Following instructions in the BSA service sheets to the letter I have come to an emphatic halt. I removed the mudguards, disconnected brake apparatus & wheel (The QD type with a single pinch bolt and left handed axle thread). I then removed the pinch bolts at the higher end of the forks, just below the light assembly, undid the two large chrome nuts at the top of the forks expecting to see a long spring, but instead a metal shaft with a nut underneath the chrome gizmo which disappears down the fork tube & although there is some vertical movement on the shaft they won't come out? Help!
Presuming the bike is an "A" twin or a C25 B25 or a B44 1966 on, the metal rod is a damper rod which goes into the damper body which is attached to the bottom of the fork lower. It does not pull out. Loosen the lock nut and unscrew the rod from the top nut and allow the rod to drop down. You can fish it out with a bent coat hanger when you need to reconnect it.
Not sure what bike you have but there is a conical fit into the top yoke which when the forks are fitted and the chrome nuts tightened will grip the forks. BSA made a special tool to help fork removal but I have loosened the pinch bolts, slackened the chrome nuts a few turns and then tapped the nuts with a leather hammer and that has loosened the forks. I did get some old second hand chrome top nuts to fit and hit with a harder hammer if the forks are stubborn.
You won't see a spring. The spring is between the bottom yoke and the end and inside of the chrome oil seal holders. Once the clamp bolts on the lower yokes are undone undo the chrome nuts on top of forks. Do not remove just unscrew about 1/8 inch then give a sharp tap on them with a copper mallet. Failing a mallet place a piece of wood on top and use a hammer. The fork stanchions locate in the top yoke on a taper that's why the tend to stick. I hope this all makes sense.
The machine is a B33 bitsa!
The basic fork design was used throughout the BSA range. The same dismantling and assemble applies to all.
I'm not a fan of the "al fresco" methods of dismantling things, I was quite happy referring to the accredited BSA service sheet 706 which appeared straightforward initially. I appreciate the help and advice thus rendered but really I would love to know what model BSA these forks relate to, I will then obtain the correct and appropriate service sheet to proceed with confidence. I hope to include a photograph of the offending article as soon as I can find a small boy to carry out the required procedure and convert the reality into an appearance on this thread!
It's going to be a long hard road!
If the forks are the later damper rod types you will see a verticle drilling through the lug at the base of both bottoms through which the socket cap bolt which retains the damper rod body passes. This drilling is not present in the pre damper rod forks.
With the damper rod forks, once the rod is released, dismanting is the same as the earlier with the exception that no circlip is used, which is replaced by a pressed spacer.
This page from the B44 manual gives a cross section.
Thank you Julian (and all the other advisors). I have inadvertently posted the photo of the confusing article on the Ethanol thread in the Star & Garter section. Does this mean the forks on my B33 were originally installed on a B44?
Hi,
Re photo in other post. Could this be an after market damper kit from Dunstall, Eddie Dow or SRM?
Dave.
It certainly looks like the ones on my B33 which I got from Paul Goff.
If they are the Eddie Dow conversion sold by Paul Goff and others they just lift out of the fork because there is nothing for them to catch on.
They do not/will not lift out therefore I assume they are the B44 type and not the various modifications as described. I have located & ordered a B44 service manual in anticipation - onwards & upwards!
Hi,
Just out of curiosity, how far have you managed to lift the dampers out of the fork leg? Your pic attached.
Dave.
That is about as far as they will move, maybe two inches also one side can be moved freely in a small circular motion whereas the opposite one feels as if it is surrounded by very thick oil and does not have such free movement!
Following a fairly traumatic period of mishaps I am about to refit the second front fork leg. Although the bike is a b33 it has two way damping front suspension which could be either off a B44 or an A50/65. As such my manual is not to be relied on and I am wondering how much oil each leg requires. All advice appreciated.