:) :) :)
For a long time now I have favoured powder coating on frames.
I have just started on another project A65 and this time I'm going for a paint (enamel??) option. Haven't used paint for years so thoughts please.
Mike 8) 8) 8) 8)
from my point of view,we used to have access to the works paint shop up until it closed, then I had to go elsewhere, this would have been around time powder coating was beginning.
liked the wet paint as it was back to me a day or two later any problems and it could be touched up easy. one time a white frame was left too high in the oven and went brown, easy to re do, wet coat will go over filler and non metallic areas.
the powder coating seems to take a week to get back, my most recent A50 frame has been a nightmare, pot holes where the powder couldnt take, when the lacquer coat went wrong the whole frame had to be blasted again and redone, this then caused problems with the braze, in the end it was blasted 3 times . I worry about the thickness of the frame in places now. wet paint could have had the lacquer stripped off leaving the base coat.
my prevous frame and associated parts cost around £250 to powder coat, the latest one, same frame colour rose to £400. only 2 years between them. my custom wet paint tank and rear mudguard £400. The tank had a couple of problems, one started to peel around the filler, he hadnt blanked around to seal and once where I chipped it, both times easily repaired without needing to blast everything off.
Hi,
I have had one frame powder coated and I would not do it again. Anywhere the powder coat is put under pressure it breaks off leaving an edge for rust to get under. Where there is no pressure it seems ok but not easy to touch up and I am now thinking that rust could be creeping along underneath. This frame has only done about 5,000 miles
My other A65 looks like it has the remains of the original paint and even where the colour has faded or worn through there is no rust and it just looks worn. Well over 100,000 miles on this one.
A10 done with a two pack epoxy before my wife got it and it too has covered over 100,000 miles. It still looks like new with very few chips and no sign of rust.
I think preparation is key to getting a good finish but it is in the hands of whoever does the job.
I have seen videos of powder coated items being hit with a hammer with no resulting damage but has anyone tried this in real life?
Dave.
:) :) :)
In truth up til now I have not had a problem with powder, but it has become very expensive. The points about rust creep etc are very valid.
So I shall go for the paint. I wonder if it really needs doing at all but..........That will always be "I wish I had"
Mike 8) 8) 8)
the T100 had a red frame so had to be done, the A50 was yellow so had to be done now black with sparkle and black respectively. The B40
is, as was factory. its not a show bike but an every day run around . I had the T100 powder coated , when it came to the A50 I asked a local 2 pack sprayer , his quote was not much more than the powder coater but time a problem, with wet 2 pack I tend to worry about runs. The B40 has had the same wet paint since 1965 and was a flat tracker in America , so on dirt or shale and has lasted the ravages of time.
From bare metal I use etch primer first https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274789857381?hash=item3ffac07865:g:dmAAAOSwDWRglj2d
For top coat I use 4 coats of Simoniz gloss Black engine enamel for anything I want to paint gloss Black. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144114312324?hash=item218de1e484:g:apsAAOSw-XBgMTGW
Finish, straight from the can is a very deep lustrous glossy Black that will match most spray guns that I've used, and it's pretty tough. (in theory it dries in 24 hours.... I'd be inclined to leave it a tad longer before mauling it about (2/ 3 days))
Most of the powdercoated problems listed seem to be related to the powdercoaters more than the system.
I have used Redditch powdercoaters for 30+ years and never had a problem.
:) :) :)
I spoke to the paint man earlier to ask how much. His reply---go for powder coat.
I spoke to powder coat man and discussed the points raised here. Good powder coat is a perfectly satisfactory method. Well he would say that
The heat generated by the process will dry out the inside of the tubes. Drill two small holes at the lowest point of the frame so that any future moisture can drain. rust creep under the coating is a very minor problem providing it is primed with zinc.
Now I am no further forward. Like Cds said its probably more the operators than the system.
Mike 8) 8) 8) 8)
Head scratching time. I guess you pays yer money and takes yer pick
as you say, take your pick.
my recent problem comes from the same powder coaters Ive used for the last 20 odd years, the last 2 bikes apparently done by the same crew. same blaster, same painter, same oven same lacquer sprayer. its the only problem Ive had in thistime on mine and customers bikes, I suppose there has to be one.
same applies to the engine, same machinist, crank grinder etc for the last nearly 40 years. covid has held the latest rebuild up by a year, grinder has been shut down and now has a backlog.
:) :) :) :)
I just looked up Stove Enamelers. And they are saying that PC is more durable and no more rust prone than any other finish. They actually recommend PC.
Taking pick time.
Mike 8) 8) 8) 8)