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Messages - Charles R

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Twins / Re: A65 stainless steel nuts & bolts
« on: 21 June, 2018, 22:07:26 »
Hi Bess

I don't get the impression that the spindle groove has been re-machined, but who knows!

Good point about the mudguard.  I'll just have to find a workaround when I come to that part of the rebuild.

Cheers, Charles

Twins / Re: A65 stainless steel nuts & bolts
« on: 21 June, 2018, 13:32:51 »
Hi Bess

Serious reading from NASA!  Reviewing what they've said on the subject, I've decided that the SS bolt with a plain SS washer and loctite on the threads looks like the best option for taming the fixing.

On the subject of 89/90, I've clamped my two fork members together so that the bodies are exactly parallel to each other and the wheel spindle ends are coincident (see photo).  I've then placed a steel rule against the wheel spindle "grooves" to check any angle difference.  I can't see anything other than they are also parallel, ie at 90 to the fork member body.  It's difficult to photograph but I've included some close-up shots.  I haven't a wheel spindle at present, otherwise I would clamp it on and see how non-parallel the member bodies would be.  I'll have to do that at some later stage.

Cheers, Charles

Twins / Re: A65 stainless steel nuts & bolts
« on: 21 June, 2018, 11:36:02 »
Thanks Bess

I may not have asked the question re SS fixings correctly!  Draganfly didn't seem to be eager to provide a simple way of getting hold of the SS fixings.

Regarding the spring washers, I suppose it depends how much demand is being made on the fixing.  I can understand why NASA may have had reservations because they have little opportunity to keep an eye on fixings and put them right in operation.  Is an alternative to use a flat washer and use stud-lock on the threads?

I'm not familiar with the fork binding issue and I don't understand why 89 rather than 90 would solve anything.  The problem with my forks, I believe, is that the outer members are of different lengths because they are of different build standards (different models, years?).  In addition the end caps are different, which to the casual observer makes the two assemblies look the same size until you put them close together (as in the photo) and then you can notice that the wheel spindle location is 5mm out of alignment.

I've been given the impression from various people and articles/books that when my bike was produced (1970) BSA were in trouble and were using whatever stock was to hand.

I'm just hoping that the 5mm difference is not an issue for bike handling.

Cheers, Charles

Twins / Re: A65 stainless steel nuts & bolts
« on: 21 June, 2018, 10:18:34 »
Thank you all for your replies.

I live not far from Draganfly and went to see them yesterday.  I bought some parts (not related to my stainless steel query) from them and then asked them for advice on stainless steel.  They didn't seem to have any strong views and they do not hold much of a stock of bolts etc in stainless steel.

Specifically regarding the bolts (or studs) that hold the fork caps onto the fork outer member to clamp the wheel spindle, they supply ordinary steel bolts and not high tensile steel.  Their opinion was that SS bolts would be satisfactory.

As an aside, I've noticed in another post comments about the effectiveness of spring washers being questioned.  I think they may have missed the point that a spring washer is designed to dig into the the materials on either side of it when the head of the bolt rotates anticlockwise to prevent it from becoming undone.  The BSA parts list shows use of the spring washer under the head of a bolt.

I've included a photo of the two fork outer members, with one outer member having the end cap held by studs (as found on the bike), the other showing my intended solution with SS bolts & SS spring washers.

The photo shows how different the two outer members are.  Draganfly couldn't offer an explanation.  I'm assuming that the wheel spindle will bring the fork members into alignment and that 5mm discrepancy in the positions of the oil seal holders, either side of the wheel, will not be noticeable.  I'm also assuming the subtle difference in spring compressions will have no noticeable effect.

Thanks again for your help.

Cheers, Charles

Twins / A65 stainless steel nuts & bolts
« on: 14 June, 2018, 18:01:50 »
I'm trying to replace as many of the bolts, studs etc as possible with stainless steel equivalents on my 1970 A65L.
There are at least a couple of issues with this.

1. Will the stainless steel equivalent be strong enough?
2. What are the sizes/threads?

For most, the latter question is simply answered by checking the old bolt.  However in my case the old bolt is sometimes missing and other times is blatantly not the correct part.  For example the bolts that should be holding the fork caps have been replaced by over-long studs, but at least I know they are 5/16" UNF.  Others are less obvious, for example the fork drain plug, is it 2BA or what?

Does a list exist identifying all these types of fixtures such that I could then buy a stainless steel version?  Do any of the fixtures need to be made in high tensile steel?

Cheers, Charles

Twins / Re: A65 rebuild
« on: 17 January, 2018, 10:30:26 »
Hi Mitchell

I've got to do similar work on my tank (also an A65).  As well as the chrome & paintwork needing to be completely redone, a dent/crease has to be sorted and I'm missing the right hand tank badge (this is proving difficult to source economically).  The left badge isn't exactly in great condition, so a pair would be very handy.

