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Topics - LIONELSMITH

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1
Twins / Oil Pipe connections
« on: 23 October, 2023, 15:29:06 »
Simple question 1961 A10 Golden Flash The Oil feed from the Oil tank goes to the higher or lower connection to the crankcase? I thought t was lower, but as I have had the SRM crank bush conversion I have put the spring and ball bearing in the TOP right pump hole and was told this only affect the input side? This could sort my oil feed problems.
Thanks

2
Twins / Rear brake cross shaft lever, Iron or Steel
« on: 25 September, 2023, 11:57:06 »
I am converting the rear brake to Twin Leading Shoe (TLS) on my A10 Golden Flash. I have just taken the rear brake Cross Shaft Lever 42-4530 (other end of the shaft to the brake pedal) and my engineer asked whether it was iron or steel. I assumed steel, does anyone know?

3
Twins / Valve grinder
« on: 11 June, 2023, 22:10:44 »
After a rebuild I cannot start my '61 A10. I leak tested today and it is about as airtight as a sieve through all valves. I know of SRM and found MNR in London but does anyone know of a good valve grinder in the Surrey/West Sussex or North Hants areas?
I am also getting weak orange sparks and have some suggestions from Pazon. I'll sort that after getting the head right.

4
Twins / Starting a rebuild
« on: 15 May, 2023, 15:50:04 »
I have spent too long rebuilding my Golden Flash and am having problems starting. I am getting fuel though, I am getting a spark, it turns over with no issues. I have re-checked the ignition timing and all are OK. Yesterday I thought to check compression without disconnecting the carb on my cheap guage to check I had compression . The right cylinder showed around 50 ft/lbs but
 the left cylinder did not register. I decided to strip down the head again. Having had a double re-bore from standard to 40 thou over, fitted +40 thou new pistons and rings set to 120 degree intervals around the pistons, I was confident of the pistons not leaking. As I had installed new guides and valves for the first time I wondered whether they were air tight. I tried a water test in the upended head with no leak at all.

With it dismantled still, has anybody got any idea what other test I can do or should I strip the head down to regrind the valves again just to see. I do not not have compressed air to do a leak test. I am at a loss to think what else could be causing the problem.
Thanks for any suggestions.

5
Twins / Fork Rebuild problems
« on: 04 September, 2022, 17:34:14 »
I have just rebuilt the forks on my 1961 A10 with new hard chrome forks, bushes and seals. One side is fie the other fork looked shorter when wound back up in position. I tried pumping them by hand, the springing on one was perfect the other I could not move it was rigid. I has released it again and it is stiff to move and rubbing when pumping by hand. Putting the seal in that side was really difficult and cleaning the seal holder it did not feel completely round, but was fine on the bike before. This is the third strip down and I cant think what I've done  has anyone come across this before?

6
Twins / Fork Stanchions
« on: 24 March, 2021, 22:40:10 »
I rebuilt the forks with new Bushes and seals and one leaks heavily, I am therefore looking at new Stanchions. There are polished steel and Hard Chrome, which are original and what are the main differences?
Thanks

7
Twins / Indicator warning lights
« on: 18 March, 2021, 14:50:48 »
I have rebuilt my BSA A10, rewired, designing the loom and added LED Indicators and hazzard warning lights on a new circuit. I can tend to leave indicators on when riding and often don't hear the buzzer. Most indicator warning lights come off the third connector of the relay but I want left and right separate warning lights. I have tried to take them off of the left and right front indicator feed wires but although the LED warning light works, it will not light when power is supplied to the indicators. I am simply attaching the live to the power supply and earthing the earth but have also tried piggybacking both wires from the live (as the LED is a diode) but neither work.
Any hints?

