BSA Owners' Club Workshop Discussions

Does anyone know the correct part number for the (2 pipe) oil manifold oil seals for my 1965 A65 Lightning please?

The parts book shows 68- 0598, but when I order them on-line, they come up as 68-0588...... Which might account for my constant oil leak....

Many thanks,
Dave.

Hi,
    Part 68-0598 is the X- ring or square section, https://www.ebay.com/itm/332079417426

    Part 68-0588 is an O-ring, https://draganfly.co.uk/?s=68-0588&id=151727

Depending on which oil manifold you have, the 1965 year specifies a (X-ring) or the 1966/1967 which specifies an (O-ring).

The O-ring part number also fits the 3 pipe manifolds from 1968 onward.

Best wishes...

Hi Dave,
              It maybe prudent to read the BSA service sheet 139, dated September 1966.

It recommends fitting the later 3 pipe manifold to improve camshaft lubrication. It is an easy fit and you wont have the issue with which seals to use in the future.

Best wishes...

That's excellent Bess, thanks very much.

Now to show what an eejit I am, what's the best way to see the service sheets please?

Thanks again,
Dave.

Hi Dave,
             From the BSA owners club main page, hoover your cursor over "club services", left click on members area and "Login",

Third box along, click on "Service sheets",
click on "home",
scroll down, click on "Unit Twins",
second page click on, Number 139

Best wishes...

What can I say Bess.... Thank you.


I've just bought a three pipe manifold off eBay.... At the very least it's a swap from my original (and not entirely free from suspicion) manifold.....

Your help is greatly appreciated.

Best regards,
Dave.

Hi Dave,
             The 3 pipe unit is well worth the investment, hope it works out okay.

Best wishes...

A note attached to a brick will be winging itself through a window of your choosing if it fails......

Seriously mate, much appreciated.
Regards,
Dave.

Hi Dave when fitting my 3 branch union the feed and return pipes where very close together in order to fit the hoses I held the pipes in the middle and splayed them open (holding my breath  they didn't snap but they are very hard) also I cut one pipe shorter than the other to stagger the joints also checked I had the correct bolt, hope this might help to keep it oiltight. Roy

Thanks Roy, I do like the idea of separating them slightly (anything to make fitting the pipes easier), and staggering the connections a bit too.

Thanks mate

Regards,
Dave

I fitted the 3 pipe upgrade to my 1962 A50. Drags just supplied O rings to seal and they work well.
I had to adjust ( bend) the pipes to fit. They were too close together and also snagged on my frame so needed quite a bit of fetling. Not sure if the hose pipes need changing as the 2 main pipes are a different size to the older manifold. I just stretched the one pipe over the larger one on the manifold.
I had trouble getting a good seal with my early manifold with paper gasket.

Re the pipes Adrian, I'll pretty much be starting from scratch with new rubber piping.

'Adjusting' will be done on similar lines to those mentioned....

You mentioned a paper gasket... Is that for sealing the manifold to crankcase? It's just that I didn't see one mentioned in the parts book.....
Could that possibly be my problem?

Thanks you for your suggestions mate.

Best regards,
Dave.

The paper or gasket material gasket was used to seal early oil pipes. You don't need one when O rings are used. I've always found the early set up a bit hit and miss re sealing. I also had a slight weep from a similar set up on my B40. O ring system seems much much better.

Good enough for me Adrian... Thanks.

I should be getting the three pipe manifold over the next couple of days and I already have the gasket and 'o' rings....

However I'm taking a short break from the project..... until I feel a bit more like having a go......


Grrrr.

Thanks for all your help folks.

Well I've removed the timing case, identified that the speedo drive has a piece broken off (new part needed), the gasket looks like it has been soaked in oil, and still the oil comes out (filled three large pot noodle pots so far).

Have now ordered an anti sump valve along with the new timing case gasket, 3 pipe oil manifold and oil seals (I've got some oil seals that are slightly thicker than any of the 'correct' ones. I've subjected one to my heat gun and it's now sitting at the bottom of the oil in my drip tray- to see how it fares) Oh, and i've bought some 9mm oil pipe for the new manifold (the 10mm tube I had was a simple slide in fit- which just didn't seem anywhere near tight enough to prevent a leak)

Still got to find a speedo drive shaft to fit the oil pump......


I'll start the rebuilding process..... eventually....


One step forward, ten back....

Sorry for whining......

Dave.

Hi Dave,
             Do you mean a tacho drive to fit the oil pump?

https://draganfly.co.uk/shop/76455/tachometer-drive-pin/#68-0586

Best wishes...

Wow Bess, you raised a bunch of questions for me there....... (thanks by the way...)

Firstly, and because I had the speedo cable plugged into this oil pump drive, I assumed it was the speedo drive... (you've now proved that assumption to be wrong as I have found what I'm looking for; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263583509007 'tacho drive' )
(cables need to be reassigned to correct instruments...... Dohhh!)

Secondly Bess, I checked up on various photographs and figured speedometer on the left, tachometer on the right.... Is that correct?

The piccies show the broken tang (or whatever the proper term might be...)

Thanks very much for your guidance (as ever),

Dave.

I contacted Dave at Brit Bikes and he confirmed that it was the correct one for my bike.....


So I bought it....


Thanks again for your help Bess.

Dave.

Hi Dave,
             Pleased to have helped, you are correct when you say speedo on the LHS. Those tangs are normally broken when a screwdriver is used to rotate the pumps. I would suggest, when you have the pump out, test it with the broken drive and better still replace it with new cast iron body:

https://www.classicbikepartscheshire.com/engine-transmission-c37/oil-gauges-pumps-pipes-pressure-release-c55/hepolite-oil-pump-for-bsa-a7-a10-a50-a65-cnc-manufactured-made-in-uk-p3222/s3277?cid=GBP&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4eaJBhDMARIsANhrQABrf_HrIchLqi8yGHbqJv-WmesiEkz94o3Zz1K4nH8sH6D6Lp-npzwaAuUEEALw_wcB

or an SRM replacement.

Best wishes...

Thanks again Bess.
Unfortunately I don't have sufficient mazooma to run to that pump.

Mind, this pump drive seems to rotate smoothly enough and the two pump gears look clean and operate smoothly so I'll bear with it.

Thanks again,
Dave.

An update:
Still not quite there but I've now got the oil pipes and fittings in place, and what a maul that's been...

Fifteen pipe clips to hold, what is essentially an oil tank inlet and outlet pipe.....

I fitted an anti wet sumping valve on the engine inlet, with all the necessary pipe 'size' adapters .

And the return pipe went via the 'spin off' filter via more pipe 'size' adapters.

I've now got the tacho drive (Brit Bikes (ebay)) and will build the pump back up and mount it (New gasket) before re-fitting the timing cover (and all its internal accoutrements) (Also a new gasket)

I've now got around 8 manifold 'O' rings, but they all seem too thin to be capable of squishing down sufficiently to form a proper seal, so I found a couple in my 'O' ring stash and, after introducing one to my heat gun and then submerging it in oil for a couple of weeks, I've used two of them instead (2.5 mm thick instead of 2mm)

No leaks at the moment....... But that may be more to do with having no more oil in the tank than to my plumbing skills.


Incidentally, one of the lower timing cover threads was protruding from the case which might, or might not, have caused the perpetual leak... (although it might have unscrewed as I took the case off...)


Anyway, I've sort of stopped sulking and will be back to work on the bike, in between painting the new conservatory walls, and fitting some floor boards......