Recent Posts

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21
The Star and Garter / Pretty as a picture
« Last post by Mike Farmer on Today at 10:04:31 »
 :) :) :)

Looks like it just grew there

Mike 8) 8) 8)
22
Twins / Re: Third gear
« Last post by Rory57 on Today at 09:58:05 »
Many thanks for for your help and information. I will order the right spring now. I have the later clutch system so cannot fit the two coil spring as it fouls it. I will have another look. I was stuck in traffic going into Harwich for probably 30 mins or so after a non stop 60 mile plus run so it was probably running pretty hot. 
23
The Star and Garter / "Smart" chargers
« Last post by berniej on Today at 08:34:05 »
I have bikes with both 6 and 12V electrics and normally use a 'smart' charger when needed.

However, I've found that these will not charge a fully discharged battery - if the detected battery voltage is below a minimum threshold they will just display an error code.

I accidentally left the pilot/tail lights switched on and my 6V Bantam battery is totally flat and I'm currently (!) unable to charge it.

Does anyone know of a simple, old-fashioned transformer/rectifier type charger that will deliver 6V - or an alternative way to get some charge into my battery (bearing in mind that I'm in a field in Germany for the next week!) - I was wondering if a 5V phone charger might get enough into it for the smart charger to then be happy to take over....

Cheers,
Bernie
24
Singles / Re: C10 primary oil.
« Last post by chaz on Today at 08:10:54 »
cant help with the C15 but from previous BSA B40 and A50/65 experience its a common problem. the design has the drive shaft passing through crankcase into the primary case, there was a single brass or phos bronze bush fitted with a groove cut internally that runs opposite running direction that theoretically returns oil. single bush has been replaced by two shorter ones possibly a production reason .

https://www.draganfly.co.uk/images/shop/c15/gearbox.jpg part no 40-3021

https://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/component/hikashop/product/7160- says needs two but do not look to be grooved. if so have a word with an engineering shop and see if they can cut one or find a similar and get ground down. maybe if access to a lathe make your own.

there was a quick fix of fitting a felt washer to take up the play and soak oil up. maybe bush worn as steel in brass, grooves worn, I doubt it is seal 40-25 but possible not probable
25
The Star and Garter / Re: Carb washer
« Last post by chaz on 14 September, 2019, 22:14:14 »
ethanol, the curse in modern fuel. eats copper, brass, paper, rubber.

remind me what materials are used in carbs???

oh yes!!
26
Singles / C10 primary oil.
« Last post by Rick Rybicki on 14 September, 2019, 21:32:28 »
Come on guys......help! Posted a few weeks ago but no replies...... 1946 C10. How do I stop crankcase oil filling up my primary case. I mean like half a pint in 20/30 miles. Not taken the primary side off yet but it appears that oil seals weren't fitted until some years later. What can I do to solve the problem? HELP!
27
The Star and Garter / Re: Carb washer
« Last post by griffo on 14 September, 2019, 21:16:55 »
Old style washer, new style petrol...   Griff
28
Which BSA do you ride? / Re: What to ride ?
« Last post by chaz on 14 September, 2019, 20:23:14 »
Tough one Griff!

Well, I chose my D10 as I needed it in another place ready to put on my motorhome for an upcoming trip.
Battery was flat as the light switch must have been knocked on last time I put the cover on.

So I went off in the 'E' position and after a while, on a long straight, switched to 'I' to charge the battery.

All was fine until I had to slow and the engine died. Switched back to 'E' before I stopped and it fired up again but so did the fuel in the exhaust pipe and, with a loud bang, the end cap and baffles disappeared behind me! Managed to go back and recover but the surprising thing was that the bike was a lot more lively without it - a lot more noisy too!!

Reminded me of mis-spent youth  ;D

Cheers,
Bernie

will be faster as no back pressure and stifling , hence superbikes and cars having bigger performance exhausts BUT, would also need open carb as exhaust out quicker then needs fuel in quicker. watch out for too much noise as the speed police are now converting speed cameras to noise cameras.

remember the early days and mopeds running without air filters or air box covers. noisy
29
Twins / Re: A65rebuild
« Last post by Editor on 14 September, 2019, 17:16:17 »
I use Nickel plating for everything that's likely to get splashed with road wash (salt lingers for ages). Other items I go for zinc and clear passivate. You need to clean all the paint and rust off first, easily done with a rotary wire brush. A lot cheaper than replacing everything with stainless, but each to their own as they say.
Chris
30
Singles / Re: Front forks oil quantity
« Last post by AdrianS on 14 September, 2019, 15:43:51 »
I believe the main tool you need is the tool to un screw the retaining ring that holds the forks together. I made mine out of a piece of tubing, ground some of the end off to leave 2 prongs that engage in the cut outs in the retaining ring. I then welded some " handles " onto the tube so I could turn it.
There is a video on youtube showing someone removing the bushes and showing the tool and its dimensions he is using. I don't think it is a B40 but some very similar forks of another BSA.
I will say that 1. The forks are very basic and when mine had new bushes I still got a bit of knocking through them on rough roads.
2. I use 10/40 oil in mine to try to improve the damping a bit but to be honest it doesn't make much difference,3. If you drain the oil out of them, it usually looks very dirty after only a short amount of time ( true also with modern bikes!)
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