8
Twins / Fitment of new Chain Swing arm A10 1961
« on: 15 June, 2020, 14:54:28 »
I am so far into the total rebuild, it is probably a silly question but the cuts are more plentyful and the patience thin.
Fitting a brand new chain, whilst fitting the front section of the Chaincase. Is there a recommended method of fitment?
Always grateful of assistance.
Lionel

9
Twins / Speedometer Drive Gear
« on: 12 July, 2018, 10:54:05 »
I am putting a Nova gearbox in my STD A10, it does not come with the speedometer drive gear. I went down to see Len Haggis to buy a new STD gear and driven gear after trying email, but, I think from his reaction he only orders for the RRT2 boxes. I cannot find other suppliers. I have tried to remove my current gear by drifting with a metal rod, with heat to no avail, the retaining pin has all been drilled and drifted out. The really annoying thing was that I drifted it in.

Has anyone advice on how I can get the speedometer drive gear out from the layshaft and for that matter how to get it in straight when refitting?

10
Twins / Tight Valve rocker spindles
« on: 07 April, 2018, 17:20:05 »
I have bought new Valve rocker spindles from Supreme motorcycles, now Draganfly, as the old ones are badly scored. One has gone nearly in, just a further 3mm needed, the other has gone in up to the thread but I cant get the thread through. I will not damage either the thread or the oil feed pipe faces, but cannot with brass or hardwood protection push the spindles through any further. I have tried oiling and moving the springs and washers that position the rockers on the shaft In case they are fouling.

Am I missing a trick, is it often this difficult or will I need to start heating the rocker cover? If I heat, how do I stop the billet rocker cover distorting when driving the spindles home?

11
Twins / BSA A10 Gearbox mainshft
« on: 18 September, 2017, 20:37:24 »
I have been waiting for a local racing company to produce a batch of 5 speed gearboxes but is taking forever. Having fitted an oversized needle roller, for the layshaft, that inner plate is now unusable. I have acquired another box and a needle roller layshaft from Draganfly, but my mainshaft, where it goes through the Clutch side bearing, has wear. I have read they can be hard chromed and ground to the correct diameter. I have only found 1 place in the south of England (Hounslow) that can do this. Has anyone a good recommendation of where I can go and an idea of price. Stripping engines, a rewire,12 conversion, electronic ignition new fork springs, I can do, machining is a new game to me.

12
Twins / Needle bearings
« on: 11 June, 2017, 20:24:40 »
I have converted my STD gearbox on my 1961 A10 to needle rollers. As the needle roller has no thrust washer portion that the bush has, there is nothing to hold it in place. Should I arrange to have a groove machined for a spring washer?

13
Twins / Gearbox play
« on: 02 April, 2017, 18:13:38 »
The lower engine is back from SRM and turning beautifully. I started changing the worn Gearbox sprocket and when off including the spring ring, rotated the mainshaft. I am convinced like the engine, it has never been touched. There is a little rotational play but pulling the shaft, probably nearly 1.5 to 2mm of lateral play. Is this excessive, as I suspect an indication of worn bearings? It is not absolutely quiet in rotation either. I am happy stripping the box and replacing gears in situ where necessary, but drifting bearings in and out, then I think it could be going away. Please reassure me the movement is not a cause for concern. Like the engine I want to do EVERYTHING now, as I do not want to strip it completely again.

Does anyone have any simple tricks to get the oil seal out.

As always, any help is gratefully received.

Lionel (not the Lionel Smith in this month's Star!)

14
Twins / A10 SRM Five gear custer
« on: 06 March, 2017, 11:57:43 »
I am in the process of rebuilding the engine on my A10. It needed a double rebore and the journals ground to twice a normal grind. As the engine had been left too long before a rebuild I am assuming the gearbox will need attention. The kickstart sometimes sticks, according to haynes that is the ratchet or quadrant. I have a new final drive sprocket and SRM anti drip sleeve nut. Both Haynes and the service sheet say I must remove the gearbox to change the sprocket, is this true? Also Has anyone had the SRM five gear cluster fitted, are the ratios any better?

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