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Messages - Calum

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91
As above, do to it as you wish - it is your machine! Thankfully everyone has different tastes and this is what makes the classic scenes more interesting (be they 2 or 4 wheels). It would be very boring, in my opinion, to attend a meetup and see a line of immaculate machines all exactly as they left the factory.

I'm new to the classic motorcycle world as an owner, but have owned and ran nothing but classic vehicles since I got my license. I much prefer to see used and enjoyed vehicles - they were, afterall, built to be used (in all weathers!). I do like to see originality preserved where possible, as is often said "they're only original once". But sometimes things are too far gone and there is, in my opinion, a fine line between nice patina and something that looks like it has never been taken care of or driven into every stone wall in Yorkshire...

I will never, personally, understand the fascination of collecting parts date marked correct for the year or month of machine build. If the original parts are gone, nothing can replace them, and from an outward glance it is often no different if something is marked 1957 or 1959. I do like things to look 'in period' even d not totally original.

Taste is very personal. As I said I am glad we aren't all the same!

92
Singles / Re: Timing change on B33
« on: 27 December, 2020, 10:00:17 »
I see now that my timing may in fact be too far advanced as I kind of suspected. I am getting a .002" opening at the points at a measurement of 7/16" BTDC of compression stroke - but this is with my advance/retard lever set to full retart not full advance. So when I set the handlebar lever to full advance setting I get the .002" opening at the points at about 7/32" BTDC of compression stroke. I am thinking the timing has somehow slipped from when I first bought the bike a few months back. At time of purchase it started vary easy and ticked over nicely but now back firing when trying to start etc.

Also, it was weird becase when I checked the max opening of my points (should be .012" on my bike) I was surprised to see the lock nut for the points adjustment was not snug and the whole points assembly was kind of rattling around in the breeze so I assumed this was the sole cause of the issue but now that I see that the timing is a little too far advanced I will wait for my mag pinion puller to arrive and do my best to set the timing as recommended in my manual.

Can someone tell me please when I remove the timing cover do you normally replace the gasket? I am guessing I dont have to drain the motor oil out when pulling this timing cover off or is there more oil in this timing case area than I think?.....thanks a bunch ...... wayne

Forgive me, but surely the points opening at 7/32" BTDC is retarded compared to 7/16" BTDC, not advanced? Are you sure you are operating the advance/retard lever the correct way? You need to ascertain whether you have taught or slack wire advance.

If the points weren't at the correct gap this too will alter the timing once set correctly.

93
Singles / Re: Headlight dip/horn switch
« on: 18 December, 2020, 09:50:54 »
Mine is as the drawing above - dip on left handlebar (Lucas 31549) and horn push on the right handlebar (chrome finish, not sure on the model). Memory says the dip switch at least mounts onto the clutch lever, the horn push maybe mounts on the brake lever but I can't remember. Mine is a '53 B31

94
Singles / Re: Timing side screws
« on: 14 December, 2020, 09:50:53 »
I notice the allen screw drivers on Bess's link (thanks, Bess) are metric sizes. Does anybody know what the threads on the screws are? I would have thought imperial, ie BSF or BSCy?  (1965 B40F timing side outer cover) Phil.
Going into aluminium I suspect they will be Whitworth

95
Singles / Re: By-pass valve
« on: 09 December, 2020, 09:45:20 »
I wonder if it is adjustable. My guess would be them being worried that someone messing with it might accidentally lower the relief pressure and potentially starve portions of the engine of oil. Pressure relief valves on any car engine I have worked on are usually non adjustable and rely on the set length and rate of a new spring. Obviously not great as springs tire over time but pretty fool proof.

96
Singles / Re: B31 EXHAUST VALVE
« on: 06 December, 2020, 09:54:37 »
If it's something you won't use often don't spend a fortune. RDG Tools are just down the road from my house and do a great range of tools aimed more at the home engineer/model making etc market. They have a great range of stuff at sensible prices, and the quality isn't bad at all. They seem to have a selection of adjustable reamers. One with HSS blades is only around 12 inc VAT.

https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/REAMERS.html

97
The Star and Garter / Re: Two things
« on: 29 November, 2020, 12:49:19 »
A dull (ie darkish) red is, I believe, the right colour.

To digress slightly, when I was taught to harden and temper steel, many years ago, what was called "cherry red" was not really what I would call  the colour of the average cherry. It was brighter than that. Closer to an orange than a cherry, I thought!  But then my colour vision is pretty terrible.
I agree, when annealing copper especially I was told 'cherry red' then shown something which resembles bright orange! ;D

Anywhere between dull red and just before melting (!) will be fine for annealing copper, no need for soap, and quench in water. I only use the soap trick for annealing aluminium.

