Hi all , if I were to fit a engine drain cover (sump cover) the type with a drain plug would I be able to use the original mounting studs if the new cover is deeper would it effect the oil suction and another question what is the split pin in the rocker assembly for what happens if it missing. thanks Roy
Hi Roy,
There will be bit more oil in the aluminium type drain cover as it is a bit deeper. It makes no difference to the return as the oil still comes up to the return pipe. The original studs will be too short so longer ones will be needed. Although more expensive than some, I believe that the SRM sump plate kit comes with allen type screws for fitting, gasket and gauze.
The split pin is there to regulate the amount of oil going to the rockers and to the cam followers. If it is not there the oil will mostly go through to the cam followers and so starve the rockers. Likewise if blocked the rockers will get more oil than they need and the cam followers will be not getting enough.
I wonder why BSA never put the right size of bleed hole there?
Dave.
Ive an old SRM drain cover, had to make longer studs. I dont like the thought of allen screws as the risk of making the threads slacker from continual/repeated removal every time you want to clean the filter and the risk of cross threading or dirt as working under the bike holds the possibility. so studs and nuts are the safest option. one of my suppliers do a cast option.
my old SRM type seems shallower and bigger cast internal radii than the modern, it also has 1/2" Bolt with a magnet in which was partially stripped so I opened out to 14mm for a modern bolt so I suspect slightly lower capacity than the modern ones CNC machined out of billet.
Hi,
I agree about continuous removal of screws for oil changes. One advantage of the drain plug is that unless some problem is suspected, is that the screws do not have to be undone every time. Also, if wanting to only drain off 'wet sumped' oil then the drain plug is ideal.
Dave.
Thanks a lot for the great informative answers, Roy
I have read on another clubs forum that a magnetic sump drain plug could hold back the ball bearing in the scavenge pipe reducing oil flow , I wonder if any member has found this. Thanks Roy
Hi Roy,
Never even heard of this and definitely not experienced it. I do not think that the magnet is that powerful. It is only intended to attract small magnetic particles that get through the gauze.
When doing an oil change the magnet is usually coated with sludge that holds the ferrous debris stopping it from going through the pump.
I cannot imagine SRM or Surrey Cycles (there are other suppliers) fitting/supplying a product that was not compatible. Although there could be some 'iffy' ones out there.
Dave.
Thanks that's reassuring , Roy
I can confirm that the magnets fitted to the old SRM type and modern types of bolts are not that powerful. seems that they are just powerful enough to catch fine slivers or dust particles but would not hold much weight, servicing many superbikes Ive only ever had a paste to wipe from the magnet. Ive tried a few sticking to other metal and they have a job to hold the weight of the bolt.
Does anyone have part numbers and a supplier for the longer studs needed for the alloy sump plates?
Draganfly have them listed as 0133 but I would think 1. 5/16" long is a bit on the long side unless they mean you to have them and cut them down.
I made my own around 5/16" longer than original. depends which sump plate is bought i suppose. dont need them too long that they would catch on things.
Hi,
If you haven't bought a plate yet, worth a try here as the whole kit is available here:
http://www.nookysnuts.com/catalogue/sumpplates/sumpplates.html
If you just have the plate he may supply the fixing kit.
Best wishes...
Thank you, Nooky,s nuts sell stud kits separately,so sorted now. Cheers.
I was looking at mine and funnily enough have a question about them.
I am not sure just what make mine is but what worries me is that SRM say theirs must be fitted with the drain plug to the rear, mine is fitted with it facing forwards.
It doesn't look like the current SRM offering,, was there a previous version that did not have SRM inscribed into it?
Mine looks a bit more like the nooky nuts ones but I don't think it is actually that one.
What other versions are around? and do any have the drain plug facing forward?
as my first posting, SRM one Ive got on the A10 is a primative casting. rough cast and with the inside a cast diameter with big radii in the corner. If I were to make one today , it would be out of Aluminium billet and look a lot tidier as modern supplied ones. The magnetic bolt wasan imperial size with a welded top to the head so presumably the magnet was dropped in that way onto a shoulder then the top welded over. Minehas SRM cast on it so I presume it was an original design before someone bit the bullet and decided it could be improved on by machining from billet.
as for positioning, mine has bolt at back purely as a safety thing, rather than get hit into the casting it could get pulled out. the filter screen fits either way on the sump but is one directional on the bike. I will add, as mine is on a bobber, its lower so clearance is a problem even pushing up on the ramp.
there are other manufacturers, Wassells and myself for example even motorcyclists that work in machine shops so probably a lot of options.
Hi Bruce,
As the sump plate is square it can go on anyway round so long as the magnet does not foul the oil scavenge pipe. These plates have been around for along time and I have always fitted them with the plug to the back. Not for the reason given by SRM but because I thought that less road dirt would accumulate on it.
Dave.
This one available from Eddie Dow back in 1968.
The cheap cast ones commonly found on ebay are copies of it.
Mine looks like that one, although for some reason or somebody has ground out the corners for more clearance?
So it doesn't matter whether this version is fitted front or rearwards facing?
I was looking at buying the current SRM version (and maybe still will) and it was the instructions to only fit this facing backwards that worried me.
Bruce,
As long as you have the gauze in the correct way then the cover can go any way to suit you. I found the front is best as it is easier to see and get at.
The best thing about having one of these as opposed to the BSA original is if the bike is prone to wet sumping then you can drain off the excess oil in the crankcase before a ride. Also, it's a good way of checking how much it wet sumps in a particular period between drain offs.
I took it off and found the gauze was missing, so one on order to fit before refitting the cover. :-\
After a bit of reading it seems the reason SRM state that the plug goes to the back is so the magnet is closest to the scavenge pipe so while it technically should work best plug to the rear its not exactly a disaster if it isn't