to act as a bearing surface is at the clutch operating lever on the timing side.
Hi,
Yes, no ball bearing on the clutch end. I was thinking about A10/B33 etc. with a ball bearing captive in the adjuster.
Dave.
Chaz, only had the bike a couple of weeks.
https://shop.srmclassicbikes.com/sites/default/files/downloads/Clutch%20pushrod%20info%20BSA%20&%20Triumph%20models_1.pdf
have a look at the above for lengths depending on whats fitted.
maybe the primary was run dry and thats caused the plates to overheat and stick themselves together. not a lot of oil in there but needs some.
also check the teeth on the plates and recesses on the basket for wear, as movement there will add noise as oversize plates will not operate squarely.
An update, changed the friction plates, set the springs with the lever tied in to ensure it was an even lift. Checked the engine kicked over and did not slip, checked it stalled when against a wall and it all looked good. Built it all up and went for a test. Everything was good until I gunned it to pass a couple of cars ( this was about a mile from my garage) and the clutch slipped. I am hoping it is because I had too much oil on the friction plates ( I let them soak overnight in ATF) and it will settle down with some miles in. Not sure what the cracking noise was from but it definitely had something to do with the clutch being all glued together. Thanks for all the advice.