Sorry, didn't mention the year because although the bike frame number defines it as 1962 it has been upgraded/modified over the years as many bikes have.  For example this one has an 8' TLS front brake, external fork springs under the gaiters, a headlamp rather than nacelle and a twin carb head.  The forks may be original 1962 with a modified brake, but I don't know.  From what you've said though, and taking a good look at the seal holder it looks as if they are the earlier forks and I'll need the special tool.  Thanks for the help as always. Cheers. Rob

Hi Everyone. I've removed the fork seal holders from the forks on my A65 but can't get the old seals to budge.  I've used heat and penetrating fluid to release the grip between the seal O/D and holder but no luck.  Looking at it from the end with the slots for removing the holder there's not enough of the seal shoulder to get a purchase on to drift it out.  Question is, are the slots for the holder removal tool 'blind' or are they through slots?  If the latter it means I can get the drift on to the seal and tap it out.  Don't want to hammer away at this until I'm sure.  If this isn't the way to do it, any advice on how to get the buggers out?  Many thanks again!  Rob

Hi. As a newbie to British bikes in general and my A65 restoration in particular, the 'which oil' discussion has been really useful.  So much so I ordered the spin on filter kit from Chaz straight away!  Rob

New Years Eve and eventually the remnants of the silent bloc bushes were dealt with.  In the end it came down to creating a thinned area along the the length of the sleeve using a Dremel with cutting disc and grinding wheel.  I then manage to split it along the thinned line.  Even doing this I spent several hours with a hammer and small chisel 'peeling' the sleeve away from the inner diameter of the swing arm.  Success at last.  Just left time for a shower and change before heading off to see in 2023. Happy New Year all.  Rob

The new tank for my A65L arrived from India yesterday.  After ordering the tank I'd subsequently read all sorts of horror stories concerning their quality.  Well mine looks to be very good indeed.  First of all there's some decent weight to it suggesting a reasonable gauge of steel has been used.  The seams are all nicely finished and the Chrome work looks good too. The paint finish is very nice and equally well applied to the underside of the tank as well.  At £250 I think it's a good buy. Do watch out for the import charges though. HMRC (bless 'em) stung me for a further £74.  Still good value I think and at least I know the inside is rust free and clean.  I'll apply some ethanol resistant tank sealer.  Just need to source some BSA badges and knee grips.  The teardrop badges seem expensive at £45+ for a pair. Anyone know of anywhere selling at a better price?  Cheers. Rob

I know you've been dying to hear the latest instalment of the A65 swing arm pin saga .  Having got the swing arm fee of the frame I still needed to remove what remained of the pin.  Getting thoroughly fed up with wielding a FBH my brother-in-law reminded me he had a 6 ton hydraulic press.  Mounting up the swing arm with a suitable drift the pin slid out nicely along with the rubber component of the bearing.  What was amazing was the HUGE pile of very fine reddish brown powdered rust that came out with it.  I doubt it had been lubricated since it left the factory in 1962.  This leaves me with the remnants of the outer bushes which are still firmly attached to the swing arm.  I can't get behind them to drift them out so I cut a groove into the sleeves using a Dremel mounted cutting disc. The groove was used to locate a blind bearing puller but this has proved to be ineffective so far despite the addition of lots of heat to the outer swing arm and cooling the inner bearing.  There's nothing for it now but to grind and cut the sleeves away being careful not to damage the swing arm ID.  What a nightmare.  But to be fair I had a similar problem with the bushes on a Yamaha I restored a couple of years ago.  It's also the only part of the bike which has given any trouble when taking it apart.  Going forward I'll reassemble the new bearings with anti corrosion grease (AC50) and all pack the space between them with grease.  A greasing point will also be fitted to allow regreasing.  Onwards and upwards!!
Rob

Thanks everyone for the helpful input.  In the end I've finally freed the swing arm from the frame. I'd been heating and cooling everything along with liberal amounts of releasing fluid but nothing budged.  Step 2 - heating things up and using a whole can of butane/propane mix the bushes smoked wonderfully but things still didn't budge.  Step 3 - Made up a threaded puller, applied loads of heat , nothing, stuck fast.  Step 4 - Loads more heat, made up a drift to fit the pin and belted the end of it for all I was worth.  It moved!  After 1 hour of this I'd got the pin to move 4".  Step 5- Impatience finally set in.  Cut the exposed 4" of the pin off with a cutting disc in the angle grinder, tapped the remains of the pin stub back a little and the damn thing finally came free.  I still need to cut the pin and bush remnants from the swing arm but at least the part is more manageable on the bench than the full frame!  But that's for another day.  Time for a rummage in the fridge for a beer (or 2)!  Oh the joys of fettling old motorbikes!!!

Thanks everyone for the quick replies.  I think I'm going to have to cut through the spindle as suggested and take it from there.  FYI, it's a '62 frame and judging by the smell and smoke when applying heat I guess it's fitted with silent bloc bearings.  Or at least it was!!!Off to buy a FBH.

My A65 engine and frame are now fully stripped down ready for the next stage of the resto project.  However I cannot get the swing arm pivot pin out.  Have removed the thin end nut, the spindle pivots with the swing arm, the plate at the other end is free of the frame by about 10 thou but axially the pin refuses to budge.  Have soaked everything in releasing fluid for days, applied enough heat to get the rubber bushes smoking (setting off the smoke alarm!), made up a threaded puller and, when that failed vigorously applied the largest ' precision percussive adjusting tool' I have.  It just won't move.  Before anyone suggests it, I have also tried jumping up and down and swearing but that hasn't worked either.  Of course the various manuals say to remove the nut and tap out the pin.  Hah!! Am I missing something obvious here?   I'd appreciate any advice!!!!
Cheers
Rob (Swindon)