I drained my petrol tank (1965 B40F) for the winter. It's sitting on the garage floor. Is there anything else I should do? I'm thinking of corrosion resistance. There are one or two small patches of rust inside but it appears to me to be in "so-so" nick (my knowledge level re fuel tanks: low) Thanks in advance as usual. Phil
try to get rid of the rust then a layer of thin oil. thin will allow petrol to be swilled around to remove. the expensive option would be to use a tank liner.
How would I get rid of the small patches of what looks like surface rust inside the tank?
Hi Phil,
I would put the tank back on the bike or up on a shelf away from a potentially damp floor and a greater risk of condensation in the empty tank. If you can reach the rust patches with a paint brush try treating it with a rust cure product once the inside is dry.
Dave.
Something like jenolite paste? Phil
Hi Phil,
I use this:
Details https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233687859460
Cheaper here https://www.draganfly.co.uk/shop/81384/tank-sealer-425ml-slosh/#A3-90
Best wishes...
Hi,
Treating the whole inside of the tank is the best option but the Hammerite product I use cures the rust only and does not affect good metal. Cheaper but not as complete.
Dave.
Hmmm... just put the tank on the bench instead of the floor (it was on a mat rather than bare concrete, by the way) and had another look inside: there is some I hadn't seen before, at the LH bottom rear of the tank, some going out of sight towards the centre back. I think reaching it with a brush is unrealistic, esp where it disappears from view. I wonder whether I should just leave it for now, or would a stitch in time be better? How good is the stuff that Bess posted about? And how effective is the stuff you put on first? Would you just be covering up rust? Phil
And what about the stuff Dave uses? What are the pros and cons of the different methods and products? Or should I be taking the tank to an expert? Phil
Actually I guess the stuff Dave is talking about wouldn't reach it all, esp if it has to be applied by brush.
Have look at this site Phil https://cwylde.co.uk/flowliner-tank-coatings/ I used the BioRust when I was renovating my B40. Mix it with water and fill the tank up and leave it for 24 hours. I did line the tank with the Flowliner afterwards which was a bit belt and braces. Not cheap, but I thought when I bought it that they had some smaller containers of it. I certainly didn't pay £57!!!!
Hi Phil,
As you have found more than one or two small patches and what could be well established rust it is probably best that you do a proper job with a tank sealing kit. My suggestion was for the small visible amount of surface rust initially mentioned.
I have used the POR kit and it seems to work well but there is enough to do two tanks and it cannot be kept. So if you have another one treat that as well.
There was a previous thread on tank sealers so if you search for this you will see the different products discussed. Once done properly you should have no issues with rust in your tank.
Dave.
I don't think a few rust "stains" are a problem. Flakey rust is different. I tend to store dry or empty tanks by swishing a bit of 2 stroke mix around and draining the tank. In fact I add a few splashes of 2 stroke oil to all my tanks throughout the year to keep a tiny bit of oil in the petrol which helps protect the tank. Also, always run the bikes with an inline paper fuel filter ( clear type so you can see any shit from the tank).
Another option, I guess, is taking it to an expert, ie a professional. Is it worth it? Are they expensive? Phil
Hi Phil,
They are expensive and its real easy to seal yourself, both mine are sealed with Slosh. I leave fuel in all winter starting the bikes periodically and warm through, never have any major issues.
Did you read the instructions at the bottom of the page and research this product? has anybody on this forum had a bad experience with it?:
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/slosh-fuel-tank-sealer-7
Draganfly have a complete kit at the moment with a £20 gift voucher to use in their shop making it £39.95:
https://www.draganfly.co.uk/shop/103927/petrol-tank-pack/#PACK-INTER-007
Best wishes...
I read the Slosh instructions and was a bit confused quite early on: it says you should thoroughly clean the tank with Rustbuster Tank-Kleen caustic detergent to remove grease, dirt and fuel deposits. It then says "(If there are signs of rust in the tank, use a suitable rust remover, please contact for details)" I was a bit surprised that Rustbuster Tank-Kleen didn't get rid of the rust. I mean it's called Rustbuster. So anyway I find myself in bit of a quandary. I'm not oozing confidence about doing it properly, but I checked the price for an expert to do it: ouch. I know, I need to decide. Phil
If you fancy some fun then have a go at removing by electrolysis. Search on You Tube. I had amazing results.
All you need is a battery charger, some sodium carbonate (not bi carbonate) some old bits of metal and some patience to get the set up right.
Inside of my tank was completely covered in rust. Bike has been standing 30 plus years. Two cycles of electrolysis of 3 days each and it was like new metal! I was absolutely stunned. I wish I had some pics it was brilliant.
Some thing to relieve lockdown boredom.
I read this topic with interest as, like Phil, I am in a similar situation with my B40 ('61).
The tank on my restored B40 has previously had expensive re-chroming and paint and looks great. However, inside it looks like there is a fair amount of rust build up which has prompted me to think about what to do to try and preserve it. I don't believe the tank has ever been previously sealed.
