I can't remember how I dd it last time. What is the best way to stop the crankshaft turning to enable me to undo the rotor nut? Thanks. Phil
If the engine is in the frame and the primary chain and clutch fitted lock the back wheel with the the foot brake.
Pete
I tried that. Will try again.
In 1st gear.... :)
Why do you want to undo the rotor nut? To see what it looks like from the other side?
Quote from: Pete A10 on 15 Feb, 2021, 18:50
Why do you want to undo the rotor nut? To see what it looks like from the other side?
Taking the clutch off to look for the source of a leak.
Working on my own. Bike in first gear. Sitting on it (to keep it stable), pressing hard on brake pedal, trying to undo the nut with a socket wrench using just my left hand. A bit awkward, but anyway, the engine turns. Any other ways? Phil
Also tried positioning myself at the side of the bike, pressing the brake pedal, so that I have two hands for the wrench. But still can't stop the engine turning.
I used an air wrench on my B25. Also worked on my Yam SR500.
I don't have air. Maybe I need to take out the clutch plates first and then use a clutch locking tool? I made one a couple of years ago - might not be solid enough, but one way to find out.
Get someone else to hold the back wheel, altenatively lock the back wheel by roping it to the garage door - much more leverage than the brake. Good fitting socket and handle - hit the handle with a hard sharp knock with lump hammer - same effect as an impact wrench. Other question is whether the clutch is slipping - if not then there should be enough resistance generated to be able to free off the nut.
Well I was sitting on the bike so that the back wheel was pressed against the floor. Not sure I could hold it any more firmly than that. Re roping wheel to garage door - would that not damage the spokes when I tried to tighten the nut?
You do not have air but a lot of good battery impact guns out there now. Got a mate you can borrow one off of??
:) :) :)
Try locking up as best you can and use an impact driver. One or two good whacks should do it.
Mike 8) 8) 8)
I quite fancied that idea. Wife sitting on bike, me pressing on brake pedal and whacking impact driver with club hammer. No joy. Phil
I guess I'll try removing the clutch plates and using my clutch locking tool. Phil
:) :) :)
Crazy idea. But anything is worth a try.
Put the bike in gear. Put a long spanner of some sort on the nut and jam spanner on ground or wherever then turn the engine the opposite way by "bouncing" the bike backward. Or use a chisel. A new nut is available and inexpensive. I know that goes completely against the grain---but!!!!
Mike 8) 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: Phil C on 16 Feb, 2021, 11:05
I guess I'll try removing the clutch plates and using my clutch locking tool. Phil
I notice nobody seems to be enthusing about that idea. Will it not work? Or what about jamming something (wood or aluminium) between the two sprockets or between a sprocket and the casing? Phil
Phil,
Try the clutch locking tool. I have two of these. One for A65 and one for a plunger A10. This will remove the slipping clutch from the equation.
You will still need to stop it from turning so back brake on hard. Jamming against the casing is running the risk of damaging the casing regardless of material used. A piece of something between the clutch and front sprocket may do the trick but again possible damage so something soft. The secret is a good fitting socket or ring spanner held against compression and as in line with the centres of the shafts as possible and a good whack with a heavy hammer.
Dave.
:) :) :)
Is it possible to remove the stator and then apply a bit of heat to the nut. Again not the best but might work
Mike 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 16 Feb, 2021, 14:02
Phil,
Try the clutch locking tool. I have two of these. One for A65 and one for a plunger A10. This will remove the slipping clutch from the equation.
You will still need to stop it from turning so back brake on hard. Jamming against the casing is running the risk of damaging the casing regardless of material used. A piece of something between the clutch and front sprocket may do the trick but again possible damage so something soft. The secret is a good fitting socket or ring spanner held against compression and as in line with the centres of the shafts as possible and a good whack with a heavy hammer.
Dave.
Thanks Dave, you mean something soft between the two sprockets?
Heat idea notes, thanks Dave.
Phil
The art of mechanicking old bikes is often knowing how hard to hit things. As Dave has said and I said earlier, good fitting socket / ring spanner and a good sharp blow with a lump hammer. Also try a longer socket handle - tubing or even a breaker bar to get more torque on the nut. If you set yourself up standing on the brake pedal and pull upwards on the bar/ tube you will maximise the opposing efforts. I seem to remember the nut has a lock washer on it - daft suggestion but I assume that has been bent back??
Hi,
I assume that the chain is still on so something that fits between and aluminium rather than steel. No matter what you do you still need to hold the clutch so that you have something to push against.
Perhaps Mikes suggestion of gentle heat would work and also reduce the amount of force needed. It could be that thread locker has been used but as mentioned remove the alternator stator first. Again get things lined up and a good whack on the ring spanner will move it.
You probably already know but the idea of the whack is to shock the nut against the inertia of the engine and back brake.
Dave.
Stick something soft between the chain and the sprocket. A lump of lead will do. I've got some old body shop lead used for lead loading which jams in well but some folded roofing lead may work.
Alternatively , find someone local with an impact driver and it will be off in a second.
Thanks everyone. Pete, but I don't think the problem is not enough torque, it's stopping everything else turning. Anyway, taking on board the advice and still trying. Have just taken out clutch plates so I can lock the clutch.
Hurray! I put my clutch locking tool on and the rotor nut undid straight away. Thanks again everyone. I'm learning! Problem is remembering what I've learnt! Next question should be along shortly. If I'm becoming a pain please just let me know - I won't be offended. Phil
:) :) :) :)
Hi. Pleased that you are at last successful. Your questions will never be treated here as anything other than genuine. In truth you may not be the only person learning from any specific subject. There is probably someone else right now saying "why don't I try that".
The only wrong question is the one that you don't ask.
Mike 8) 8) 8) 8)
I'm pleased to hear its worked out Phil !
I must admit I'm not all that keen on hammering on old nuts on old shafts to release them.
Having bought a cheap 1/2" sq drive 3 foot long breaker bar about 3 years ago i have found it very useful for undoing those primary drive , crank pinion, clutch centre and even rear wheel nuts at times.
It's always helpful to know when you were the one who tightened the nut whether any thread sealant was used and that the torque was correct at time of fitting. When you inherit a situation its not always clear how its been fitted. Heat might be needed at times to release any thread sealant.
Pete
I'd had it off before, but couldn't remember how, or whether I'd put loctite on it. Maybe need to write things down! Phil
for future reference,just place a bit of ally here and it locks solid, reverse it to tighten. No need to mess with brake or clutch.
Actually, as in the photo it is placed for tightening
(https://i.ibb.co/PGfffzM/SAMSUNG-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg)
Pete, Thanks very much for this. I think that's what Dave suggested also. I was a bit reluctant as I wasn't sure if it might cause any damage. Anyway I know now, and I'll do that when I tighten it ( if I can find a bit of ally!) Thanks again. Phil
Gearbox in top gear more chance of the brake locking the wheel.
I'd been wondering. Thanks Overthehill. Phil
Hi,
This something I have been intending to make for undoing/tightening clutch and rotor nuts. I have the usual two plates bolted together but using Phil's clutch locking tool as a basis the idea is to use a longer piece for the 'handle' so that it can be held against the footrest lug. It will probably be necessary to put a spacer between the handle and the plates to clear the joint face of the case. There would be no need to hold the tool against the force of tightening/undoing the nuts. I hope this make sense.
Dave.
I don't have to hold mine, it locates against something, can't remember what and as my clutch is out at the moment I can't really check for definite. I think it might be a lug on the underside of the brake pedal arm. There's not much clearance from the casing face, and I ought to put some spacers/ more washers to increase that. Phil