Regarding the paraffin leak test, heating oil (kerosene, AKA paraffin) is available at around 50p per litre, so shouldn't break the bank particularly if you know someone with an oil boiler.

Good luck with your work.

Cheers, Charles

Twins / Re: Where to fit an external oil filter on my A65L (pre OIF)
« on: 16 January, 2018, 18:15:12 »

I agree that there often isn't enough time, particularly as writing/producing articles takes a long time if it's not your normal business, so hats off to all who contribute.

Cheers, Charles

PS thanks for volunteering Bess

Twins / Re: Where to fit an external oil filter on my A65L (pre OIF)
« on: 16 January, 2018, 00:30:06 »

Great idea to have a technical article from Bess on a subject that is likely to be of interest to many.

It's something I think the magazine is often a bit light on - particularly where worthwhile improvements to the original design are described (benefits & pitfalls!).

This would be of great interest to me as this is my first bike restoration.

Look forward to reading it soon!!

Thanks, Charles

Twins / Re: Where to fit an external oil filter on my A65L (pre OIF)
« on: 15 January, 2018, 12:38:25 »
Hi Bess

Thanks for the photos.  Looks like a similar position to bikerbob's.

It seems to be nicely tucked in but very easy to change the filter cannister (& drain the oil).

Cheers, Charles

Twins / Re: Where to fit an external oil filter on my A65L (pre OIF)
« on: 14 January, 2018, 19:13:51 »
Hi Bob, thanks for the reply.

In a way, "things being in the way" is what I'd like so that the presence of the external filter is as hidden as possible.

Cheers, Charles

Twins / Re: Where to fit an external oil filter on my A65L (pre OIF)
« on: 14 January, 2018, 10:09:35 »
Thanks Bob
I had spotted your photo and it looks like an interesting location.
Have you got any side/other views that would help me visualise it better?
Cheers, Charles

Twins / Re: Where to fit an external oil filter on my A65L (pre OIF)
« on: 13 January, 2018, 08:55:10 »
As my A65 is completely in bits (frame stored in shallow shed loft!), It's a bit difficult to visualise the space available, hence my request for actual A65 conversions.

Behind the side panel (tool box area) certainly looks like a possibility.

Thanks, Charles

Twins / Where to fit an external oil filter on my A65L (pre OIF)
« on: 12 January, 2018, 21:20:59 »
I have bought an external oil filter & holder (as fitted to Nortons I believe - see attached photo with dimensional details).
I'm some way off finishing the engine and refurbishing frame, wheels, well everything really, but I'd like to know where the filter and its holder could be best fitted.  I'd like it hidden from view as much as possible, but still with reasonable access for cartridge replacement.  It'll obviously need a mounting bracket to be specially made for my A65L (1970) pre OIF.

Ideas on best routes for oil pipes and any other fixings also needed.

I know this has been done many times, so I'm looking to short circuit the design loop by getting your help.

Any photos would be much appreciated.

Look forward to seeing some good suggestions!

Cheers, Charles

Twins / Re: A65L Crankshaft welded sludge trap access
« on: 07 November, 2017, 17:51:34 »

I am not intending to do any great or numerous journeys on my A65L (when eventually resuscitated) so that's part of the reasoning for not worrying unduly about the sludge trap.  I'll be very surprised if I manage more than 1000 miles a year - there could be peaks but there'll also be troughs in my use.

I also wonder whether the sludge would be fine enough and in small enough quantities to pass through the crankshaft journals without affecting them, as I would expect the filter to deal with them fairly well as they go round the oil loop.

I suppose I'm looking through rose tinted spectacles and hoping to "cure" the crankshaft block without spending a fortune or tearing out what little hair I've got left.

Hopefully my bike will be back on the road before you are able to report on how much gunge your trap has been filled with!

Thanks again for the help.

Cheers, Charles

Twins / Re: A65L Crankshaft welded sludge trap access
« on: 07 November, 2017, 12:47:40 »

Thanks for your suggestion.

I live quite close to Draganfly so took it to them for their view.  They were very reluctant to commit to how long it would take, but their view was a minimum of 2 hours and no certainty of success in being able to reinstate it.  I could then be back to square "minus one" with a hole in the crankshaft and another one in my pocket!  I know they are quite busy, so it could be that they didn't really want to do it (though they certainly didn't say so)!

I think the answer (as recommended by you) may be to seek out another machine-shop and get their view to see what sort of process they could carry out to get into the sludge trap area to see what's in there  After inspection I could then decide what's best to do regarding making it good again or simply blanking it off (see later).

With an external cartridge filter and frequently changed modern oils, I can't see that a sludge trap would be necessary - but I'm no expert on this matter.  It seems to me that BSA put the sludge trap in the crankshaft to make use of the centrifugal effect to remove the heavier deposits in the oil but only because the filtration system was so poor.  Any thoughts on simply not bothering with the sludge trap after opening the hole to check everything is good and clean inside the crankshaft?

Cheers, Charles

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