I'm just wondering about the viability of maybe getting the original rims on my '71 A65 re-chromed.
I've been hearing horror stories about the cost of electroplating these days.
Maybe new stainless rims would be a better (and maybe cheaper) option ?
You may well find that they won't touch the rims. They need to polish the rims prior to chroming and the holes for the spoke nipples tear their polishing mops to shreds.
I had some rims chromed a few years ago and they were about £100 each. Quality of the chroming depends on how much effort they put into polishing the rims to begin with. I found mine were well covered but some pitting still showing. I could probably have bought s/s rims for the same price but I wanted to retain the original Jones rims.
Depending on how badly corroded your existing rims are, have you thought about trying to polish them up yourself - I have had good results with a Dremel + pads + Solvol Autosol. If you're taking the rims off anyway there is nothing to lose and you might be surprised by the results.
Hi,
If you haven't done so already it may be worth checking the internal face of the rim. If the outside is losing its chrome the inside is usually worse which maybe the deciding factor on how to proceed.
I have fitted aluminum and stainless steel rims with success, I don't care about originality, safety and terotechnology is more important to me.
There is a good article in a previous Star mag by Julian, which is interesting.
Best wishes...
Thanks for all the replies.
If re-chroming is £100+ a rim, then stainless rims/spokes are definately looking the best option.
And if anything is wrong with them, you've got the Sale of Goods Act etc to fall back on.
I've had some bad experiences with chrome platers in the past.
I'm not desperate for 100% originality, so I'll go for the simple option
:) :) :)
I would go straight for rebuild. Either Chrome or Stainless or Aluminium. choice is yours. Spokes I always opt for galvanised. (the only spokes I have ever had break were stainless).
Plenty of good rebuilders around depends where you are but someone will recommend a "wheel man". We have a good one if you live anywhere near Salisbury.
They aint cheap now no matter where you have 'em done. But definitely comparable to Chrome.
Mike 8) 8) 8)
The one near Salisbury is very good.
:) :) :)
Details if they are any use to you.
Company is called BRICKWOOD Fone Salisbury 01722-712701. It may be "Old Brickwood"
Mike 8) 8) 8)
I used Devon Rim Co. Valtru Stainless on my Thunderbolt and my Ariel and am very happy with them. The set of rims and stainless spokes cost me around £135 each inc. delivery. I am no wheelbuilder so I got Martin at Corfe Wheels to lace them up and he charged £50 per wheel and did an excellent job. The beauty of stainless is they will never turn out like the originals a kind of fit and forget if you like.
As such, I always budget £350-£400 for a pair of wheels as part of any restoration. It's worth it. No hassle and they set the finished bike off nicely.
I recently posted a topic on spokes and removed it for now as I wanted to make sure I have a complete story to tell. I intend to repost the experience I've had recently during my upgrade to stainless very soon. One thing I would say is make sure that if you have a TLS hub the spokes are bent to the correct profile. You will have problems with the fit of spokes from one of the manufacturers and the customer service is not as expected. I and some other people on here have experienced this issue with the same supplier. I'm in the process of sorting out correct spokes for mine.
I had some Kawasaki KH rims rechromed at quality chrome in Hull, they did a really good job and you could still see the stamping, The price was £140 per rim, if you don't mind not having original then stainless work out more cost effective in my experience.
I've never had a problem with rebuilding wheels myself, I got let down with a pair of Kawasaki wheels back in 1977 and ended up respoking them myself.
Having said that I've only ever used genuine rims and spokes, not pattern stuff, and I appreciate that poorly made ill fitting parts can turn an easy job into a living hell.
I'm still amazed how many people can't seem to understand that the rim should be pierced to suit the hub shape and consequent spoke pattern.
I've seen loads of wheels built up with wrongly pierced rims forced onto hubs by bending the spokes etc.
Makes you wonder if a so called "professional" built them.
I'm still sort of leaning towards the "Valtru" kits.
Probably not as strong as galvanised spokes, but then again, my old A65 is only a medium weight bike with a lowly 40 Bhp or so.
:) :) :) :)
I say this a bit tongue in cheek and not to insult anyone.
Why hire a professional when you can just as easily and cheaply screw it up yourself.
Mike 8) 8) 8) 8)
:) :) :) :)
Of course the alternative is equally true
"All the gear and no idea"
Mike 8) 8) 8) 8)
When I removed the tyres from my TR25w rims it was surprising how much rust came out of the holes in the rim. After 40 yrs the rust on the inside of the rim was probably worse than on the outside so wouldn't have risked rechroming.
Something that is easily forgotten in the eagerness to get started is to take some photo's of the spoke pattern and measure the offset from the rim to the drum face.
I would check the spokes correspond with the originals on receiving them, if there is any problem then Distance Selling Regs apply and you are not at the mercy of the sellers "goodwill". There seem to be three 2 week rules in the Regs.
Alan
A word of warning.
I had a rear tyre blow out at speed with my wife riding pillion. Thankfully we managed to stay upright but it was a very scary expeience. Thank goodness it wasn't a front that went.
The puncture was caused by flaking chrome cuased by rust inside the rim cutting the inner tube.
The wheels and chrome looked fine from outside.
my worry with rechroming is what you cant see. you can hear it rattling around inside but how much or how thin is the inside.
the other thing to consider, is that stripping involves acid, its strong enough to strip chrome, so its also eating away a layer of rust inside.
I know from experience plating aluminium, the process involves eating into the surface.
with solid parts like levers and kick starts, its not a problem as you can see the surface and polish out imperfections but folded parts likw rims, you cant see.
I've been doing a bit more research on stainless rims and spokes.
Apparently there is a theoretical corrosion issue between stainless steel and aluminium.
There's mention of chromed brass spoke nipples being used on alloy laced rims like Borrani or Akront.
So what about the other end of the spokes where they are held in the hubs ?
I've never heard of it being an issue, but in theory it's a corrosion trap.