So many proprietary products for sale with varying claims! This is my first BSA (or older bike) and as such I have zero experience in de-rusting and sealing tanks so advice from those who have had success is very welcome. I haven't personally checked the price of having this done professionally but I think Phil's "ouch" answers that point !
Just for the present, is it best to completely drain the tank of petrol and leave with the cap on or off? Leave the tank on the bike or store elsewhere during this enforced period of inactivity ? My bike is stored in a dry garage.
Thanks
Colin
I would second the reverse electrolysis method.
I had spent an absolute fortune getting the Super Rocket tank re chromed and professionally painted only to discover the inside covered in rust just inside a few years later. It was my fauly for leaving it half full of fuel for several months while it was not being used. I did not want to damage the immaculate paint and chrome so used reverse eletrolysis. It worked brilliantly and cost pence.
I was going to phone the Slosh people to discuss what to do about the rust, as advised by the instructions. But I've just seen a video where someone had been contacted by lots of people saying don't use Slosh. Sigh. Phil
Quote from: Phil C on 12 Jan, 2021, 14:31
I was going to phone the Slosh people to discuss what to do about the rust, as advised by the instructions. But I've just seen a video where someone had been contacted by lots of people saying don't use Slosh. Sigh. Phil
The video is entitled "Extras - don't use Slosh sealer!!!"
Clearly Bess has had good results with it, but naturally the video has made me pause and consider. Phil
Hi Phil,
The video relates to sloshing compounds in aircraft fuel tanks not 'Slosh':
http://www.lightaircraftassociation.co.uk/engineering/TADs/363/sb11-9-13.pdf
Best wishes...
Very sorry. Stupid of me. Thanks Bess ( yet again!) Phil
Hi Phil,
No problem, as they say, there's never a stupid question only a stupid answer.
Best wishes...
I spoke with Rustbuster this morning about how to tackle rust if necessary after using the Tank Kleen and before putting in the Slosh. They recommended using something called Ecocleaner, saying it is a gel that could be poured in, diluted about 5-10 per cent with water if you wish, and then manoeuvred into position to attack the rust, leave for 1-2 hours and rinse with water. Looking online later ( if I'm looking at the right stuff) it is described as being jelly- like, (and advises leaving for longer than that.) I wonder how feasible to it would be to get something of that consistency into the right position, towards the bottom side rear of the tank. Anybody used it? They did also say that if the surface is sound, not flaky, then Slosh doesn't need a perfectly rust- free surface. Phil
Hi I've got a nice chromed and painted C15 tank but cant say the same for its internals
Been sat for 15 years empty and now quite rusty inside .
I am not sure which method works best having read positive results for Molasses , Vinegar and Electrolysis
Any views comments appreciated
thanks
Mick
I've cleaned a few tanks over the years:
I've shaken a couple of handfuls of nuts and bolts around to get rid of loose stuff.
Soaked the tank in cola - that does clean it up a bit but need to soak for many days and not harmful to paint outside the tank.
Best was to use Spirits of Salt ( I think it's hydrochloric acid). Very cheap, cleans very well, may perforate an iffy tank, may damage paintwork and chrome outside the tank.
You takes your choice. I am not over fussy as long as the tank is not full of loose rust. I always have an inline paper filter and stick a few drops of 2 stroke oil in to help lubricate the tank itself. My old bantam tank has no rust in it at all!
you can use pretty much any acid to remove the rust but be careful as they will also slowly go for the metal as well.
I use a dilute phosphoric acid solution, same acid as in coke but I wouldn't drink it- or coke for that matter.
Phosphoric also binds to any remaining rust, neutralising it as a protective layer.
It is what is in most rust killer products, just bound in a gel and given a price hike.
I really enjoy working on my bike, learning from this forum as I go. But I really don't fancy de-rusting and lining the petrol tank. So much so that I'm even considering taking it to a professional, despite the price. Anyone ever used Devon Bike Tank Repairs? (I believe they're at Holsworthy.). Phil
Hi Phil,
I haven't used Devon Tank Repairs but heard they are good.
Don't worry about trying yourself its not difficult. I think Rustbuster could be recommending a Naval Jelly product which is fantastic. Here's the loctite version, cheaper out there however they have one of the best reputations.
https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/specialty-products/surface-treatments/loctite_naval_jellyrustdissolver.html
Best wishes...
You can convert the rust easily with phosphoric acid, cheap to buy online. When it's cleaned you can use various things to lightly coat inside, wd40 etc.
Quote from: DEAN SOUTHALL on 11 Jan, 2021, 19:38
I would second the reverse electrolysis method.
I had spent an absolute fortune getting the Super Rocket tank re chromed and professionally painted only to discover the inside covered in rust just inside a few years later. It was my fauly for leaving it half full of fuel for several months while it was not being used. I did not want to damage the immaculate paint and chrome so used reverse eletrolysis. It worked brilliantly and cost pence.
Hi Dean! I just a acquired a nice running A65 Thunderbolt but it needs some TLC. The tank has a slight dent in exactly the wrong place so it will need rechroming after repair and then painting. Can you recommend the people who did your Super Rocket tank. Always best to use someone tried and tested.
Cheers, Jeremy Shotts (returning to BSAs after long break and new member)