That basket looks to have a complete friction ring, not steel.
An interesting pattern part.
The article I linked to shows how to set the springs.
Check the springs are of the correct length for your number of plates, decent springs with good plates ideally adjusted with a dial gauge to get even lift is invaluable.

Quote from: DAVE BRADY on 15 May, 2025, 09:32:43Hi,

Number 23 it the washer and rather than 'domed' it has raised edge.  It is a lock washer hence the tabs.  The domed should have a flat on it so that once torqued up, the edge of the washer is turned up to add the the security of the nut.

Dave.

Yes, I am referring to the nut (part 24 in the above diagram) that has a machined dome with a lip, so not a separate washer per se.  The lip pushes the locking washer against the pressed steel basket and the space inside the lip allows space for the bearing and hub centre internally, hopefully avoiding the issue that you inherited.

You would be very hard pushed to overtighten that nut, chief thing is that there are no previous owners bodges as to why anyone would put the soft tab-washer behind the centre basket?

cdsdoorset2 was referring to the large dished washer that goes on before the chainwheel and centre bearing (this has contact with those corks on the backside of the chain wheel).

Just checking the centre but  is the one with built in washer flange  and a cutout for you to bend the tab washer over into?
Tighten with a moderately long lever should be fine, but your threads should be really clean and at final assembly (ie when you have confirmed that it all spins properly) I would use a couple of drops of Loctite Blue 243 thread locker (everyone with an old bike needs a tube of that to help avoid things dropping off!)

A point to make is that the two centre bearing cages can be assembled incorrectly on the inner race and it is also possible to have the inner race binding too (see text and pics re4ferred to below).

There is a useful thread here for a read and consideration:
https://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/674773/bsa-6-spring-clutch
The author/poster can rather overdo the measurement/special tools bit but the pictures and information are very useful indeed.

I had to use an NEB clutch on my ABSAF 600 (too much power and torque for a stock clutch) but the same stock clutch with Surflex plates properly adjusted on my 57 Competition works beautifully.

Quote from: Calum on 05 May, 2025, 21:52:55I had a similar issue on my B31 - the upper drain banjo bolt was a small hole feed bolt and so the head would flood with oil and it would often smoke badly at lights etc after a decent run. Both feed banjos were correct, as was the lower drain banjo so my 'odd' bolt must have come from another engine altogether. I drilled it out to match the other drain banjo and all has been good since.

I suspect in your case you have accidentally swapped the drain banjo for one of the feed ones, which both increases the delivery and reduces the ability to drain at the same time.

Sounds feasible (and with re-reading it is probably what @Bigsingle was trying to say about checking the size of the banjo holes on the crankcase behind the chaincase)?

Quote from: Dan_B33 on 06 May, 2025, 09:15:04Indeed Ian,
This is fair! All you kept me motivated.
Without this forum and my brother Artur i would give up long time ago.

Many thanks and big aplause.

I still need some adjustments. Staring cold is easy. Warm is not the case.
Compression Ok
Spark OK
Valves clearance OK
Timing - need to recheck

This is however small issue .

For now slow rides 35mph to wear it in.

Dan

Don't go too slowly as you will never run it in properly
Build your speed up and over 50-55 is fine but let it rev gently up to speed, certainly not slog in too high a gear and after a longish run at speed back off onto the over-run for a few seconds to draw the oil up and around.

Can only comment on the s/a version but the ball is set into the adjuster screw on the lower pivot arm

The B31 feed comes off the main oil return (a banjo on the tank). The pipe splits to banjos on the end of each rocker shafts (both 65-1161
The pipe from the back of the head that drains excess oil from the inlet rocker chamber (not a feed). The rest of the oil drains via the pushrod tunnel.
B31/3 usually have same banjo screw (65-317).
Gold stars have the larger feed screw on exhaust (65-318- presumably for cooling) and smaller on inlet (65-317).
So if you have odd one's the larger diameter feed should go on exhaust.

Quote from: Dan_B33 on 02 May, 2025, 09:46:06Hello,
Question.
Anyone has spare mounting bracket for a deeper switch (Lucas black bakelite) ?
The one type which goes mounted on clutch lever.

I have original switch in working order but mountings are to the handel bar.
Managed to buy clutch lever console from Netherlands. That would look nice especially left side brake console with horn is fitted and works nice.

Cheers

Dan

A photo of what you have and what you want would be helpful. I have some spare horn, clutch and switch brackets around here. My road bike has chrome push screwed directly to clutch lever mounting. Off roader has same chrome switch/push on its own man bracket (and is actually more convenient than the one on the clutch (as a dip anyway)

Quote from: Roy on 01 May, 2025, 08:19:22The one with the larger hole would go into the exhaust side ,👍 Roy

Exactly!

Quote from: Greenfield on 26 April, 2025, 12:13:38The first question is, do you have a lifting handle? If not, you'll have difficulty.

Yup.
You need a stand that is straight and in good condition with a lifting handle mounted in the correct place.
You have to lift with the right hand as you rock it back in one smooth movement.
I do wonder if some bikes have stands for 21 inch and 19 inch tyres and people fit either smaller wheels (eg 18 inch or lower profile tyres) which makes it more of a lift.
There is always a side stand option😎

I fit those washers to the alloy A/B series chaincase drain and level screws as per the manual - not convinced they make much of a difference tho'.

Quote from: Dan_B33 on 25 April, 2025, 11:13:13Hello,
Some news from here:

- piston/cylinder/rings set ready clearance to the spec

- electric installation almost done

 Shall be on the road next week

Dan

That cover is the end of the gearbox only - no communication with engine on a plunger B31.
The oil will be gearbox oil so you will need to have the bike on level ground, use a small funnel aimed through the knurled circular that you have removed from the end cover.

Remove the level plug (note - NOT the drain plug - see handbook) and top up with whatever gearbox oil you are using (some people swear by a straight engine oil SAE 40 in Summer - I guess, personally I use EP90

Once oil comes out of the level plug you can stop and then put level plug and filler cap back.
I would not be tempted to over-fill as it will try to exit via the kickstart and gear lever shafts, or, if unlucky the oil seal behind the gearbox sprocket!!

The mounting on my 57 Competition is similar (GS yokes so no steering lock) but very similar.  I have a 'D' shaped speedo but it fits to same bracket as yours and the cable exit is in the same place (the bracket has a notch).

I've use the rubber mounts as on my DBD type mongrel (twin clocks).  The fitting bolts are longer and you have rubber bushes above and below the bracket that lift the speedo (and protect it from the shakes) and may give you enough clearance for your switch.  Both my light switches have a smaller (no 'air' between the rotating rib and the switchplate and shorter rotor too) - is your switch and original?

I've got two new spare pushrods but they 285 and 291mm

So one the same and one a little longer than you have now.

You can have one for the cost of postage in the UK.