Author Topic: Arc Engineering Electric start  (Read 2036 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Lone Wolf

  • Star
  • *
  • Posts: 32
    • View Profile
Re: Arc Engineering Electric start
« Reply #15 on: 26 May, 2024, 18:55:47 »
what type of clutch comes with the kit , multiplate or diaphram?
a norton diaphram clutch could offer the best clutch settup but whatever type the grabbing is due to a over strong spring or springs is it not?
does the ark kit use a ballast resister to feed 6 volt coils like the commando?

Wotcha.

It runs the existing clutch plates in the new clutch drum - along with the existing three springs.

So you think it may be grabbing 'cos the springs are wound in too tight ?
I'll back the springs off until the clutch "just" starts to slip and see how that performs.
I'm wiling to try anything to get this clutch to work as it did before the electric start kit was fitted.

There's no ballast resistor fitted, but the starter works instantly every time with no hesitation in turning the engine over.  I can't falut the starting side of things - just this damn clutch.  I think a little bit more development work could have gone into this. For what it costs, you expect it to be perfect.

EDDIE SIMPSON

  • Silver Star
  • ****
  • Posts: 369
    • View Profile
Re: Arc Engineering Electric start
« Reply #16 on: 27 May, 2024, 16:49:50 »
hi , nothing to lose by winding the springs out. as long as the starter turns the engine that would be near the mark.
the clutch springs may be too stiff . i have fitted standard gpz500 clutch springs before which were progressive and that bike has an electric start.

Lone Wolf

  • Star
  • *
  • Posts: 32
    • View Profile
Re: Arc Engineering Electric start
« Reply #17 on: 28 May, 2024, 12:40:57 »
hi , nothing to lose by winding the springs out. as long as the starter turns the engine that would be near the mark.

Wotcha.

The starter ring gear is on the outside of the clutch basket, making it in effect "primary kick" ( same as a Bantam ).
You could take all the clutch plates out and the engine will still start.

It's currently sitting in the "naughty corner" until I get back off my holidays.  I'm just not in the mood to take it all apart yet again.  Maybe I'll feel better about it in a couple of weeks.

EDDIE SIMPSON

  • Silver Star
  • ****
  • Posts: 369
    • View Profile
Re: Arc Engineering Electric start
« Reply #18 on: 28 May, 2024, 16:38:51 »
some photos would be nice

HOWIE

  • Star
  • *
  • Posts: 1
    • View Profile
Re: Arc Engineering Electric start
« Reply #19 on: 13 June, 2024, 23:22:59 »
OK late to this post and pardon my ignorance. Have both a Tony Hayward and an Arc electric start kit ready to fit to my Tbolt. The Tony Hayward belt drive kit came without a clutch centre and cush drive and ran on the BSA 3 spring clutch. The Arc electric start comes with a modified clutch centre running on a sealed bearing as runs dry. The clutch cush drive is a clone of the BSA / Triumph cush drive so why would this be inferior/inadequate?   

Allan G

  • Golden Flash
  • *****
  • Posts: 537
    • View Profile
Re: Arc Engineering Electric start
« Reply #20 on: 16 June, 2024, 10:21:06 »
The original 3 spring Cush drive needs to be in A1 condition for it to work well. It was by far inferior to the 4spring setup which proceeded it and where by the clutch hub was mounted integral to the basket to prevent twist and wobble.

If the Cush drive isnít in A1 condition and you have an engine which is capable of providing some good torque then the clutch will start to slip. The Triumph solution with the T140 was to fit heavier springs. Having tried the heavier springs on an A65, you need strong hands to work it.

The arc kit has the ring gear on the outboard side of the clutch. Personally I would rather have it at the back of the clutch to put the driven area in line with the bearing to prevent twist on the basket. However I understand that for simplicity and preventing modification to the crank case, it was fitted outboard.