Author Topic: You gotta be kidding me....  (Read 413 times)

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Gus

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You gotta be kidding me....
« on: 26 March, 2018, 22:56:34 »
Good day gents. 

I'm restoring a recently acquired 1969 A65T and I want to remove the oil tank so I can thoroughly flush it and re-weld the mounting tab. However, the removal of the oil tank is proving difficult  :-[  .  Please tell me there's a way of doing it without removing the rear wheel?

Also, despite it seemingly running fine, I spied tiny bubbles emanating from the right front head bolt.  I read somewhere else that its no big deal.  WTH have I gotten myself into   :o ???
« Last Edit: 27 March, 2018, 00:17:42 by DEE »

bikerbob

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Re: You gotta be kidding me....
« Reply #1 on: 27 March, 2018, 09:11:20 »
I do seem to remember some years ago when I restored my A65 from a basket case that I fitted the rear mudguard and wheel then had to remove them to fit the oil tank.

AWJDThumper

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Re: You gotta be kidding me....
« Reply #2 on: 27 March, 2018, 09:17:13 »
I don't think there's enough room to get it out without removing the mudguard. You can certainly flush the tank out in situ but do you need to remove the tank to repair the mounting tab?

Editor

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Re: You gotta be kidding me....
« Reply #3 on: 27 March, 2018, 13:07:22 »
Bubbling from the Head bolt? Do you mean at the Head/Gasket Joint itself or at the Bolt Head? Either way, there is leaking at the Gasket, Most if not all do that. If you decide the get the Head off, look out for black burn over on the gasket. Use a smear of Bath Sealant on the Head Gasket before replacing. (SRM Suggest this) Also, check that the correct washers on the Bolts and Studs are there, They should be 3/8" ID X3/4" OD X.093" (3/32") Thick. This helps stop the used Rocker lube oil dripping down and finding its way out through the head or being drawn into the combustion chambers and burning off there.
Good luck!

Mike Farmer

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Re: You gotta be kidding me....
« Reply #4 on: 27 March, 2018, 14:04:01 »
 :)

Hi. Depends what welding method you propose.  If you are using MIG or Stick you should be fine to weld it in situ cos you really only need to "splash" it.
I would be far more wary using gas because you have to keep the flame up to the piece.

You can always stuff a piece of wet cloth inside to damp out any probability of it catching fire.

Have a bucket of water handy and a wet cloth ready to put straight on the finished weld to cool it. Or a cup of water.

With MIG or Stick don't forget to disconnect your battery to avoid the possibility of wacking a great big current through your alternator.

Mike 8) 8) 8)

AWJDThumper

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Re: You gotta be kidding me....
« Reply #5 on: 27 March, 2018, 14:44:07 »
I thought the bracket was spot welded on although pictures seem to show small welds on either side next to the right angle part where it mounts to the frame. If it has come loose at this point, it shouldn't be too difficult to add small welds as long as you can clean back to bear metal in those areas.

Mike Farmer

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Re: You gotta be kidding me....
« Reply #6 on: 27 March, 2018, 15:54:17 »
 :)

I've just looked at one and it is just a short weld either side. Whether that original ????????????

Mike 8) 8)

Gus

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Re: You gotta be kidding me....
« Reply #7 on: 30 April, 2018, 17:23:10 »
Thanks for all the valuable information gents.  The tank came out the side eventually, by holding my tongue just the right way  :P   After welding the broken mounting tab back on, I expected rear wheel removal to be necessary for re-installation.  Once again, with patience, proper tongue technique and periodic applications of Glenmorangie, it went back in the way it came out!  Wonders never cease.

Re: Bubbling bolts being common ... again, wonders never cease!  :o  I had convinced myself that something  catastrophic had occurred to the cylinder castings.

Yrhmblsrvnt,
Beezer Geezer
Peachland Canada, eh?

PS:  This site is the bomb!