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Messages - Steve.S

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 11
1
Singles / Re: Primary cush spring ?
« on: 23 June, 2024, 18:55:08 »
It should be difficult to get the nut on, but I doubt if the spring has shortened that much.
Draganfly have the part no. quoted as 1 1/2" long.
Perhaps the sleeve is too long? Maybe a kind member can give you the dimensions?

2
Singles / Re: BSA B33 Inlet Valve Guide- National Scarcity?
« on: 23 June, 2024, 15:29:00 »
I imagine Cardiboy just wants to get his bike back on he road. But if you want turbulence, you'd be better off with a squish band.

3
Singles / Re: Solder bowdens cables
« on: 22 June, 2024, 15:32:53 »
Ideally you need a Bird Caging Tool, but they are very expensive. Fraying the cable in some way is essential, and you could use Silver Solder.
Vintage BSA's used solderless nipples and I've never had any problem with them. They say a pot of molten solder is the easiest way to do it.
MTB's? "Motorbikes"? Or some Japanese contraption?

4
Singles / Re: Modern battery's on older bikes
« on: 22 June, 2024, 15:19:29 »
Well, it depends on whether you have a self starter. I use my knee. I also use Westco AGM batteries from Paul Goff hidden in a fibreglass battery box. I doubt if passers by will notice, but if they do, I will ignore them. These batteries last a very long time.
However, you must not use AGM sealed batteries unless you have electronic voltage control. If you still have the original voltage control unit or a 3 brush dynamo, you will have to use a modern Taiwanese wet cell battery in a fibreglass case, but as you might imagine, they only last about 6 months because they only cost about 1.50 to make.

5
Twins / Re: countersunk bolts???
« on: 22 June, 2024, 14:39:29 »
Sorry, I misread your post. I don't get out much but I've never seen a countersunk bolt on a BSA, although no doubt Japan used them.
You could turn some up from hexagon bar in a lathe, but if you must use a Torque Wrench, you could use a slotted screw with a 1/2" drive slotted screwdriver bit. I might use a machine screw and tighten it by feel, but maybe it needs high torque?

6
Singles / Re: BSA B33 Inlet Valve Guide- National Scarcity?
« on: 22 June, 2024, 14:08:16 »
It's your choice, but personally I wouldn't pay for getting the ports cleaned up. But I think it would be worth investing in a kit of abrasive mops and grinding stones on extended shafts and use a drill to clean the ports up yourself. As they say, every little helps. But I suppose it depends on how much surplus cash you have.
While you're there, why not polish the inlet port and combustion chamber to a mirror finish? After all, it's only a bit of fun and at least will look nice and reduce carbon build up. 

7
Twins / Re: countersunk bolts???
« on: 22 June, 2024, 13:50:58 »
Try Viceman.

8
Singles / Re: BSA B33 Inlet Valve Guide- National Scarcity?
« on: 21 June, 2024, 02:18:41 »
If you cannot find a new valve guide, I would definitely not fit your new valve into your worn out guide.
Perhaps you could take the head to an Engineering Shop and have the guide sleeved? May be cheaper than having a new guide made.

9
Singles / Re: WM20 timing issue
« on: 21 June, 2024, 02:13:31 »
I would invest in a Stroboscopic Timing Light.
Then you could paint a mark on the cush drive and the  crankcase with Tipp- Ex or some such, run the engine, and advance the ignition and see if the ignition is actually advancing. If it is, you could then use a protractor to mark perhaps 35 or 40 degrees on the cush drive and accurately mark TDC, making sure your Degree mark is BTDC and not ATDC.
I hope you are rechecking the timing after you have fully tightened the drive pinion nut, and turning the engine in the correct direction of rotation?
I wonder if the brass extension on the end of the armature is worn, allowing the points carrier to move? Is your armature coming apart?
Are you using a fag paper to establish the exact opening of the points, and ensuring that you turn the engine forwards when coming up to points opening, to take up the backlash?
It may be that you have very low compression and a weak spark.
Let us know how you get on.

10
Twins / Re: Won't Go
« on: 19 June, 2024, 11:27:38 »
I wonder if you are yet desperate enough to convert back to points ignition? It seems to me that without the engine running, so you can use a strobe, you have no idea what the black box is doing to your timing. Perhaps it is faulty?
Wasted spark eh? Just like a Maglita, a wonderful instrument, but you have to set the timing carefully with a single cylinder engine, otherwise it starts running backwards when you stop at traffic lights, much to the consternation of the bloke behind you.
As I suggested, you really should check the spark gap in air. We know the neon is lighting brightly, and the gap jumps 0.025", but it needs to jump 5/16" at least, to confirm it is jumping under compression. It will probably be fine, but you do need to go through the process and eliminate one thing at a time.
I can see that your cam timing marks are in line, but since you are desperate, it would be worth checking with a degree disc. Again, it will probably be spot on, but you have to be certain.
Now, you may have more than one problem here. It's odd that the plugs remain dry.....but I don't think this is the cause of your current starting problems, since a little petrol down the plug'ole should get it to fire. You may want to do an internet search for "Bushman's Carb Tuning Secrets". I agree with Eddie, maybe the pilot jet bushes are full of jelly if they have been standing for some time. I know they have been through a sonic cleaner, but in the past, I have had to carefully remove the tiny alloy core plugs opposite the mixture screw and clear the blockage physically. I believe new plugs are not available.
Regarding wet sumping, the crankcase could easily fill with oil after standing for 8 weeks if your ball valve is not working...not uncommon? Maybe you should fit a tap in the feed line, with a cutout switch? Others will disagree, but I would not use a spring loaded ball valve as pumps are not very good at sucking, and the valve only has to stick closed once and you will need to carry a broom to clear the road of your engine bits.
Faulty spark plugs or suppressor caps. Try it without caps.
 

