Author Topic: Lights not working (1965 B40F)  (Read 174 times)

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JulianS

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #15 on: 10 January, 2019, 19:41:14 »
There should be an o ring between ammeter and cowl. The old one from your carb will fit.

Bees

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #16 on: 10 January, 2019, 20:26:31 »
I just got one from feked. It was 21 quid incl vat and postage. There are cheaper ones but they dont look as good in my opinion.

I expect, but not sure yours is a 1 and 3/4 inch diameter and -8 -0 +8 reading.

They can seem like money pits. Hopefully these things are a one off cost and once sorted they are sorted for good. Once there all done keeping at a sorted level is much easier.

I suppose you have to expect it. Unless you know otherwise its sensible to assume that a 50+ year old bike is going to to have stuff to sort out. Its part of the charm! The feeling of satisfaction you get in solving these problems is worth it.


Phil C

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #17 on: 10 January, 2019, 21:25:30 »
What make is it, Bees?  Phil.

Bees

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #18 on: 10 January, 2019, 21:58:57 »
Search this part number on feked.com

fkamm002

But measure the diameter if yours. It'll probably br 1 and 3/4 inches. But some are different.

Phil C

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #19 on: 10 January, 2019, 22:27:37 »
Thanks Bees.

By the way (see photo), regarding the light switch, do the wires just push into it?  I tried to pull one out but it wasn't having it.

Phil.

JulianS

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #20 on: 10 January, 2019, 22:38:47 »
The wires dont pull out of the connector.

Phil C

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #21 on: 10 January, 2019, 22:42:01 »
Oh. Just as well I stopped pulling. How are they put in?

JulianS

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #22 on: 11 January, 2019, 09:11:01 »
Never taken one apart but I think that the brass terminal to which the wire is attached has a latch which engages in the body. In service if they failed a replacement was available with bullet connectors, like the one in the photo.

berniej

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #23 on: 11 January, 2019, 09:33:41 »
If you want a quick check that the ammeter is indeed the problem just short the connections.
Or, disconnect the feed from one side and add it to the wires coming from the other.

If the problem is an open-circuit ammeter then everything will be fixed - except you'll get no reading on the ammeter of course!

If that doesn't change the behaviour then it suggests the problem is elsewhere.

Cheers,
Bernie
'49 M21/B31 hybrid
'56 M21 combination
Bantam D7
C15 project

Phil C

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #24 on: 11 January, 2019, 12:31:54 »
Morning all, You will of course be on the edge of your seats.  Here is the next thrilling instalment. Berniej's suggestion for testing the ammeter (no doubt absolutely obvious to him, but to me a great revelation) was very useful. I put a little bit of wire across the two ammeter connections, watching the headlight out of the corner of my eye, and...the gloom was not lifted. So, I thought, maybe it's not the ammeter after all.  Then, whilst fiddling around to make sure my bit of wire was making a reasonable contact, I noticed the rear light come on! Hallelujah! But why no headlight?  I kept fiddling with the little bit of wire.  Then the parking light came on. Then it didn't, even when the rear light was on. So I guess that's a bad connection somewhere for the parking light. But still no headlight. So I thought I'd check the headlight bulb again, and when I took off the bayonet-like fitting I saw the bulb was crooked in its hole, so maybe there wasn't a connection. Then, trying to straighten the bulb, I broke one the bulb contacts off  (I have a feeling I've done that before) so I need a new bulb. Anyway, to sum up at this stage, it looks like: 1. the ammeter's had it; 2. there's a poor connection for the parking light; and 3. the headlight bulb needs to go in straight in future. I'll get an ammeter first, before I sort the bulb contacts, so I don't have to fiddle around holding a piece of wire on the ammeter contacts. Can't say it's not interesting. Okay, maybe you can. But I'm enjoying it.   Phil.

ducati2242

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #25 on: 11 January, 2019, 13:27:49 »
Is your headlight properly earthed . It can be working ok whilst fitted but I find the earth wire is always iffy when its just hanging there  . The side light , parking light , has its own earth .
1956 bsa GS DB500
1967 bsa B44
1955 matchless G9
2006 ducati 999R .

Phil C

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #26 on: 11 January, 2019, 14:19:18 »
I'll check. Thanks ducati2242.

Ordered an ammeter from Feked (thanks again Bees.) Looking at the brass bracket which holds mine in place (see photo), I must say it's a flimsy little affair (see photo.)  You'd think there might be a little flange on each end of the bracket, wouldn't you?  It's also very thin brass. Oh well.

Also ordered a headlight bulb from Draganfly.

Why am I telling you all this?  (Note to self:  Get life.)

Anyway, looking forward to getting my bits.   Phil.

Phil.

Bees

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #27 on: 11 January, 2019, 18:22:33 »
Useful tip Bernie about the Ammeter. Cheers

Pete C

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #28 on: 12 January, 2019, 08:08:37 »
I had a problem recently with my electrics.
The headlight was much dimmer than it used to be and after checking the battery I tested the voltage to the headlight and found it to be around 4-5 volts. I then went through the wiring loom, just cleaning and checking all the connections, and problem solved.
There must have just been an accumulation of corrossion along the various connections leading to a resistance high enough to cause the problem. 6 volt systems are particularly sensitive to this.

Cheers
Pete

berniej

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Re: Lights not working (1965 B40F)
« Reply #29 on: 12 January, 2019, 08:50:51 »
If I'm rewiring I'll usually take a dedicated earth wire from the battery up into the headlamp and connect with a large ring tag to one of the headlamp fixing bolts. Then I run earth wires for the local bulbs back to that. It avoids poor earthing issues with dirty or loose connectors or other poor metal to metal contact. Might need earth tags fitting to e.g. headlamp shell or speedo.

Sometimes this just leaves the horn button operation reliant on the handlebars being well earthed (depending on type but many work like this). Running an earth wire to the bars can be awkward but might help with iffy horn operation.

Cheers,
Bernie
'49 M21/B31 hybrid
'56 M21 combination
Bantam D7
C15 project