Looking for a bit of advice here please. I recently refitted my outer timing cover (people might remember I had problems with the kickstart oil seal.) I made sure when I fitted the casing that the clutch actuator arm was at the one o'clock position (viewed from above, ie sticking outwards slightly) with the rack at the bottom of its hole. Then on the other side of the bike I fitted the clutch plates, springs and and the little central adjuster screw (screwed in until met the pushrod, backed off 1/4 turn and nipped up the locking nut.) I've just gone to re-attach the clutch cable to the clutch actuator arm only to find the arm appears to be jammed in the one o'clock position. Why would that be? Am I missing something obvious? Phil.
Sorry, sorted. I'd expected to be able to move it directly by hand. It works when the cable is attached to the lever. Phil
More leverage using the handlebar lever.
Yes. Always been a little bit stiff though, even after new cable, oiled, suitably routed, rod appears okay. Don't know what it could be. Phil
Hi Phil,
I had a similar problem on my C15. I don't know if yours is the same but mine was down to play and alignment in the actual arm. Mine had a thread on the end which if not in the right orientation and tight made the action stiff. There was a was a thin spacer under the shoulder which I lapped to tight and aligned
Thanks Rick, but yours looks completely different from mine (see photo.) Phil
No problem Phil,
Even though they're different, the principles are the same i.e. no lost motion and good alignment. I appreciate you spend a lot of time and care when working on your bike so can't really suggest anything else. I assume the cable path is routed smoothly.
Just another thought, the clutch lever on the handlebars is functioning smoothly?
I think so. Except, as I say, it's a bit stiff when operating the cable. Not awful, but a bit stiffer than I'd like. Newish cable, lubed when fitted, routed suitably. Bit of a mystery I might have to live with for now. Phil
Yes, it may well improve with use.
10/10 for effort and perserverence as always
Is the clutch lever / cable stiff or the clutch action heavy?
The clutch springs only need to be tensioned enough to prevent slipping and the more you screw in the adjusters the heavier (stiffer?) the action will be.
One way to check is, start the engine, put it into first and put the front wheel against a wall. Then let the clutch out and if it stalls the springs are tensioned enough.
I don't know how to tell the difference really, but I'm guessing it's the clutch action that's s bit stiff. I've tightened the springs so the undersides of the nut heads are 1/8" proud. Can't start the engine at the moment as the tank is away being lined. Maybe I'll try backing the screws off a little bit and see if operating the clutch lever is then easier. Phil
Good point re clutch adjustment. Also when you're checking the clutch (if you didn't do so) pull the clutch in and kick the engine over. Check that the clutch plate assembly is running true and nip or loosen the screws to get it true. You could rig up a simple pointer as an aid. Bring it into contact with the clutch operated and see that it's true as it rotates.
I had the same thing happen to my C15, like a numpty I over tightened the clutch lever making it very stiff.
Lever connection seems okay. I've just loosened the springs a bit, having first rigged up a pointer (see photo), but I don't notice any difference in stiffness when operating the lever. Maybe I'm expecting too much in terms of ease of operation. I'll see if I can get a second opinion sometime on whether it's unduly stiff. When loosening the spring nuts, it occurred to me that as the nuts might well tend to vibrate loose until the pip meets the end of the spring, then tightening or loosening the nuts can only really be done with confidence by a full turn or nothing (am I making sense?). Phil
Hi Phil,
I can only comment on my C15 clutch. When I got the bike it was very stiff and the lever moved in jerks. After I'd carried out my rebuild etc it was as smooth as silk and totally effortless. Sorry if that's not what you wanted to hear.
Are your clutch plate (tangs) and clutch basket matching slots in good condition?
Chainwheel is new. I checked for burrs on the slots/tangs and cleaned them up with a file.
One thing I've just noticed when checking the plates are running true: there is a slight metallic hollow rubbing sound as the plates turn. I guess that's the plates rubbing slightly? It's only slight, but does it mean the springs are too tight, or is it normal?
Phil
Don't worry about the noise. It's probably just a bit of drag as it's not spinning quickly. Centrifugal force should take care of that.
At least you have a 4 spring clutch rather than the dreaded 6 spring. >:(
There are 2 spring strengths available, the softer ones are 57-1560 (try montysclassicmotorcyclesshop.co.uk at 6 quid a set)
I slacken off the adjuster nuts until the clutch slips when trying to kick the engine over, then tighten a couple of turns and try the riding into the wall trick until it is OK. If you have a dial indicator it doesn't harm to try and get the lift as even as possible.
The pip on the adjuster nuts isn't going to make that much of a difference if they do turn a bit.
Do people agree that any meaningful adjustment less than a full turn is not feasible because the nut will loosen until the pip meets the spring again? Phil
Don't worry about it Phil. The pressure from the spring should keep all as is.
I also remembered today of a bike I had with a difficult clutch. I'd set it up as per book and it would drag. also when the clutch lever was pulled in, the kick start didn't slip. I adjusted the central screw on the clutch until I could pull the lever in and the kickstart woud slip when fully in but partially until then. All seemed well after that.
Good luck.