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Singles / Re: bsa ss90 b40
« Last post by JulianS on Today at 19:53:45 »
Below are pages from Glass's motorcycle check books from the 1960s.

You can see it was not that popular, the B40F SS90 between September 1964 and August 1965 from engine 101 to engine 295.

The earlier engines I dont think you will see a B40SS number above 600.

US models not included in these figures.

You will not find out how many are left or registered.
Singles / bsa ss90 b40
« Last post by garywebb on Today at 18:19:47 »
can anyone tell me how many ss90's were made please? and how many are still about or registered.
Twins / Re: '71 A65L valve timing
« Last post by JulianS on Today at 16:26:53 »
The 15 thou needs to be set when the cam is on its base circle, that is in the normal position for tappet setting - set inlet when other inlet is fully open.
Twins / Re: '71 A65L valve timing
« Last post by AWJDThumper on Today at 16:19:15 »
If the valve opening and closing times are specified at 0.015" gap then that is what the tappet clearance must be set at. What you then need to sense is when the valve starts to open or just starts to close. The most accurate way is to put a dial gauge on the valve stem or collet - you can't sense valve opening/closing by putting the gauge on the rocker arm or adjuster.

The purpose of the 0.015" specified gap is that it takes into account the quietening ramps on the cams. Simply measure the opening and closing angles with that gap set and then compare with the specified values. The position of the centre of the cam is neither here nor there!
Twins / '71 A65L valve timing
« Last post by Caulky on Today at 15:39:10 »
Sorry to bring this up, again.
Now, have I got this right?
I have read all that I could find on this subject, but some things are still confusing.
When doing this job, some say the 'clock' should be on the valve collar or on the rocker arm adjuster.
Others say, this is incorrect because the quoted figures are for the pushrods/tappet followers.

Another thing is, people talk about 'lift', do it at .040".
Lift meaning valve lash? It could mean, turn the crank + .040" @ 0.015" lash, after the needle begins to move and read the degree-wheel?
Also, taking the WSM figures for inlet: open 51* BTDC, close 68* ABDC at 0.015" lash.
Using these figures, we have 51+180+68 = 299*. 299/2 = 149.5*.
The cam lobe centre is given as 98.5* crank ATDC, so for the cam centre we subtract 51* from 149.5* = 98.5, OK fine. (this MAY be the lobe peak, but not neccessarily).
But, the quietening cam ramp needs to be avoided, so the measurements need to taken at .040" lash, not at 0.015"
OK so far?
Singles / Re: 1970 B25 Starfire tyres
« Last post by AWJDThumper on Today at 12:14:03 »
For the sort of riding you can do on a B25, I don't think it matters that much what tyres you use, and whether they are matched, as long as you've got a reasonable amount of tread on both. I ride a much higher performance single with semi off road tyres on it and have never experienced any problems with road holding even with these non ideal road tyres.
Singles / 1970 B25 Starfire tyres
« Last post by TAYLOR on Today at 11:46:21 »
I would appreciate any advice about suitable tyres for my 1970 B25 Starfire. I returned to biking 18 months ago but have only done a few hundred miles on the Starfire and still feel a newbie, so apologies in advance if my questions are at a beginner level.

The front tyre is a Kenda 3.25 x 18 and the rear a Mitas 3.50 x 18. I want to renew the rear tyre, my priority being roadholding and grip. I live in a rural area so local roads can be a bit greasy from the passage of agricultural machinery. My question is

a) is it important to have the same make front and rear? If it is, then as Kenda don't appear to make a 3.50 x 18 I would need to replace  both, and

b) which makes would you recommend for good roadholding. As I don't do many miles longevity and wear is not so important as roadholding. I'd rather not have to spend a lot but will if more expensive brands give better grip.

I would be grateful for any advice from more experienced members.

Thank you,

Twins / Re: A65 Fork shafts
« Last post by Mike Farmer on Today at 08:22:17 »
 :) :)
Hi thanks for the offer and I would appreciate that very much. I think I know where I am with this but every little helps. PM to you with email address.
Mike 8)
Twins / Re: Advance timing mark?
« Last post by CROFTY1984 on Today at 08:14:19 »
Hi Jim, that's brilliant, thanks.
Sorry I meant "don't want to" as in "you don't wanna do that!" I have no strong emotional attachment to either solution :)
OK, so set timing rotor mark to pointer, use your photo for reference when fitting. Then strobe!
Thanks again,
Twins / Re: Advance timing mark?
« Last post by Servodyne on 20 April, 2018, 22:47:25 »
Hi Dan
I've been running with the Wassell ignition for over 5 years now and found it to be very reliable. You have to use the pointer on the primary cover I'm afraid; I don't really understand why you wouldn't want to as this indicates the fully advanced position of the crank.
One thing I did discover with the Wassell unit though, was that the static marks on my stator weren't very accurate. The photo shows the position of the marks when I had strobed the ignition at fully advance. In future if I need to disturb the ignition I would set it as near to the photo statically before checking it with the strobe.
Hope this helps.
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