The taps I bought needed thread adaptors to fit the tank.  From memory it was 3/8 - 1/4 BSP parallel threads.  BSP being available in tapered form as well of course.  Don't bother with the usual bike spares suppliers.  Go to your local plumbing supplier and they sell nice brass ones and mine cost 79p each!

Thanks guys.  That all makes sense.  Just worried I'd wired it incorrectly somewhere.  Just the carbs to sort and then I'll be ready to have a go at firing it up (fire extinguisher at the ready!).  Wish me luck. Rob

Hi Everyone.  The A65 project inches ever nearer first fire up but there's a blocked carb problem which I'm sorting. However, when turning the engine on the kickstart (without firing due to the carb problem) I notice that the ammeter shows a negative current reading of about 4 Amps. I would have thought that as the alternator spins I should get a positive readout.  When this happens only the ignition circuit is live, lights, brake light and indicators all being off.  I believe the ammeter is wired correctly as it shows current drain with the lights and or indicators on (engine not running).  I've fitted a 'modern' rectifier/regulator which is wired as per the circuit diagram in the instructions.  BTW the bike is wired -ve earth.  So why does the ammeter show a current draw when kickstarting?  Would appreciate any advice/comments on this.  Rob

Thanks for suggesting the spark detector.  I ordered one which arrived today and it shows that there is indeed a spark. That's a relief!  Advice, as always very much appreciated.  I can now get on and try and fix the speedo drive leak from beneath the timing chest.  There's always something to keep us busy with these old bikes!  Rob

I use well seal too as it's easy to remove should you you need to disturb and clean up the joint at some point in the future. Some other products act like cement after a few years and it can be a bugger to get off.

I've not used spark detectors before but have ordered a pair.  If that doesn't show anything then I'll buy a pair of 6V coils.  Any specific type/recommendation for use with the Wassel kit or will any generic type be OK?  Thanks everyone. Rob

Ryhatt & Phaedrus.  Thanks for the advice.  The rotor mounting looks ok as it rotates concentrically. i.e. it doesn't wobble and , as far as I can tell rotates equidistant between the static pick ups.  The AC reading is about 0.6V which suggests that the trigger coils are OK and the unit is generating a trigger signal correctly.  This eliminates the trigger as the possible cause of the problem which is a positive result. 

As for the quality of the product, I'm inclined to think that there shouldn't be a generic problem as I've already carried out the 'substitution' checks using new parts. Also Nigel of Classic Motorcycle Spares has fitted the Wassel system to many of his customers bikes without any issues.

It MUST be an earthing fault somewhere that I'm just not tracking down at the moment.  I'll continue to persevere and let you know once I've managed to electrocute myself via a lively spark plug!

As ever guys, thanks for taking the time to help out, much appreciated.  Regards. Rob.

The progress on the A65 restoration continues but I've now hit ,yet another, brick wall.  I cannot get the ignition system to spark.  Stripping the motor originally I found a Boyer Bransden ignition fitted along with a single, twin outlet coil.  Checking with the multimeter the coil was toast and the rest of the system looked old along with dodgy connectors.  The original points and adv/ret unit were in the box of bits that came with the bike but had been stored in a damp shed and were corroded to hell.  Thought best to fit a new electronic system as I've had much success with these in the past. It's a Wassel product which was wired up as per the diagram in the photo.  I have checked the continuity of every connector, ensured there's 12+ volts at each connector and that all earths all ground correctly back to battery as you can see by my annotations.  The battery is new and fully charged.  Cranking the motor via the kickstart and the plugs (NGK B7ES) stubbonly refuse to spark.  I've tried alternative plugs and caps to eliminate these as culprits. They are earthed against the cylinder head and a continuity check shows a good ground connection to frame and back to battery.  The coil resistance checks are good.  Low tension 3.5 Ohms, HT 11.8 kOhms. The resistance across the sensor coils on the end of the crank closely match the spec given in the manual at 135 Ohms so they look OK.  I've refitted the connectors too which is why there is insulation temporarily missing in the photo. My local BSA parts chap, Nigel Wynne (Classic Motorcycle Spares) has loaned me a new coil and electronic box to do a substitution check but this also results in zero spark. I've even jury rigged dedicated +ve and earth lines between the various components and battery, bypassing the main loom.  Still no results.  At this point I've bailed out and am enthusiastically investigating the contents of a large wine bottle!  I know it's difficult to advise remotely on a problem like this but is there anything totally obvious I'm failing to see?  Any advice, comment or wine recommendations will be gratefully received.  Rob

Thanks as always for the advice.  I'll take the relevant area to bits (sigh) and check i've the correct seals etc in line with the comments.  Here's to making drip trays redundant.  Or is that just wishful thinking?  Rob

I also bought my first British bike some 18 months ago as I wanted a change from the Japanese bikes I'd always ride (along with a few German and italian machines).  As the guys have said, buy with your head not your heart and DO take someone along with you who knows something about the bike you're looking at.  Not sure if you're after a rider or one to restore. From my experience as a 'first timer' I've found an A65 restoration to be both frustrating but very rewarding too.  If you've had experience working on Japanese stuff you shouldn't have any problems.  Just be prepared to buy non-metric spanners and to get to understand the different British threads used on the various fasteners.  DO join the BSAOC, I've found the club members to be so helpful and friendly even when asked umpteen numpty questions they've probably been asked many times before.  They're a patient lot! I should know. Good luck, have fun and post a picture of what you eventually buy.

Ha!  Now I know leakages are not a new topic by any stretch of the imagination, but they are frustrating!!  On my rebuilt A65 motor I have topped up the oil tank, gearbox and primary drive oils.  The engine has not even run yet (that's another topic!), just turned over on the kickstart, and I have a leak of gearbox oil from the point where the speedo cable connects to the output spigot at the lower part of the engine. It's only a small drip but it's there. There wasn't a seal between the cable outer and the spigot when the original was removed and the new one doesn't have one supplied with it.  I have fitted a fibre washer in there and tightened it up but I still have a dribble.  Any thoughts on how to stop it or is it just a case of 'they all do that sir'?? Rob

  I like that idea!

Thanks to Julian i found out that the tax for an over 250cc bike in 1962 was £4-10s-0d.  Doesn't sound much but in todays' money that's about £120. Not a lot different to current rates.

I bought a tank from India for £250 (plus £74 'donation' to HMRC!) and have been positively surprised with how good it is.  Fair weight to it suggesting reasonable gauge of steel and it fits the frame well.  The paint is nice and thick and the chrome work looks good too, but time will tell with that.  Only slight niggle was that the threads for the fuel taps and tank badges were clogged up but a quick run through with the relevant taps soon sorted it out. May be worth a try if you can't find a decent one locally.

Tommy.  I similarly began my BSA 'career' with an A65 about 18 months ago. It was originally a 1962 Star but seems to have various later parts added. As the others have suggested download a copy of the Workshop manual from the club.  Personally I wouldn't bother with the Haynes manual, next to useless in my opinion.  A really useful book though is the excellent "BSA Twin Restoration" by Roy Bacon. ISBN 0-85045-669-X. I found a used copy on the 'net.  Worth every penny and full of invaluable info.