Hi All.
I'm just wondering if it's possible to retro fit an oil pressure switch to a BSA Starfire. Mine doesn't have one as standard.
I have an after market headlamp shell with a hole that will take the warning light and thought if it's an easy job I would do it but I am unsure if the crank cases are different.
Cheers
Depends on the model year. Later models have a plug at bottom of timing side as provision for measuring oil pressure. In my opinion an oil pressure gauge is much better than a warning light.
Easiest way is to fit the inner timing cover from a 1970 B25 or TR25w. It has the 1/8" BSP tapped hole take off point for a switch or pressure gauge on its front edge and is a straight swap onto earlier models with no modification (only needing three of the outer cover screws to be changed to unc if dealing with an earlier model with bsf threads).
The '69 inner timing cover has the same tapped hole but underneath in an awkward position, the '71 version has the front tapped hole but the points lead exit is different. Both could be used.
Rupert.
I see. I need a new inner cover. I may well keep an eye out for one and put it on the to do one day list.
Thanks both
Maybe I'm getting old but I'm quite happy not to have a warning light on my '69 Starfire. As long as oil is returning to the tank, meaning some is getting in the engine to be pumped out, I'm happy. Oil pressure switches have a habit of failing and the red light comes on and pressure gauge pipes can split or leak. Just one less thing to worry about.
Well, every man on it's own if that is the correct wording in english. The occasional look at the oil return is old school and fair enough, gives a clue. But the non-roller bearings are fragile and why not have an oil pressure gauge for a ride without worries? There is no need for a mechanical gauge with the plumbing prone to leaks, an electronic can have a sender on the block instead of the switch.
Hi,
I have a pressure gauge fitted on one of my bikes. It is a good indication of pressure but is it worth having.
Yes and no. It shows pressure when the engine fires up and as the engine warms up the pressure drops. At a normal road speed it shows that there is enough pressure. Open the bike up and when the centrifugal force in the spinning crank reaches a point were the oil is being drawn through faster then the pump can pump it the pressure drops quite significantly. Slow down and the pressure comes back up. If this does not happen there could be a problem. If the pressure does not drop as the engine speeds up then are the oil ways in the big ends getting blocked as the shells fail or has the sludge trap finally blocked and cut off the oil supply. All this while riding along in traffic and and on demanding twisty roads etc.
My other bike has a pressure switch and a light. The light goes off just kicking the bike over and never comes back on until the engine stops. The occasional glance when stationary if it very hot but it has never come on with the engine running.
So one gives something to watch and worry about the other almost never a second thought. Both bikes with many thousands of miles under their tyres.
I suppose it is a matter of make your choice it is your bike after all.
Dave.
I was only really thinking of filling the hole in the headlamp shell really. Its currently blanked off with rubber grommet/plug The actual benefit of the warning light is a bit of a bonus.
I
Good morning,
Probably more useful could be a voltage/charge indicator light. I have three of them, not all on one bike though. They are very useful to see how the battery well is charged, charging, over charging and if the generator output is balancing the demand.
Dave.
That's a good idea. I remember an old Austin 1100 that I had that had a warning light on the dash. Do you know how I would set about fitting one?
A small voltmeter, digital or analog, is another choice. A digital one can be very small.
But the worst thing that could happen is a depleted battery, or perhaps worse, an overcharged. The latter unlikely though if you are using the headlight permanently.
Compared to that, the notoriously ill-famed zamak-bodied oil pump can cause a disaster. The latest cast iron bodied one would be my choice if not using some supervision of the oil pressure. Rupert Ratio describes some necessary modifications for using it on an earlier model.
Hi,
If you look on Paul Goff's website you will find 'BATTERY VOLTAGE / STATUS MONITOR (INDICATOR)'.
All it needs is a connection to live and earth. Some need a slightly bigger hole than is usually in the headlight shell but if you get a standard 'idiot' light and remove the coloured plastic lens then the voltage indicator will push in. Other wise just make the hole a bit bigger. They come with full instructions
Dave.
I've had a look. Seem simple enough. Think I'll go for that.
I'm wondering if you could trim down the light casing enough so that it would fit inside one of the vintage style lenses. (Like the bulb for high beam). I'm sure I've seen clear lenses. Just for the sake of keeping it looking authentic.
Hi,
Yes you can but the plastic coloured bit needs to be removed and the sleeve shortened a bit until the voltage indicator pushes into place. A bit of silicon can be use if needed. You will see what needs to be done when you get it.
Dave.
Excellent. Thanks for the tip.