Recent Posts

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91
Singles / 1967 C15 star main stand
« Last post by Tamesider on 10 September, 2019, 23:01:57 »
Hi can anyone help regarding my c15 main stand.I wonder as anybody modified or know anyone that has modified the stand to make it easier to use.ie welding on an arm like on a lot of bikes to use as a cantilever to stand on that lifts the bike on to stand..
92
Singles / some b25 tips
« Last post by JOHN KAY on 10 September, 2019, 21:04:17 »
 hi guys

some b25 tips as promised
WHEN REMOVING FLYWHEELS FROM CRANK REMEMBER TO MARK THEM WITH ALIGNMENT MARKS FIRST TO MAKE THEM EASIER TO FIT BACK ON .
CLEAN UP BIG END JOURNALS USING LONG STRIPS WET AND DRY USING OIL AND SMOOTH GRADES CUT STRIPS FROM A SHEET ALMOST THE WIDTH OF THE JOURNAL AND USE A BACK AND FORTH MOTION ALL AROUND THE JOURNAL EVENLY  > IT REMOVES HARDLY ANY METAL BUT STILL MEASURE YOUR JOURNAL FOR OVALITY LIMITS ETC FINALLY FINISH OFF WITH LONG STRIP OF CLOTH AND
SOLVOL AUTOSOL FOR A FINAL POLISH AND REMEMBER TO FLUSH OUT OILWAYS AFTER IT MAY
SAVE YOU A REGRIND IF NOT TOO SEVERELY DAMAGED .
AFTER PUTTING THE CRANKCASE HALVES TOGETHER AND CRANK AND CONROD IN PLACE ,
PUT A SHORT PIECE OF TIGHT FITTING TRANSPARENT HOSE ON TO THE END FEED ON THE
CRANK THEN USING AN OIL CAN  FILL THE HOSE WITH ENGINE OIL > ATTACH A TAPER FITTING
FOR BLOWING UP AIR BEDS ETC AND A FOOTPUMP WITH AN AIR GAUGE ON IT AND SEE HOW MUCH PRESSURE IT TAKES TO OVERCOME THE BIG END SHELLS ETC  THE OIL ALSO LUBRICATES
THE BIG END AGAIN MINE BROKE AWAY AT APPROX 20LBS PRESSURE DONT KNOW IF THATS GOOD OR BAD BUT A VERY LOW READING MIGHT INDICATE TROUBLE SOMEWHERE .
I WARM UP PISTONS USING A PAINT STRIPPER HOT AIR GUN ELECTRIC
ITS EASIER TO FIT THE PISTON WITH RINGS TO THE CYLINDER BARREL FIRST BY HAND
THEN FIT WHOLE ASSEMBLY TO CRANKCASE LINING UP CONROD HOLE +GUDGEON PIN .
2 OLD CHAINCASE BOLTS FIT THE DUPLEX DRIVE SPROCKET AND THEN USE " LEG PULLER TO
DRAW OFF WITH CHAIN STILL ATTACHED IF TIGHT .
YOU CAN INSPECT THE BIG END WITHOUT STRIPPING THE WHOLE ENGINE BY REMOVING THE FRONT ENGINE BOLT AND BOTTOM ENGINE BOLT THEN SLACKEN OFF THE REAR ENGINE BOLT TO ALLOW THE ENGINE TO PIVOT UPWARDS REMEMBER TO STRIP THE BARREL AND HEAD OFF OF COURSE . STRIP THE PRIMARY SIDE  BEFORE SLACKENING ENGINE BOLTS THEN JACK UP THE ENGINE USING PROTECTIVE WOOD UNDER THE SUMP  DO IT SLOWLY WATCHING FOR OIL HOSES GETTING TIGHT ETC UNTIL PRIMARY CRANKCASE CLEARS FRAME RAILS THEN UNBOLT IT AND
REMOVE > YOU NOW HAVE ACCESS TO THE CRANK , YOU CAN ONLY DO THIS ON THE LATER 2 PIECE ROLLER BEARING TYPE ENGINE > THEN REMOVE CONROD BOLTS USING THIN LONG SOCKET EXTENSION BAR 3/8 OR 1/4 AT A PUSH . REMEMBER RE TORQUING CONROD BOLTS ACCURATELY
USING AN EXTENSION WONT BE EASY TO A SET FIGURE . I HAD TO DO THIS DUE TO A SMALL PIECE OF SWARF JAMMING THE CONROD > HONEST I MUST HAVE FLUSHED IT OUT 10 TIMES OR MORE BEFOREHAND > A GOOD JOB I WAS ONLY TURNING THE ENGINE BY HAND >  THIS TIP IS ONLY GOOD IF YOU KNOW THE STATE OF YOUR ENGINE OTHERWISE STRIP COMPLETELY AS USUAL
WORN DOGS ON A GEARWHEEL MAY THEORETICALLY BE RECLAIMED BY USING AN ARC WELDER
OR STICK WELDER THEN RE PROFILING > THE METAL MAY NOT BE AS TOUGH AS THE ORIGINAL
BUT IF SAID GEARWHEEL IS UNOBTAINABLE THEN IT MIGHT JUST SAVE THE DAY SO DONT THROW
WORN ONES AWAY . MORE TIPS LATER ANY CRITICISMS WELCOME REGARDS JOHNBOY .


