Cable nipple soldering

[Alan wray]

I will get some multicore tin/lead solder and start again. I THINK i am happy with the splayed ends and not the birdcage. I do not think they will pull out with a good solder.

[Dean Southall]

If you are in the vicinity Carrot Cycles in Lincoln will make cables while you wait. I have also bought solder and flux from them.

[Alan wray]

Im in the north. Very north. I know classic bikes in newcastle makes up cables, he has done some for me before. I might just go to him, for safety reasons if nothing ells.

[Alan wray]

Is wetting, tinning.

[BILL NELSON]

I will get some multicore tin/lead solder and start again. I THINK i am happy with the splayed ends and not the birdcage. I do not think they will pull out with a good solder.

You shouldn't use multicore electrical solder - it's weaker than 60/40 lead from plumbers' merchants.
I have my lead in a small s/s teapot that is more stable and heat stable than a small brass fitting. Heat it on a camping stove with the garage door open,

[iansoady]

I don't know why you say this Bill, any 60/40 solder is exactly the same strength. I've been using multicore all my cable-making life and never had a failure. There's some useful information here: https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/315929.pdf

[Bicycle repair man]

Venhill actually recommend electrical solder or plumbers solder.
The only problem with multicore is that the flux may not be aggressive enough, especially when modifying or repairing a used cable.
On a slightly different note, I worked on a dealers on the sixties and seventies. They had special nipple soldering tongs. They looked like curling tongs but with carbon brushes at the end that faced each other.  The tongs were connected to a 12v battery. The nipple was held between the brushes, and when the button was pressed, the dead short across the battery heated up the nipple to solder it! A bit brutal on the battery, but they worked well. I can't remember who made them, but I think they came from  the motorcycle trade suppliers, MCA.

[V500]

The flux in flux-cored solder isn't sufficient to solder Bowden cables on it's own. Additional flux is required.

[BILL NELSON]

I don't know why you say this Bill, any 60/40 solder is exactly the same strength. I've been using multicore all my cable-making life and never had a failure. There's some useful information here: https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/315929.pdf

My message was poorly worded Ian. The problem is not with the strength of the solder itself but the strength of the joint produced. Dipping the cable and nipple into a molten solder pot is the best way to ensure full penetration. It is possible to produce a good cable with solder only, by this method, provided it's not for brakes etc.

[iansoady]

I've tried solder pots and don't like the results as the nipple becomes plated with solder hence oversized. Against most advice I use one of those small pencil type gas torches (refilled from a cigarette lighter refill) but make sure the flame is kept on the nipple and only briefly on the cable. You can see that when up to temperature the solder disappears into the splayed out cable and runs inside the nipple due to capillary action.

But of  course everyone has their own technique.