i keep being told the lord will provide...OH NO HE DOESNT.

solvol costs a rosary and seven hail marys

i might try droods head honcho pendragon this year. he seems to be a man with a clear insight

all hail the green man and a-wassailing we will go

surely its better to learn by doing not looking at the book but then i'm good at learning quick

the first thing i'd do is find out where they originate from

havent taken one out but i got mine in by taking out the wheel so it should come out.

if you can get to it the front bolt that hold the mudguard in place once removed should give enough room by
pushing the guard to the left a little. i havnt tried this yet but i would give it a go

just take it apart with a positive attitude. do what you gotta do then put it back together with that same positive attitude.

any bits you've got left over will then just be called a weight saving exercise.

just do it slowly and refrain from using big hammers. it ain't rocket science. common sense will prevail

wild guess 42-4968

its amazing how accurate a screwdriver and a thumb can measure

front brake. how are they measued. 7" and 8". ive assumed mine is an 8" but quick measure with a screwdriver and my thumb in the approx place put my drum at 9 1/4" diameter. that threw me a bit. i approximated the radius with said screwdriver and thumb combination. i cant believe i was over 1/2" out

yes i know i should be back out there with a tape but its a bit chilly and my tape isnt to hand

does help . gives you an inkling of whats to be done

heres a useful little nic nak to help tune it...if you can find one

the needle 'seated' over time? what is youre set'up? what size? vm38/4? what slider? jetting? i lurve mukinis. all my harleys run on them

VM's are brilliant. they have to be set up right and its a bit of a faff. once they are though you'll never looh back

i would have said the right meedle was imperayive but its all academic now

should have said motocarb recommends a VM38. might be a /4 but i'm not sure about that

why was the upgrage needed.

old sportys have a taper at the top of the fork. i can tell you that, on sportsters anyway, the taper does not come into play in the fork flexing. the forces involved are down nearer the brake. the mudguard is like it came straight off a sherman tank. that keeps it in check until you go and change something.  people would put+2" forks on or a fancy 'fender' made from chinese transparent metal or some pads made from gawd knows what. hence the plethora of braces and tweek bars around.

course it could still be something out of killick, checked the relevant bearings?