OK another gasket question,
Do I need two gaskets with the oil strainer on the bottom of the engine, one above the strainer and one below? If only one does it go above or below the strainer?
Regards,
Ian
In needs two - one above and one below.
Ive got two on the B40 one each side and it still weeps, Ive tried 3 different types of sealer as well!!
How annoying! I only ordered one! Back to ebay then .... And thanks for the help.
Hi,
The parts book illustration does shows two gaskets so they go either side of the gauze. Is it possible that the pressed/stamped cover may not be that flat whereas the machined face on the crankcase is more likely to be dead flat. It is worth checking the cover for flatness and although probably tried already, I would use Blue Hylomar for a sealant.
Dave.
Second gasket now on order and yes, I will use sealant with it. Not sure if it is Hylomar, I will look, but it is definitely blue.
Regards,
Ian
An update,
I went to put the oil strainer back on the bottom of the engine today, with lashings of blue sealant (Loctitie), which I later regretted.
A couple of issues came up:
1/ The edge of the cover was hard up against the frame of the bike. This can't be good, I hate the think of the effect of vibration. I might grind a tiny bit of the edge of the cover.
2/ This is the biggy. One of the bolts stripped its thread as before. Dohh! Maybe this is why the thing was leaking. I tried the same trick which worked last time, a brand new bolt with a sharp thread cut to the right length with my dremel, but no joy this time. SO it looks like I will have to get out my shiny new helicoil kit. However the thread in question is right under the engine. I am not sure if I could get the drill under there and it is at an odd angle to boot. So does this mean that it is engine out time? If so I could see this becoming a much bigger project. Thoughts please?
Regards,
Ian
I would recommend tipping the bike on to its side to make this possible - I don't think I would even attempt trying to drill up from underneath. With Helicoiling, you have to be accurate drilling and tapping and you can't do that unless you've got good access!
Hi,
The obvious best practise is to fit a helicoil to take the standard size stud. However, if you want to put this off to a later date then here are two 'roadside' bodges to try.
1) Sometimes the holes for studs are not threaded all the way through/to the bottom so cutting a bit more thread and use a slightly longer stud may give enough bite and use a semi-permanent thread locker to secure it.
2) So long as it does not compromise future use of the correct size helicoil, tap the hole out to the next size up. If the existing thread is very worn a good tap will easily cut the aluminium.
A bit of a bodge but either will work until you need to strip the engine for something more serious.
Dave.
Quote from: Barnsey on 01 May, 2022, 12:56
An update,
I went to put the oil strainer back on the bottom of the engine today, with lashings of blue sealant (Loctitie), which I later regretted.
A couple of issues came up:
1/ The edge of the cover was hard up against the frame of the bike. This can't be good, I hate the think of the effect of vibration. I might grind a tiny bit of the edge of the cover.
2/ This is the biggy. One of the bolts stripped its thread as before. Dohh! Maybe this is why the thing was leaking. I tried the same trick which worked last time, a brand new bolt with a sharp thread cut to the right length with my dremel, but no joy this time. SO it looks like I will have to get out my shiny new helicoil kit. However the thread in question is right under the engine. I am not sure if I could get the drill under there and it is at an odd angle to boot. So does this mean that it is engine out time? If so I could see this becoming a much bigger project. Thoughts please?
Regards,
Ian
are you talking B40?
the one Ive been working on was close to the frame, looking at the parts book , there should be spacers either side of the engine betwen case and frame. looks like if they are missed out the frame can be pulled in making the sump plate close to the frame. Ive now managed to get a washer or two in to space out and the plate does get accessed easier.
secondly do you have bolts or studs fitted? studs better as if fitted tight enough they dont need to come out , just remove washers and nuts means less wear and tear on case threads.
Thanks for that. It is a C15 1963, but maybe there should be spacers which have been left out. Studs are a good idea. I wonder if I could loctite studs into the existing threads?
Regards,
Ian
just had a look on the parts book and Drags parts also for the B40. neither bike shows spacers as parts but when discussing my fitting on here , I think a picture was posted showing spacers fitted. As the sump plate needs to be removed for servicing, filter cleaning and wet sumping its best to have studs with nuts removable.
the parts book does show studs and nuts, presumably for the reason of wear in the cases.
OK Thanks! I have just put in an order for studding, nuts and washers via Mr EBay. Watch this space........
Ian