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Messages - Steve.S

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 11
16
Pre War / Re: Putting a Brake on It
« on: 29 May, 2024, 18:46:10 »
As Ron says, you will need a brake cross shaft, but the part number is 24-8076, so may be different to the C10. You also need a cross shaft lever, similar to the C10, but with 2 arms, one for the return spring and one for the clevis pin, part number 24-8072
You will find that there are a pair of lugs on the frame tubes which the Factory kindly bushed, ready for fitting the shaft.
Both ends of the shaft are squared and have grease nipples. A rod runs from the cross shaft lever to the rear brake lever.
Hope this is of some help.

17
Pre War / Re: Pilgrim pump
« on: 29 May, 2024, 01:37:01 »
As per the article, you must remove the "bush" and skew gear to remove the plunger. With the skew gear fitted, it will probably be a little harder to push the plunger back and forth as you will be turning the gear. Better to rotate the drive tit and use a screwdriver gently held against the plunger to push it back in. But really you need to remove the skew gear to see if the plunger is completely free. It's obviously made to close tolerances, but should move back and forth easily. However, I wonder if this is your problem? Maybe the plunger is moving out with the action of the cam, but the spring is not able to push the plunger back, perhaps due to a small piece of scheizer in the bore? Or maybe the housing became slightly distorted?
I'm sure Peter will solve the problem.

18
Pre War / Re: Pilgrim pump
« on: 28 May, 2024, 18:26:57 »
Courtney,
This  seems very odd.
I think the 1st thing you should do is fit a tap to the oil tank. You may need a 3/8 BSP to 1/4 BSP adaptor from Hitchcock's Motorcycles, although one may already be fitted. You also need a 1/4 BSP (or maybe a 1/8 BSP)  brass tap.
If a tap is not fitted, you will probably find that, over a period of time, oil will drain into the crankcase and make starting very difficult. Do not forget to turn the tap on when starting the engine, otherwise it will blow up. I hang cardboard signs on the bike as a reminder.
Are you saying that the pump fills up with oil with the engine running, or overnight with the engine not running?
The plunger inside the pump both rotates and oscillates and it is the amount of oscillation that controls the flow. This is adjusted via the adjuster, so it sounds to me that the plunger is not moving back and forth, but why this should be after simply removing the pump, I've no idea. Most odd.
If you search the internet, there is an article from a UK edition of Old Bike Magazine, entitled "Pilgrim's Progress" reprinted by the Jam Pot website. Look under Images. There are a couple of very important 'Don't Do's', so read it first. Gerald Howard is no longer in business, but you could try Peter Rosenthal at Pete's Bikes 07505 884261.
It might be worth removing the plate with the adjuster on, and see if the plunger is moving back and forth when you rotate the pump by hand.
Beneath the beak, there is a ball and spring. I wonder if this has stuck? The beak is a push fit in the housing.
I can't think of anything else at the moment, but I'm sure Peter will be able to advise you.

19
Singles / Re: M21 gearbox
« on: 26 May, 2024, 14:06:12 »
Glenn,
Yes, the Oil Retaining Washers fit either side of the bearing, so when the sleeve gear is fitted, you could say the washers are on the sleeve gear.


20
Singles / Re: M21 gearbox
« on: 26 May, 2024, 13:59:55 »
Nige,
 So I take it that you have refitted the bearing and that the oil retaining washer is being held centrally. (It will finally be trapped hard against the bearing when you fit the sprocket and tighten the ring nut).
It is often the case that you have to rotate the mainshaft and jiggle the gear change quadrant when fitting the inner cover.
From memory, the bearing should be about flush with the casing, maybe just proud.
One way to see if the bearing looks seated is to grind the OD of the old bearing so it's a drop fit in the casing and make a comparison.
However, if you heated the casing up enough, the bearing should just drop in with a satisfying plop, when it will be obvious it has seated.
You might want to do a trial assembly without the layshaft and selector rod, to confirm that the mainshaft is causing the problem?
You could also remove the mainshaft and make sure it is fully entering the small bearing in the inner cover.
Let us know how you get on.

