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61
Pre War / BSA L28/29/30
« Last post by Triton on 15 April, 2018, 22:23:53 »
1928-30 Two Stroke. Does anyone have one of these who can measure the outside flywheel. I have an engine with this bit missing. Thanks SW
62
Singles / Re: Dents in frame
« Last post by staffs on 15 April, 2018, 21:22:16 »
Thanks, Yes it is a BSA. The dents are fairly large and long but not creased or sharp and I think the combination of both your suggestions is what I will do. Weld and fill the small ones and weld a shaped tube section over the big ones. I am not a bad welder, very good with an angle grinder to make my welds look better and excellent with a file to make it look like it was never done :D
It will be used more gently these days with me riding it but I will fabricate a bash plate anyway.
63
Singles / Re: C15 starting difficulty
« Last post by ducati2242 on 15 April, 2018, 21:05:09 »
when I first tried to start my newly rebuilt db34 I must have kicked it over 200 times before I got it going . Now , after standing over a week , it starts first kick . Not because I changed anything I just learnt how to do it . So if everything is correct , clean pilot jet as said and timing good , there's probably a knack to it .
64
Singles / Re: Again with the gearchange splines alredy.
« Last post by ducati2242 on 15 April, 2018, 20:53:08 »
Just a thought but if you are having trouble with it can you not alter it so that it is similar to the kick start and fit a small cotter pin through the lever . It will be in a fixed position so it will need to be in the correct place first time .
65
Singles / Re: Again with the gearchange splines alredy.
« Last post by Barney Rubble on 15 April, 2018, 20:31:39 »
I think the problem with the BSA gear change shaft is that they are not made from hardened steel and hence the splines are fairly easily damaged. This is in contrast to my slightly more modern bike's gear change shaft which is almost impossible to damage.
Which is what we need for this job, indeed. The repair to the shaft would need doing first, then any heat treatment carried out. In the interim, I may just drill the shaft and put a roll pin thru.The previous owner had partly drilled the shaft any way- only snag is roll pins can be hard to get out again, and that might be a problem that could cause damge to the cases.  :-\
66
Singles / Re: C15 starting difficulty
« Last post by AWJDThumper on 15 April, 2018, 18:46:12 »
The tickler is the cold starting device on the AMAL carb - a choke is there to make warming up the engine a little easier. Difficult starting could be due to a number of things but I'd start to cleaning out the carb and blowing though the passageways and the jets. From memory, I think the pilot air mixture screw should be screwed out about 1.5 turns as a starting point. In terms of initial starting, it is just the pilot jet and its air passageway that matter.
67
Singles / Re: Again with the gearchange splines alredy.
« Last post by AWJDThumper on 15 April, 2018, 18:37:32 »
I think the problem with the BSA gear change shaft is that they are not made from hardened steel and hence the splines are fairly easily damaged. This is in contrast to my slightly more modern bike's gear change shaft which is almost impossible to damage.
68
Singles / Again with the gearchange splines alredy.
« Last post by Barney Rubble on 15 April, 2018, 18:06:08 »
Further to my previous post, regarding worn splines on gear pedal and shaft; noting the replacements that are available, being a short piece of splined shaft to attach to old one when worn bit is cut off. Well, TBH, I do not like the look of the new ones- they are as good as the originals, but there is the rub. I think the splines are too weedy and not of a good depth or profile, and as such, will not stand up to any loosening of the pinch bolt. it does not take much wobbling about on the splines to trash them again. Definitely not good quality, even as newly made.

SO!

I am thinking about getting a shaft from something else that is the same diameter, but with more modern, deeper and more robust splines, with a matching pedal. Probably Jap, maybe Italian, (Fantic moped?), to put onto my old shaft and hopefully stand up better than originals or current replacements. The Fantic Ti had a lovely ally pedal which never came loose. The pic below is an Aprilia Pegaso one.Or maybe get a shaft like I want made, by an engineering outfit, to fit as per above. Food for thought? Anyone know who might make one to drawing, if necessary? Cheers folks.

 
69
Twins / Re: OIF steering head bearing cups
« Last post by A10 JWO on 15 April, 2018, 18:02:23 »
Did mine recently. The bottom will drift out from the top and the top from the bottom. Don't hit the two abutment rings that sit in the frame on two ridges in the frame. These rings locate the cups and do a good job. Look at Dragonfly's parts breakdown it will explain a bit more. You can re-use the abutment rings. Hope this helps.
70
Twins / A65 OIF Amal to frame clearance on Thunderbolt only.
« Last post by A10 JWO on 15 April, 2018, 17:56:31 »
Getting close to finishing this restoration. Just fitted a brand Amal standard carb, supplied with Top Hats. Quite surprised how little clearance there is between the the top of the carb and the frame. I have an expensive billet Amal throttle with no adjustment. I need some advice on dealing with throttle and choke connections with this lack of clearance please.

I would like to thank everyone for there advice so far helping me build this box of bits with a V5.
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