A65 basket case

[Pippinz]

New to the forum and in desperate need of help.

I bought one a week or two ago and straight away had some issues with the clutch slipping so made a few adjustment and read about the oil being possible overfilled and too heavy but I want to bring this bike back to life and getting to understand it First seems to take priority over making it shine.

It is a 69 thunderbird with 3 spring clutch so I took the cover off removed the plates but was surprised to find seven steel 5 friction. The last steel plate having fallen off the guides sitting behind the clutch centre. To remove it I had to lift and rotate it until the key matched and struggled to then get it off.
Is somethind missing as this surely can't be right. I have read about thicker steel plates but it still make no sense that the plate can fall off the back of the clutch centre. I have read numerous articles and forums and I'm not even sure which order they should go in.

It would make more sense for a friction plate first as at least it would be held in the chain wheel but I put it back together without the extra plate and I need to screw the nuts right up and still didn't have enough pressure to engage the engine.

Before looking at it I ordered a 7 plate friction plate set thinking it would cure all but I'm now trying to get my head around what is happening.

I live in derby and would appreciate some guidance on the matter.

Initially the bike felt like it was slipping did a few changes that not disengaging the parts I've inspected so seem in good condition but I'm surprised at the gap between clutch centre and chain wheel and taking one of the steel plates out means I can't get sufficient pressure on the basket.

Love the bike so I'm guessing I'll be a regular on here

[Bess]

Hi,
    I have attached some specs for the 3 spring clutch, hope these help...

[JulianS]

Sounds like a bodger has got at your clutch.

It should have 6 plain and 6 bonded plates. Bonded plate in first. I am suprised there is sufficient space for a plate to slip between chainwheel and hub. That needs careful checking.

The thick plate was a feature of the pre 1966 4 spring item.

Attached a cross section of the 3 spring clutch and an illustration from the 1969 owners handbook.

[Pippinz]

Hallelujah

Starting to make sense, all the parts look brand new but there is one more steel than there should be. Six and six would make more sense as the first friction plate runs down the guide in the clutch drive and can't fall between the gap. However I'm one friction short which will be sorted as I have already ordered a seven plate kit.

My concern now is do I need to pull the clutch center off? The basket doesn't have any play but the bodge on the plates has concerned me.

I'm hoping to be able to get a puller behind the clutch center but after that I have read so many problems with extractor tools being stripped on the threads trying to remove the last part.

My other thought is I've gone this far on such a vital part that I may as well finish the job and inspect the roller bearing whilst and drive rubbers.

I'm starting to realize what I have got myself into but it's been many a year since I've had such a broad smile on my face.

Thanks for the advice and help really appreciated.

[JulianS]

It is hard to beat the proper puller. Most owners have no problems using the tool. Not much space to get a different puller behind the clutch.

[Trev]

I'm hoping to be able to get a puller behind the clutch center but after that I have read so many problems with extractor tools being stripped on the threads trying to remove the last part.

These are the instructions that came with my puller, I have yet to use it though! Correct Puller use; "Only tighten the extraction bolt gradually and once tight a quarter turn at a time. Once tight, tap the end of the extraction bolt with a metal hammer after each quarter turn until the taper is broken"

[JulianS]

Have had a similar extractor for my A10 since 1973........... no problems and has been very many times.

The main thing is to slacken the bolt fully then screw the tool in as far as it will go. Only screw it in a few turns then the chance is you may strip a thread from the tool. The clutch centre is quite hard.

[ROYC]

the oil being possible overfilled and too heavy

I am using ATF Dexron 3.

[Pippinz]

I think the book recommends castrolight but I'll find something around 10-30 weight and ensure I don't overfill it. The biggest fix by far is putting the correct number of plates in and in the correct order.

I'm away this week but will pull the clutch basket out for peace of mind and I have an extractor tool and also know how it should be used thanks to Trev. It is a throw back to a distant era where people had to understand the components and how they work which is why I'm so hooked on a bike which I have ridden for 2 miles and is in a number of parts around the garage floor.

I will try to post a conclusion to this thread after the weekend but I'm sure I will require some more information. Wait out..........again thank you

[Bess]

Hi Pippinz,
               Lubrication questions often appear on this forum, my stock answer: 

Here is a good article regarding lub:-

     http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/oil030319.html

Best wishes....

[Pippinz]

Thanks to all the help and advice.

Thrust washer and bearings checked, 14 plates put back in correctly and operating as it should, imposssible to do without the correct tool and advice on how to use it.

Head lamp now held in with the correct W clips not tape, rear brake light connector replaced, high low - horn switch replaced and the lights work as they should.

Cotterpin in the kickstart given a good tap and now secure.

Pancakes changed as the plugs sooted up but wil lean up the carb when I can get hold of a colour tune.

Best news I was actually able to use it today for the first time since I bought it and happy I did.