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Topics - BOBLAN

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1
Singles / B31 ammeter
« on: 04 March, 2024, 14:51:28 »
Hi all

I don't think that my 1946 B31 headlight is the original type, as it just has a chrome headlamp shell, whilst I believe the original set up would have had a painted cowl? Anyway, I don't think my ammeter is working correctly and would like to replace it. As with the rest of the later set up, I doubt that the ammeter is the original type either. It has a body of 1.5" diameter, with a cream face and measuring +-8 amps.

Can anyone suggest whether I can buy another ammeter with a 1.5" diameter and with a suitable amperage range? And if so, where from?
Thanks
Bob

2
Singles / Another Monoblock carb problem...
« on: 08 July, 2023, 23:28:06 »
I have a 1946 B31 and bought a brand new 276 Amal from Burlens a year or two ago. I haven't used the bike much since then, but I am having real trouble with the float chamber continually flooding. As soon as I open the tank tap, fuel spurts out of the two holes in the screw cap of the float chamber and out of the carb itself.

Having stripped the float chamber many times, it seems that the fuel enters from the bottom until the float rises and seals the "valve". The "valveĢ just seems to consist of the cone shaped end of the bottom of the float spindle being pushed (by the pressure of the fuel), against the brass seating. With the problem as described above, it seems to point to the valve not sealing properly, even though it is a new carb.

Is my thinking correct, or is the "valve" missing something? Any ideas how to cure it?

Thanks for any suggestions!

3
Singles / b31 advance-retard
« on: 25 July, 2019, 15:49:01 »
Hi - I would be grateful if anyone can explain the set up on my 1946 B31 advance / retard mechanism. I am fairly new to these manual advance / retard levers and so I expect I must just be missing something obvious.... I am having trouble with the bike kicking back...

Having had the mag dyno rebuilt, I have reassembled the bike and retimed it it, although I now cannot get it to stop spitting back or kicking back when attempting to start it. I am sure that the timing is set up correctly - 7/16" before tdc on the compression stroke. That all looks OK, with the points just about to open in the 10:00 oclock position. The manual says to time the bike with the advance/retard in the slack position.

So I can understand that in normal running set up, the engine is presumably firing just about at TDC - is that correct? But on start up, I believe that you are supposed to pull the advance/retard lever in, which is supposed to retard the firing slightly? But it looks to me that when the lever is pulled in, the points are then opened wide, ascompared to the standard advanced position, when they are only just starting to open.

So that suggests to me that the plug will spark earlier with the lever pulled in, because the points are opening earlier? Isn't that therefore advancing the timing? It would certainly explain why it is kicking back at me!

I know my logic must be wrong but I cannot understand where. Can anyone explain please?
Thanks
Bob
 

4
Singles / B31 dragging clutch
« on: 16 November, 2018, 20:35:27 »
Hello all
I am currently recommissioning an early 1946 B31 which has lain dormant for the last 20 years in the previous owner's shed. All nearly complete now, except that I cannot stop the clutch from dragging. it is so bad that I cannot select any gears with the engine running. The clutch is a 6 spring type with 3 drive plates.

All the plates are straight with no apparent damage. I have been very careful to ensure that the 6 springs are tensioned correctly so that when the plates move in and out, they remain level all the way round. The clutch push rod and cable adjustments are correct. The primary chain also has the correct amount of slack at its tightest point.

With the primary chain case cover removed, I can see that the outer plate moves out about half and inch when the clutch lever is pulled in, and with the lever fully in, the outer plate is almost flush with the rim of the clutch housing. All the clutch plates slide freely within the clutch housing.

So why does the clutch drag? I have got to the point where I think it is worth removing one of the plates, to see if that works. However, that might then allow the clutch to start slipping?

Has anyone got any suggestions?
Many thanks
Bob

 

5
Singles / B31 Speedo in tank model
« on: 26 June, 2018, 11:06:18 »
Can anyone tell me how the chronometric speedo should be fixed into the petrol tank? There is no scope for any fixings as the cavity in the tank is inaccessible once the speedo is inserted.

When I pushed mine out, it had just been wedged in with a load of sticky tape wrapped around the unit to make it a tight fit. Perhaps it needs some form of rubber sleeve or grommet? And can anyone tell me if and where these might be available?

If I cannot find out how the original fixing was done, I know that I can just use the 'sticky tape' solution again, but it would be nice to get it right if possible.

Thanks
Bob
 



6
Singles / Number Plates
« on: 30 June, 2017, 15:29:51 »
I have just had my 1946 B31 re-registered by DVLA with an age related number, and I now have an authorisation certificate for getting some new plates made up. Can anyone tell me if the 'stick on' numbers and letters are still legal, or do I have to have the embossed 'silver on black' aluminium types?

Thanks
Bob

7
Singles / B31 Oil return
« on: 08 February, 2017, 12:46:08 »
Hi all

I am in the process of recommissioning a 1946 B31, which has been off the road for the last 25 years. I understand that the engine was rebuilt prior to it being stored, so I was hoping that all is well with it. I am currently changing all the oils and would appreciate any help with the following query:

I have emptied the old engine oil from the tank, cleaned it out and replaced the filter which was damaged. I have taken the sump bolt out to empty any old oil, and removed the bottom cover plate to clean the gauze filter. I have also checked that pressure ball valve is free of its seat.

On refilling the oil tank and removing the spark plug, I was hoping that I would see oil returning to the tank when kicking the engine over fairly fast. However, I cannot see any movement in the oil, so I am worried that the oil may not be circulating? Or perhaps it will only return when the engine is actually running?

I would appreciate any thoughts.
Thanks
Bob 

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