98
Which BSA do you ride? / Re: B31 Plunger
« on: 25 November, 2020, 19:34:13 »
Don't blame you Bob the competition motors are great looking machines! Mine's just a pretender with the pipe. I would like to do some travelling on it so a standard exhaust would allow me to affix panniers on both sides and carry a little more luggage... it's only a few bolts to swap it over though so easily done if I do fancy a trip. I've seen quite a few of your videos on YouTube, lovely bike you've got yourself! I very much like the green models with painted rims.

99
Which BSA do you ride? / B31 Plunger
« on: 23 November, 2020, 20:49:51 »
Here it is, my first bike! Took me far too long and due to covid I didn't get round to doing my license until far too late in the year. Any nice days at this time of year I seem to be at work(!)
Hopefully I'll be able to start using it a bit more soon.

I've already painted the headlight surround and mudguards, and touched up some other areas (the former bits were red and I didn't really like the look!). Plenty of bits I want to do, but runs nicely and has had lots of bits done already.

It's a 1953 example (1954 model year I think) but is wearing an earlier tank as far as I can tell. Previous owner liked the high pipes hence why it is fitted with one. I must say I like them too and it does sound well but the traditionalist in me keeps thinking I'll reinstate a standard pipe and toolbox (both of which came with the bike).

100
Singles / Re: C15 oil banjo thingys
« on: 22 November, 2020, 19:13:29 »
Copper washers shouldn't need anything else in order to seal. As above, I anneal all copper washers before fitting or refitting, and also pay attention to the mating surfaces and look for any damage or marks which may allow oil to pass. An annealed washer should deform to fill any damaged spots or scratches but a little attention to detail pays dividends when trying to eliminate leaks etc. Just heat them up to a nice red colour and quench in water. A gas ring on the hob should easily do washers of that size.

If they are new copper washers it is also worth trying them on a magnet first... I have had new 'copper' washers come with an engine gasket set for a car that were VERY hard even after annealing... then I found they stuck to a magnet(!!) :o

101
Twins / Re: idler pinion oil groove question
« on: 10 November, 2020, 18:34:10 »
The figure 8 style oil groove won't stop the oil exiting the bush as there's no seal, although it will likely retain it for a slightly longer length of time. The spiral groove is far far simpler to machine of course, hence why you probably see it so often. In a sealed environment, especially one that is fed with a pump, the oil leaving quicker probably won't be a problem. In a total loss bearing fed from an oil pot of a given size, you could well run into trouble as the oil pot empties in a short space of time and runs dry.

Scrolls to keep oil in a box are usually on the shaft rather than the bush in my experience, but I suppose the relative movement is the same regardless of which moves and which is stationary.
Of course you could also look at this spiral and work out which way the oil is likely to migrate.

102
Pre War / Re: Sloper main bearing
« on: 08 November, 2020, 22:44:21 »
Not relating to beezas at all but a very similar bearing sits on the rear of the layshaft in Series Land Rover gearboxes. The bearing is a cylindrical roller with a 'lipped' outer race. When I last bought a new SKF bearing from my local suppliers using the same bearing code (original was an RHP LRJ7/8 from memory - how sad is that!) I got plain outer race with no lips, they were old stock boxes too (I ordered two). I thought that surely there would be a different bearing code or suffix but perhaps not?

103
The Star and Garter / Re: Grease Guns
« on: 04 November, 2020, 08:45:34 »
My view would be to replace with new nipples. The original style, I assume, were the type where the gun doesn't click on? For this type you really need the right type of gun not just the right fitting. The gun would need to be the type where you push the whole grease gun against the nipple which helps create a seal. The modern types are much more forgiving for 'misalignment' with the gun so make greasing some points much easier and generally much cleaner and less messy in general. Lots of old nipples also leak back out as the spring and ball get damaged or worn.

Each to their own though - for a truly concours or prize winning resto modern zinc plated nipples wouldn't cut the mustard. For a usable rider I would replace them all given their very small cost.

104
Twins / Re: Cylinder mods
« on: 03 November, 2020, 19:55:01 »
Hi,

Am I right in assuming that it is train/loco?

Dave.
Yes indeed.

105
Twins / Re: Lacquer or not
« on: 03 November, 2020, 15:37:27 »
Yes I'm happy enough with it, it's certainly not bad enough for me to want to do it again! It's not a show bike by any means.
I got mine from the VMCC (currently awaiting my BSAOC application to be processed)

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