93
The Star and Garter / The Distinguished Gentleman's Ride
« Last post by BEEZABRYAN on 10 September, 2019, 19:43:28 »
After last year Derbyshire DGR I was knackered for a while afterwards, Marie suggested that being the third ride it might be time to call it a day.
I'd settled for that  & sponsored a few riders home and abroad.
But now I've looked at the route, and I like it.
Best so far and if need be I could join it part way at the tea & coffee stop.
Made me think that maybe I could do just one more DGR, I still have good days & not so good days but with luck Sunday 29th September will be one of the good days.

Please be kind enough to have a look at this -

https://www.gentlemansride.com/rider/BeezaBryan

because I'm now holding my cap out for all & any sponsorship, the price of a pint  or more (ale or oil) would be greatly appreciated :)
94
Twins / Re: Third gear
« Last post by Rory57 on 10 September, 2019, 19:24:01 »
Thanks for the reply and advice. I have ordered a new spring from Draganfly although the old one looks okay. I will fit that first if it remains the same I will try your suggestion.

Many thanks again.
95
Singles / Lucas 15d capacitor
« Last post by AdrianS on 10 September, 2019, 18:25:34 »
Has anyone got a good source for the capacitor for the 15d distributor?
The one fitted to mine is not a 15d one; the holder for the felt pad is on the wrong side of it but the capacitor fits the distributor.
The bikes working fine but without the felt lubricating pad for the points cam. Just a bit concerned that the modern points heel may wear out quickly if not lubricated!
96
Singles / Re: Handlebar vibration
« Last post by chaz on 10 September, 2019, 18:15:42 »
copied from the www

Vibration Damping
All internal combustion engines create vibration. Some more than others, but they all do. You’ll feel the most vibration coming out of single and twin cylinder engines. Four cylinder engines, by contrast, are quite smooth, though you might notice high frequency buzzing at higher engine speeds in some cases. Generally speaking, the more cylinders you have, the smoother your engine will feel. Engines, of course, are mounted to a rigid frame. A swiveling fork is attached to that frame, and your handlebars are somehow attached to that fork. Without getting too scientific, the engine’s vibration travels up through the frame and into the handlebars, which then experience what is known as “resonant frequency.” In a nutshell, bar ends help to isolate, or at least minimize the frequency as it is transferred up through the engine. They do this because they are weighted, but we are talking ounces/grams, so there’s no need to worry about any detriment to your ability to steer smoothly. Trust their design, and all will be well.
97
The Star and Garter / Re: Grease nipples
« Last post by Phil C on 10 September, 2019, 18:13:34 »
Thanks very much
98
Singles / Re: Handlebar vibration
« Last post by royblackburn1@btinternet. on 10 September, 2019, 18:01:05 »
Often wondered how bar end weights actually work, do you have to work out how much weight you need?. Roy
99
Twins / Re: Third gear
« Last post by Editor on 10 September, 2019, 16:44:42 »
The return spring is probably cracked or broken or may need adjusting. It happens a lot. Take the outer cover off and take a look. If there is evidence of it being mis-shapen or cracked, it will be obvious. If it needs adjusting then one of the legs will be standing off the pressed steel cup. This cup has a bolt hole in the centre which is eccentric to the outer dia. Just slacken off the screw and turn it until both legs touch.
Good luck
Chris
100
Singles / Re: Handlebar vibration
« Last post by B Murphy on 10 September, 2019, 15:35:46 »
1959 C15, no rubber in top yoke.

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