hi guys

some b25 tips as promised
WHEN REMOVING FLYWHEELS FROM CRANK REMEMBER TO MARK THEM WITH ALIGNMENT MARKS FIRST TO MAKE THEM EASIER TO FIT BACK ON .
CLEAN UP BIG END JOURNALS USING LONG STRIPS WET AND DRY USING OIL AND SMOOTH GRADES CUT STRIPS FROM A SHEET ALMOST THE WIDTH OF THE JOURNAL AND USE A BACK AND FORTH MOTION ALL AROUND THE JOURNAL EVENLY  > IT REMOVES HARDLY ANY METAL BUT STILL MEASURE YOUR JOURNAL FOR OVALITY LIMITS ETC FINALLY FINISH OFF WITH LONG STRIP OF CLOTH AND
SOLVOL AUTOSOL FOR A FINAL POLISH AND REMEMBER TO FLUSH OUT OILWAYS AFTER IT MAY
SAVE YOU A REGRIND IF NOT TOO SEVERELY DAMAGED .
AFTER PUTTING THE CRANKCASE HALVES TOGETHER AND CRANK AND CONROD IN PLACE ,
PUT A SHORT PIECE OF TIGHT FITTING TRANSPARENT HOSE ON TO THE END FEED ON THE
CRANK THEN USING AN OIL CAN  FILL THE HOSE WITH ENGINE OIL > ATTACH A TAPER FITTING
FOR BLOWING UP AIR BEDS ETC AND A FOOTPUMP WITH AN AIR GAUGE ON IT AND SEE HOW MUCH PRESSURE IT TAKES TO OVERCOME THE BIG END SHELLS ETC  THE OIL ALSO LUBRICATES
THE BIG END AGAIN MINE BROKE AWAY AT APPROX 20LBS PRESSURE DONT KNOW IF THATS GOOD OR BAD BUT A VERY LOW READING MIGHT INDICATE TROUBLE SOMEWHERE .
I WARM UP PISTONS USING A PAINT STRIPPER HOT AIR GUN ELECTRIC
ITS EASIER TO FIT THE PISTON WITH RINGS TO THE CYLINDER BARREL FIRST BY HAND
THEN FIT WHOLE ASSEMBLY TO CRANKCASE LINING UP CONROD HOLE +GUDGEON PIN .
2 OLD CHAINCASE BOLTS FIT THE DUPLEX DRIVE SPROCKET AND THEN USE " LEG PULLER TO
DRAW OFF WITH CHAIN STILL ATTACHED IF TIGHT .
YOU CAN INSPECT THE BIG END WITHOUT STRIPPING THE WHOLE ENGINE BY REMOVING THE FRONT ENGINE BOLT AND BOTTOM ENGINE BOLT THEN SLACKEN OFF THE REAR ENGINE BOLT TO ALLOW THE ENGINE TO PIVOT UPWARDS REMEMBER TO STRIP THE BARREL AND HEAD OFF OF COURSE . STRIP THE PRIMARY SIDE  BEFORE SLACKENING ENGINE BOLTS THEN JACK UP THE ENGINE USING PROTECTIVE WOOD UNDER THE SUMP  DO IT SLOWLY WATCHING FOR OIL HOSES GETTING TIGHT ETC UNTIL PRIMARY CRANKCASE CLEARS FRAME RAILS THEN UNBOLT IT AND
REMOVE > YOU NOW HAVE ACCESS TO THE CRANK , YOU CAN ONLY DO THIS ON THE LATER 2 PIECE ROLLER BEARING TYPE ENGINE > THEN REMOVE CONROD BOLTS USING THIN LONG SOCKET EXTENSION BAR 3/8 OR 1/4 AT A PUSH . REMEMBER RE TORQUING CONROD BOLTS ACCURATELY
USING AN EXTENSION WONT BE EASY TO A SET FIGURE . I HAD TO DO THIS DUE TO A SMALL PIECE OF SWARF JAMMING THE CONROD > HONEST I MUST HAVE FLUSHED IT OUT 10 TIMES OR MORE BEFOREHAND > A GOOD JOB I WAS ONLY TURNING THE ENGINE BY HAND >  THIS TIP IS ONLY GOOD IF YOU KNOW THE STATE OF YOUR ENGINE OTHERWISE STRIP COMPLETELY AS USUAL
WORN DOGS ON A GEARWHEEL MAY THEORETICALLY BE RECLAIMED BY USING AN ARC WELDER
OR STICK WELDER THEN RE PROFILING > THE METAL MAY NOT BE AS TOUGH AS THE ORIGINAL
BUT IF SAID GEARWHEEL IS UNOBTAINABLE THEN IT MIGHT JUST SAVE THE DAY SO DONT THROW
WORN ONES AWAY . MORE TIPS LATER ANY CRITICISMS WELCOME REGARDS JOHNBOY .

Thanks for the reply and advice. I have ordered a new spring from Draganfly although the old one looks okay. I will fit that first if it remains the same I will try your suggestion.

Many thanks again.

copied from the www

Vibration Damping
All internal combustion engines create vibration. Some more than others, but they all do. You’ll feel the most vibration coming out of single and twin cylinder engines. Four cylinder engines, by contrast, are quite smooth, though you might notice high frequency buzzing at higher engine speeds in some cases. Generally speaking, the more cylinders you have, the smoother your engine will feel. Engines, of course, are mounted to a rigid frame. A swiveling fork is attached to that frame, and your handlebars are somehow attached to that fork. Without getting too scientific, the engine’s vibration travels up through the frame and into the handlebars, which then experience what is known as “resonant frequency.” In a nutshell, bar ends help to isolate, or at least minimize the frequency as it is transferred up through the engine. They do this because they are weighted, but we are talking ounces/grams, so there’s no need to worry about any detriment to your ability to steer smoothly. Trust their design, and all will be well.

Often wondered how bar end weights actually work, do you have to work out how much weight you need?. Roy

1959 C15, no rubber in top yoke.