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Messages - JulianS

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526
Lightweights / Re: Dandy help
« on: 31 July, 2017, 20:57:22 »
You can apply for a dating certificate and find details of applying to retain the registration on the BSAOC website;

http://www.bsaownersclub.co.uk/machine.html

The BSAOC has copies of the despatch books.


527
Lightweights / Re: Dandy help
« on: 31 July, 2017, 20:15:01 »
The first Dandys left the factory in October 1956, although the plan was for an earlier launch.

Yours is an early one, with Wipac electrics.

There were a lot of problems with the Dandy. Around 1000 of the first made were recalled to supplying dealers, and those which made it back to the dealer had their frames changed. I dont know what the problem was, but there is a book in the factory despatch records which lists those which were changed. It is a possibility that your Dandy had the frame changed and that the dealer failed to stamp it, or it could be just covered with paint.

There were around 14 factory to dealer service sheets issued over the next 3 or 4 years detailing changes and modifications to the machine.   

I have attached one such service sheet to give you the flavour, also attached is the front page of the Dandy brochure issued around the time yours was sold, and a page from 1956 owners manual.

The BSAOC magazine, The Star, June and July 2016, has interesting Dandy articles written by Dr Arthur Dawkins. They are well worth reading.

Also see Dandy post earlier this year.

528
Twins / Re: B31 timing cover
« on: 31 July, 2017, 10:32:35 »
There should be a disc valve in the lump with the hex on the outside of the timing cover if your engine is post 1948.

This ebay item gives a view of the cover with breather assembly fitted;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSA-M20-M33-B31-B33-TIMING-COVER-/162602395489?hash=item25dbdba761:g:SP0AAOSwzqFZAK9l


And the photo is from service sheet 603 dealing with the breather.

529
Twins / Re: Spitfire Tank fitting
« on: 30 July, 2017, 15:36:16 »
The rubber ball expands as the nut is tightened so gripping the tube into which it fits. I think it avoids putting stresses on the weaker structure (compared to steel) of the glass fibre tanks.

Photo is from the 1966 UK catalogue showing thenSpitfire Mk2 fitted with a 5 gallon tank.

530
Twins / Re: Twin leading shoes
« on: 30 July, 2017, 12:42:13 »
Look at the photo to see the way the cam and shoes are assembled. This brake has had the wide flange machined off.

So curved side of cam to the shoe.

My preferred method of adjusting the tie rod is the same as from the factory workshop manual;

With rod disconnected ensure the flat end of the cam rests on the foot of the shoes.

Turn plate over and fit tie rod adjusting length as necessary and after tightening the locknut check the cam is still in position as above.

Once set it is best to leave the rod adjustment as the shoes will bed in. Change the adjustment they will have to bed in again.

Adjust cable so that the shoes are just not rubbing when you spin the wheel.

Yes the brake does feel spongy. At rest you can sometimes pull the lever right up to the handlebar, but when moving the shoes slide and the brake feels much better and is quite powerful. Pull it back to the bars in motion not recommended you will end up over bars and onto road.

531
The Star and Garter / Re: Nuts!
« on: 30 July, 2017, 10:00:05 »
Nuts usually 1/4 x 26 tpi cycle or bsf, 5/16 x 26 tpi cycle, 3/8 x 26 tpi cycle with larger nuts being 20 tpi cycle. Some owners use BSF its cheaper than cycle in stainless.

For bolts and screws easiest to measure what you need and use high tensile bolts in the appropriate places such as fork pinch bolts.

You can often find bolts to a part number.

Sometimes with an assorted pack you find that the bolts are either just too short or just too long which is frustrating..

532
Singles / Re: B31 help
« on: 28 July, 2017, 20:07:56 »
No head gaskets fitted on B31 or B33 just metal to metal.

65 1157 is a casting number, the number for a machined up to 1953 B31 (ZB31 engine number) head is 65 1156.

65 1703 is the part number for a B31 cylinder 1954 (BB31 engine number) season on which had bigger fins than the earlier one.

B31 pistons available up to  plus 60, liners also available - internet search will show that together they would cost aroung 190 plus vat plus fitting.

Might be worth considering finding a better cylinder - remember autojumble at Sammy Millers museum on 6 August and a bigger one at Bath and West show ground Shepton Mallet on 12 August. 

533
Singles / Re: M21 wheels
« on: 26 July, 2017, 10:27:34 »
The other possibility with 7 inch front brake is that it is the similar type used on some unit singles. If the whole wheel is from a unit single then, as the offset is different  due to different fork centre measurements, the rim will be off centre for your bike.

Photo is from C15 parts book and shows the setup used on some competition models, similar used on some B44 and C25. No nut to hold brake plate and spindle which runs in near side bearing with no sleeve.

534
Singles / Re: M21 wheels
« on: 25 July, 2017, 20:07:22 »
I thought the post 1956 M21 was fitted with the 8 inch single sided front brake which is a different setup to the 7 inch one.

I wonder if you have a mix of parts in your front hub?

Can you post photos they are worth so much more than words in these situations.

535
Pre War / Re: B21 tappet Clearances
« on: 25 July, 2017, 11:57:19 »
The photos are from the BSA book by D W Munro, 1954 edition.

Should give you answers.

536
Singles / Re: 1969 BSA Starfire Electrics
« on: 25 July, 2017, 09:14:34 »
You will not be putting the alternator output through the ignition switch just the ignition, headlight etc load.

The thinwall 1 mm cable commonly used to rewire is rated at 16.5 amps and the 2 mm at 25 amps.

Use fuse/fuses.

If you are concerned about the current you could wire the lights through a relay.

537
Singles / Re: BSA C15 Frame ID
« on: 25 July, 2017, 09:10:23 »
A new from factory replacement frame should have been stamped with the original number ofthe frame it replaced.

The problem with this particular frame is that the number used sounds like it is not from a BSA series which will make it hard to date for registration purposes.

538
Singles / Re: BSA C15 - rebuild and registration
« on: 25 July, 2017, 08:59:41 »
Invest in some good books - try the Rupert ratio Unit singles manuals. get the factory service sheets and parts book.

Join the BSAOC.

The finish will not effect the registration process though a non standard one will likely effect its resale value if you part with it.

To get it registered also see the DVLA web site, they have the final say;


https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration


Note what both web sites say - for age related plate all major parts need to be over 25 years old, of BSA manufacture and the bike needs to be representative of the marque.

DVLA does tweak the rules occasionally, usually making them more strict or onerous.

 

539
Singles / Re: BSA C15 Frame ID
« on: 24 July, 2017, 12:50:55 »
I would have expected a post 1963 C15T to have a welded frame not a bolt together one, with a number which started C15C.

Altering frame numbers on bikes is the same as altering the vin number on a car - commonly to hide or disguise its identity and/or to forge a new identity.

Photo below is from the 1965 US catalogue. You can see what the frame looks like.

540
Singles / Re: B31 Cush Drive Nut
« on: 23 July, 2017, 17:01:43 »
These nuts can be done up very tight  and have often been done up and undone over the years with drifts and chisels.

The nut is a right hand thread 3/4 inch x 20 tpi cycle.

There is provision for a lock washer between nut and cush drive sleeve. They get left out sometimes. It folds into the back of the nut where the arrow points on photo.

A soft drift and hammer is the tool of necessity if the nut is too damaged to get the tool on it but locking the shaft against rotation can be a problem. If loctite has been used you may need heat to break it. Locking on the clutch sometimes just causes the cush drive to operate - you might stop this using a suitable strip of metal between the spring coils or you might have to lock it through the small end eye.

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