Taps for oil feed line

[Greenfield]

Here's a photo of the one on my B40. Chaz, they're brilliant.

[AdrianS]

you do need about 3 inches to fit the valve and connectors in. It is a bit tight on the B40 but should be doable. The valve has connectors at each end and I bought a bike with such an arrangement on. There were slight oil weeps from both connectors which did look messy. I took the tap off when I rebuilt the engine as I had no problems with wet sumping.
The valve consists of a large ball bearing held against a seat by a not too powerful spring. Not much suction force is needed to allow oil to flow.
As I said earlier, the only way it could fail would be if the ball bearing gets gummed up to its seat and that probably be with old dirty oil left for a long time standing which may gum up the ball. If the spring failed, the valve would just open.

[Phil C]

Two final questions:

1.  I guess they can be taken apart once in a while for cleaning?

2.  Before I go ahead and order, just one more query: I think I read somewhere that if there were an air lock in the system, it could fail, resulting in disaster. Is that true?   

Phil

[Phil C]

Ordered one anyway.  Phil

[Mike Farmer]

For me defo the cut of valve. Never had a problem and no wet sump.

Alternate!!!drain plug on bottom plate.

Mike

[JulianS]

The internals of the Bri Tie valve are retained by a circlip so  you may be able to take it apart, however if you want to clean it why not just flush it through with a carb cleaner spray? Easier and no risk of causing damage.

I used one on my A10 for a while, it worked fine and I never considered it needed cleaning. I only stopped using it because a new SRM pump completely stopped the wet sumping.

[Phil C]

I wonder, just out of interest: why does the original, deep in the bowels of the engine, fail in the first place?

Phil

[JulianS]

If an engine wet sumps it may not be or may not just be the valve in the crank case. Oil can also leak into the sump by a badly mounted, badly assembled, worn or damaged oil pump before the oil actually reaches the crankcase valve.

[Mike Farmer]

 

Please read only as an opinion.

Of the thousands sold, i've never heard of one failing. Like Julian, I have only stopped fitting them because,tho expensive, I now fit SRM pump as standard.

Mike

[Phil C]

I'm looking forward to mine arriving this coming week.  Phil

[Phil C]

Afternoon everyone,

Received the Brie-Tie valve and was intending to fit it this week, having heard good things about them on this forum from people whose opinions I respect and value.  Thought I'd just check the opinion of a well-known classic bike mechanic, and to my disappointment he said he wouldn't fit an external in-line ball and spring valve. his reason being that about twenty years ago he came across one (not the same type, it was made with round tube, but had a flow-direction arrow on it as does this one) on a Norton (Commando, I think he said) which had a seized engine, due to an external ball and spring valve having failed, apparently due to the spring being too stiff. Since then, he wouldn't fit any such valve working on the ball and spring principle.

So, oh dear, that was not what I wanted to hear, as you can imagine, and it has stopped me in my tracks a bit. I guess the fact that that twenty years ago one was no good doesn't mean this one isn't, so I'm probably still minded to fit it, but with a bit more of a slight niggling worry. I'm sure you can understand that.

Any thoughts/comments?

Phil

[Mike Farmer]

 

Hi I can only repeat that I have never heard of one failing. That one failed many years ago I accept, However I am prepared to guess that no-one on our site has had or heard of a failure. More than happy to be corrected.

Mike

[JulianS]

You are bound to get differing opinions - did your mechanic suggest another course of action?

You need to balance everything you have learned so far and decide which way you want to proceed.

If in doubt another course of action is to strip the motor and deal with whatever is causing the wet sumping

[AdrianS]

As Julian says. Choices are to strip the engine and sort out the cause of wet sumping, accept the situation and fit a sump drain plug, fit an in line tap or valve.
Everyone knows someone who knows someone that something has happened too. This leads to exaggerated claims but is not true in the real world.
If an in line valve had a very firm spring, it wouldn’t work from day 1. I don’t see how it could fail over time as the spring should get slightly weaker. Just feel the strength of the spring in the valve you have bought. It doesn’t take much to open it. It will only fail if it gets gummed up with sludge that is left to settle over a long period of time and then it may still work.

[idie]

I have one fitted to my M33, B33 and Shooting Star.