Oil tap recommendations?

[chaz]

thats wher ours is lleaking, if not that part the mating part that comes out of the oil tank fitting.
one of our jobs in the early days was lapping in steam train valves.
grinding compound , keeping the joint faces square walking around chatting until a uniform colour on both parts.

another job for the weekend..

[chaz]

following this up, rummaging through my airline pipework connectors, I found a Euro connector, a minute on the lathe and Ive just left a small witness to allow the pipe and clamp grip on. could optionally turn a coarse finish to allow grip.
this adaptor is 1/4BSP and deep enough not to worry the joint on the oil tank fitting. seals up with ptfe tape also if you suffer wet sump, a 1/4 to 1/4BSP tap in between.

[Phil C]

Hi Chaz, Where do you put the PTFE tape? Phil

[chaz]

on the bottom of the oil tank fitting,  that has the filter on is a 1/4BSP thread and the cone flange, which on mine is damaged and wont seal on the new piece. that cone joint needs to be seated correctly, this piece does away with the cone joint.
I would otherwise use Loctite 542 which is a red joint compound for BSP fittings, we use on vacuum brake joints so is safe.
40-8328 retails at £22.45+vat for the new filter housing, the brass fitting takes the place of 14-042 and 40-8322 £1 and £4.97 +vat and cost me nothing .

[Phil C]

Just to finish this discussion: Having bought two of those taps, and tried to stop them leaking, in the end I gave up on them and bought a different kind: one from Kingpin Components, with a cut-out switch (see pic.) This one doesn't leak.  Very pleased with it. The cut-out operates so that you can't start the engine unless the oil tap is turned on. But, that said, I think if the ignition key were turned to the emergency setting then you could start the engine even if you'd forgotten to turn the oil on. Can't see me doing that though.    Phil