11
Twins / Re: Won't Go
« on: 15 June, 2024, 17:56:56 »
Some excellent advice there. I have read that it is very easy to get the pushrods mixed up.
I wonder if you've timed it on the wrong cylinder. Maybe swap the plug leads around?
I know nothing about Electronic Ignition, but be careful if you're relying solely on a neon to check for a spark....(is it dim or bright?)
For example, a while ago, I couldn't start the bike, so I checked for a spark with a neon and it lit up. So I looked elsewhere. Turned out the plug wasn't sparking due to a faulty plug.
The only way to check that a plug will spark under compression is to use a Spark Gap Tester. It should spark an easy 5/16" at kickover speed...probably more with Electronic Ignition.
Yes, we need to know if the plug is getting wet without adding petrol or easi start.
Personally, I'd be a little suspect about parts that arrive in the UK on a ship.
If none of the advice you've been given makes any difference, then I think you will have to check the valve timing against the Factory figures, even though the timing marks look OK. At least it will put your mind at rest.
Hope you get it started before you have to buy a new knee.





12
Singles / Re: How not to B33!
« on: 09 June, 2024, 16:50:31 »
Dan,
Judging from the photo, there seems to be no clearance between the teeth of the inlet cam pinion and the idler pinion, which may create a loud whine when running.
All the teeth look a bit worn, particularly on the half time pinion, and the timing mark is indistinct.
I also notice what looks like a timing mark line on the exhaust pinion at 1 o'clock.
It's difficult to tell from the photo, but I would look closely at the above points.
I'm not sure why there would be no clearance between the teeth...wear in the shaft or bush, wrong parts?
I wonder if someone might be able to post pictures of the pinions, showing what distinct timing marks look like?
I agree with Roy about the 'click' and you can confirm this by putting a piece of cardboard or cloth between the meshing teeth, whereupon the click will disappear.
At the very least, I think you need a new half time pinion.

13
Pre War / Re: B21 timing chest
« on: 02 June, 2024, 17:20:42 »
Paul,
I do hope I'm not confusing the issue here, but according to the Parts Books, the timing gear support plate was not fitted until 1939, and then only to the B21 De Luxe model, not the Standard model. When fitted, the timing gear is similar to the one Ron depicts, i.e with an extension. I imagine that this means that the De Luxe mainshaft is longer than the Standard model?
Clearly, your cam spindles are threaded to accept the support plate bolts, (or perhaps just for extraction) but I wonder if someone has tried to modify your earlier engine to include the support plate? I note the Haycroft picture is of the Standard model without the Support Plate.
The point here is that it is essential that there is some sort of seal between the timing cover and the crankshaft to allow oil to enter the crankshaft from the timing cover under pressure. So it seems to me that with the Support Plate fitted, the whole arrangement is the same as the M20, which Ron can expand on.
By the way, do you have issues 151 to 157 of RealClassic Magazine. They contain articles covering the restoration of a B21, but unfortunately not the engine.
 I hope I'm not leading you up the garden path here.

14
Twins / Re: Primary cover damaged screw heads
« on: 02 June, 2024, 13:19:04 »
I have read that applying a little course grinding paste to the screw head and tapping the screwdriver into it can help, although I've not tried it myself. You could also try both a Philips or Posidrive to see which fits best.
Otherwise you will have to drill the head off. If you find the drill is going off centre, which it probably will, you can re centre it using a small bit in a Dremel.

15
Pre War / Re: B21 timing chest
« on: 02 June, 2024, 13:09:41 »
Like Ron, I don't know much about these machines, but my guess would be that the crankshaft nut is not the correct part, being too thick.
You could either heavily chamfer, or preferably shorten the nut. Your plate then won't wobble, and the nut should clear the bush.
It seems that the male part of the  timing cover fits inside the bush, and this will supply oil to he crankshaft, so the Parts Book may show a felt seal to prevent oil leaking into the timing chest, although it may just rely on a close fit to achieve sealing.
Do let us know how you get on with this and your other problems.
I'm sure Ron would agree that a response is always helpful. 

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