Just thinking ahead here from the comfort of my armchair. I'm going to be taking the clutch off my 1965 B40F soon. When putting it back on I will need to tighten the springs in such a way as to be ensure the plates are running as true as possible. What's the best way of doing that, and how close does it need to be? Thanks very much as usual. Phil
This is the way Michael Waller does it on a C15. Starts at 12.13 nothing fancy but it works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vqAj7aicjA
Thanks.
Hi Phil,
I initially just bring a pointer in close, spin the clutch and adjust then a dial test indicator (DTI) to get it even better. Probably not necessary totally but every little helps.
Hi,
I think it is also important to ensure that the plates move freely in their grooves. Any drag or resistance will make getting the springs right more difficult. Ease any ridges on the grooves and burrs on the plate tangs. Once the clutch is in use enough oil will get there to lubricate the plates but for assembly put a bit of oil or grease on them and the adjustment should be more reliable.
Dave.
Quote from: Blackthou on 05 Feb, 2021, 08:51
Hi Phil,
I initially just bring a pointer in close, spin the clutch and adjust then a dial test indicator (DTI) to get it even better. Probably not necessary totally but every little helps.
It would be nice to have a DTI. Phil
Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 05 Feb, 2021, 09:29
Hi,
I think it is also important to ensure that the plates move freely in their grooves. Any drag or resistance will make getting the springs right more difficult. Ease any ridges on the grooves and burrs on the plate tangs. Once the clutch is in use enough oil will get there to lubricate the plates but for assembly put a bit of oil or grease on them and the adjustment should be more reliable.
Dave.
Interesting, thanks Dave, I'll have a good look at the plates and give them a smear of oil when I reassemble. Phil
Check all the plates are in good condition - flat and that the bonded plates have sufficient lining thickness and have worn evenly.
HI,
Good suggestion. An easy preliminary way is to stack all the plates on a flat surface and then press gently down on one side. If the plates are not flat big gaps will open up. Then check them individually on a flat surface. Beware of new ones as they may not be as flat as they should be. I sent some back as they were worse than the ones I had. I found some NOS and although a lot better they were still not completely flat but as good as I was going to get.
Dave.
No microwave...no DTI... Living the dream!
Hi Phil
Ive found adjusting clutches a pain at times and I have found dial gauges to be almost TOO accurate.
On these old bikes I find a bit of wobble with all the ones I've adjusted so the gauge needle looks to be all over the place to start with!
make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly on the push rod mechanism and also the cable slack is taken up to allow only a small play at the handlebar.If the clutch is not disengaging properly because of poor cable and rod adjustment it will be more difficult to do.
I try to judge leaning by over the bike from the right side and with foot pressing on kickstart you can rotate the clutch. If the primary chain is off it is easy to spin it with clutch engaged or disengaged but if chain is on it will be a bit harder and you might need to take out the plug/s.
Ive found that by viewing from above you can eye the high and low spots as they rotate. Ive used a modified low tech gauge too with just a pointer stick set to touch the clutch top cover. As the clutch rotates mark with a marker pen the high spot and then adjust the spring closest to the mark and a small amount of the two if mark is between two springs.
Ive found that your left hand gets cramp after a while so use a cable tie or a clamp on the clutch lever if you want to keep the lever pulled in for a while.
Pete