21
Singles / Re: M21 gearbox
« on: 24 May, 2024, 20:59:13 »
Sorry, the oil seal runs on the boss of the sprocket.

22
Singles / Re: M21 gearbox
« on: 24 May, 2024, 19:21:29 »
You will need to remove the bearing again. Heat the case first.
There are 2 oil retaining washers, one either side of the bearing. The outer one sits centrally in a recess in the casing and is held firmly in place by the bearing. Yours is loose because the bearing has not been seated properly. When fully seated, the bearing will trap the washer. Although it doesn't matter too much with a seal fitted, this outer Oil Retaining Washer should be fitted with the recessed inner to the outside. The inner washer should be fitted the other way round. The oil seal runs on the sleeve gear which you have yet to fit.
It would be worth checking the end floats once assembled, and remember that the mainshaft kickstart nut should not be done up tight, as per the M20 Manual.

23
Change the oil now.
However, it would be helpful to know which models you own. For example, one could be a 1912 Model A and the other a 2024 Gold Star, which may need different oils.

24
Singles / Re: 1947 B33 Crank case assembly help needed
« on: 19 May, 2024, 15:03:02 »
I see no reason why you can't just make up a mild or stainless steel spacer of a thickness to allow the engine sprocket to line up with the clutch sprocket. I don't think you need to use Phosphor Bronze.

25
Singles / Re: Magdyno , driven gears , info required
« on: 19 May, 2024, 14:58:45 »
I think there may be some confusion here. Idie is correct in saying that the gear is lubricated by oil in the timing case, but this is the Magdyno drive gear, with a seal on the boss.
Bigsingle is referring to the 2 gears behind the triangular cover..
Lucas stated in one of their Instruction sheets that the Celeron fibre gear should be lubricated by the application of a small amount of grease, and not run dry.
Unfortunately, fibre gears that arrive in the UK by ship seem to be of poor quality.
Hope this helps.

26
Pre War / Re: B21 gearbox gaskets
« on: 18 May, 2024, 18:14:14 »
Alan,
I don't know much about these modern gearboxes with internal kickstart springs, but I wonder if you could loop  piece of string around the spring hook and pull it tight to pre load it? You just judge the pre load by how it feels.
Regarding endfloat, assuming the gearbox was working OK before the spring broke, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
However, I would make the gasket about the same thickness as the old one. When it's all assembled, grab the mainshaft and push it in and out. If you have a DTI gauge, use that, turning the shaft through 360 degrees. (Endfloat will alter if something is bent). Otherwise just judge it by eye.
I don't think this need concern you at this stage, but it might be worth mentioning that endfloat would normally be accurately checked with the component clean, dry and free of oil.
Finally, if you can't select gears after you've reassembled it, it probably means the indexing of the teeth on the selector shaft is incorrect.
Best of luck, and let us know how you get on.

27
Pre War / Re: B2 pushrod seals
« on: 09 May, 2024, 02:01:47 »
Well, I use BMC Mini Rocker Cover Bolt Seals, Part No 12A 1358.
I cut off the reduced diameter bit, chamfer the top slightly to fit the flare on the push rod tubes and cut a flat on the OD to clear the barrel.
Have a look at them and see what you think. They're about the right thickness i.e quite thick.

28
Pre War / Re: MP42 Headlamp
« on: 05 May, 2024, 18:09:48 »
Hans,
I've sent you a PM.
Steve.

29
Twins / Re: A65 Spitfire mkiv needs choke ?
« on: 05 May, 2024, 12:55:13 »
I have heard these carburettors sometimes need cleaning thoroughly before fitting, so I agree with Dave Brady. Also, sometimes jets are loose.
Are you saying that adjusting the air screws don't make make much difference to tickover speed? If all is well, they should be quite sensitive.
I wonder if you might have a little bit of debris in your Pilot By Pass orifice?
A friend of mine once found a dead fly in his float chamber!
You are correct. The mixture adjustment screw is an air screw.

30
Twins / Re: Piston rings
« on: 05 May, 2024, 12:37:10 »
Cox & Turner Engineering 01935 826816 can make piston rings.

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