Polished parts and crank sludge trap.

Started by MITCHELL, 21 February, 2023, 18:08:20

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MITCHELL

Hi. I checked on some parts,rocker cover and side casings that I had polished a couple of months back and they're showing signs of corrosion. Any suggestions on how to keep them from deteriorating would be appreciated.
I'm struggling to remove the screw to access the crank sludge trap....any suggestions.
And as a matter of interest I came across this BSA engine from I believe a lawn mower, never seen or heard of its like before.

Pete Gill

I think ACF 50 spray is good to protect against corrosion.

bikerbob

#2
If the sludge trap screws are of the slottedtype they can be a pain to get out I used an impact screwdriver. Bsa did make stationary engines they come up for sale from time to time on ebay I think they are 420cc. As for your polished cases I use Solvol Autosol and mine stand in the garage all winter without any sign of corrosion just needing a light polish in the spring.

MITCHELL

Thanks both, it is the slotted type screw, tried the impact driver to no avail. It's been soaking in penetrating oil for a day or so now so will have another go tomorrow. The engine is only small 50 cc max.Will look into the acf 50. Thanks Dave.

Spaceman

Post WW2, BSA moved into making stationary engines ranging from about 50 cc all the way up to 420 cc. A similar one to this was sold recently but there was some uncertainty as to whether it was 50 cc or 65 cc. The BSA production was taken over by Villiers in the later 1960's and the BSA one sold actually had a Villiers handbook. They came with a keyed output shaft to drive a range of machinery but could well have been adapted for use on a lawn mower. Lovely little engine to play around with :)

MITCHELL

Thanks for the info spaceman. Got the sludge trap screw out,ground an old tool down to perfect fit and applied a bit of heat. Now after help with the sludge trap itself, does it have to come out of can I just clean it all out and if it does have to come out am I right in thinking I can drift it out through the small hole in the opposite end to the screw cap. Cheers Dave.

Alan wray

ACF 50 anti corrosion formula is brilliant. I cover the bike at the start of winter and i come out of it looking just as good. I wash a couple of times and re apply. Watch getting it onto disk brakes and tyres as it is very slipy'

scifi

I think any waxy compound should keep the corrosion at bay.  Diesel is a cheap alternative.
Also make sure your garage is dry; wooden ones are best.   i have a concrete garage, and also a steel shipping container that are not so good at low humidity.   The steel container often has condensation on the inner walls on cold winter days.

Stubaker58

Not sure which bike you have but on my B40 once I'd got the sludge trap plug out it was a case of scraping out the debris of years, there is no inner tube that needs to come out like there is on some bikes.
If you're not splitting the crank take care not to flush the debris back down to the big end.

ChrisG

Always take the sludge trap out to clean it and the inside of the crank fully. You will need to remove the bolt in the flywheel as it has an extension which holds the sludge trap in place.