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Messages - Calum

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Singles / Re: B31 'snatching' in gear
« on: 02 June, 2021, 22:51:13 »
Did around 40 miles on the bike this evening. Very happy with the gearbox, feels great. I think I've got the selector lever one spline too high compared to before but easily sorted.
I did notice the clutch slipping, quite badly at times so I really need to tighten that up. Is there any rule of thumb for how much to do it? What I should have done was measure how much thread was showing beyond the locknuts on the 6 springs before I took it apart as that would get me in the right ball park as it was fine before... hindsight is a wonderful thing.
I suppose I can kick it over against compression and feel for the bite point moving as I tighten the springs up.

Singles / Re: C15 Sleeve Gear bush
« on: 23 May, 2021, 09:03:24 »
I know nothing of the C15 gearbox internals, but that groove doesn't look like it is supposed to be there at all to me!

Singles / Re: B31 'snatching' in gear
« on: 22 May, 2021, 21:12:20 »
So I found the time this afternoon to get the new bushes in the gears and pinion sleeve, ream them out and sort out the end float on the shafts. Very happy with the selection now, although in neutral the 2nd gear dogs were closer together than I would like. This was assembled just with the gear control shafts and detent in place - no ratchet or change pedal mechanism fitted yet. I took it apart again and measured the height of the dog teeth from the fork grooves - a selective fit with the 'shortest' dog teeth adjacent to 2nd gear seemed to gain me around 20 odd thou extra clearance which made things a lot more comfortable, yet still allowed full engagement in all gears.
Tomorrow I'll do a final assembly and hopefully get it refitted into the bike. The primary chaincase is being painted whilst it is off also so it'll be a week or so before that's ready to go back on (especially as I am away this coming week).

Hopefully it'll stop raining by the time it's back together! ;D

Singles / Re: B31 'snatching' in gear
« on: 18 May, 2021, 21:21:33 »
Thanks for the heads up. 15 thou is certainly a lot less than what I have now! The 3rd/4th fork really had been rubbing before, potentially due to the mainshaft being too far over to one side. There are also witness marks where the final drive chain has fouled on the back of the layshaft bush where kt pokes through the casting from being too far to the right (even if it was only by 35 thou or so)

My spare gearbox bits arrived today and have provided good forks and selector dogs to build back into my box amongst other bits. I'll get an order in for new bushes and locktabs etc, but given the price I will make new layshaft bushes myself (current clearance in those is around 6 thou which isn't horrendous but whilst I am in there I might as well do them).

I also noticed I have two 3rd gear constant gears fitted rather than a 2nd and a 3rd (ie the 2nd speed constant gear on the layshaft has oil holes drilled through when it doesn't need to have as the bush is fed via the cross drilled layshaft). Can't see it being a problem to be honest but I've got a plain 2nd gear I will fit instead.

Singles / Re: B31 'snatching' in gear
« on: 17 May, 2021, 21:45:20 »
I stripped the gearbox this evening. Generally good condition, with the usual wear on the pinion bushes (I think I will be rebushing them, and the pinion sleeve too). All three shafts mic up correctly and there's no obvious damage to them.
The 3rd/4th selector dog is worn/galled in the groove where the fork runs, and the fork is worn too (around 15-20 thou of wear on the fork at the worst point) The peg in the track of the selector fork is good.
The end float of the gear control shaft I measured at 60 thou with a DTI once I had removed the outer cover.
The end float on the layshaft was excessive too, but I have not measured it (the mention of drilling a hole in the outer bush to measure end float is a good idea, I may well do that)

Someone has definitely been in there before me though. The oil flinger washer which should go between the 1st speed mainshaft fixed pinion and the spacer was found on the outside of the mainshaft bearing, between it and the kickstart ratchet mechanism. It has heavily dished and rubbed against the circlip/snap ring which holds the bearing in the inner cover. As a result the mainshaft has been sitting too far towards the right (by the thickness of said flinger washer) and as such the 3rd speed pinion on the mainshaft was even further from the selector dog. Coupled with the wear on the fork and the excess endfloat on the control shaft it meant that the selector dogs could slide out of mesh as found on my initial peek through the inspection window!

I'm currently waiting on some spares to be delivered, and fingers crossed the selector forks and dogs in the spare box will be a little better than mine. Even if they are not, I think correctly shimming the control shaft, and correctly assembling the mainshaft will solve the problems I have been having.

Singles / Re: B31 'snatching' in gear
« on: 15 May, 2021, 12:53:32 »
I've been super busy with work so only just getting round to pulling the box out. I had the cover off and had a peek inside. Looks nice in there in general, but the problem seems obvious. There is a large amount of end float on the gear selector shaft which is causing the 3rd gear dogs (much more than any other for some reason) to move out of mesh. The forks in the grooves look okay, and the pegs in the forks don't seem too bad either to be honest. I'm sure I'll find out more when I strip it fully.

Singles / Re: QD rear hub bearings
« on: 09 May, 2021, 22:14:48 »
Hi Dave

Thanks for the reply, I did think the tube would move sideways but it didn't seem to want to when I tried... at least you've confirmed that it should so I'll give it another go and knock the bearings out. Yes the bearings will be getting replaced, fear not!


Singles / QD rear hub bearings
« on: 09 May, 2021, 18:57:54 »
Hi all

Whilst I've been taking the gearbox out of the B31 I also stripped the rear plunger units (they've currently got no shrouds fitted and I wanted to check them for condition anyway). Good news is the bushes and columns are good woth only a very small amount of play detectable on the left hand one when dry.

Anyway whilst I had the rear wheel out I noticed the bearings feel quite stiff, and slightly 'notchy' but there is no play there at all. The bearings are sealed units, and look fairly recent (probably cheap ones). In my experience this feeling is usually as a result of too much interference on the bearing fit or a housing that is slightly out of round. I can check all that when I've got it apart but... I can't seem to get them out. Both bearings sit directly on the wheel spindle, not on a tube as shwon in the service sheets I have. Between the bearings is a spacer tube and as this is the same (or very similar) ID to the bearings I cannot get behind either bearing to drive them out. I assume they both butt up against shoulders in the hub itself. Does this sound right? If so how do I remove them? I have got bearing race extractors at work that I could probably employ if I removed the rubber seals...

From memory the bearings are RLS7 but don't quote me on that.

Singles / Re: Nightmare.......almost!
« on: 09 May, 2021, 18:47:10 »
Hermes are hopeless. I hope I never have to deal with them ever again!

The Star and Garter / Re: ROCOL A.S.P ANTI-SCUFFING PASTE.
« on: 25 April, 2021, 22:18:44 »
The only use of it I personally know of is to lubricate the small splines on a coupling sleeve used when fitting a Fairey overdrive to a Series Land Rover - in use the splines in question get very little if any lubrication from the gearbox oil so the application of a dry film lubrication is specified by Fairey (and Land Rover when they offered it as an official option). I use Rocol 'Dry Moly Paste' on mine which is a similar high load dry film lubricant.

Rocol stuff is pricey - for a toothpaste sized tube of 'Dry Moly Paste' I paid about 35 from my local engineers suppliers around 10 years ago.

If you have some time on your hands, divide it up into little sachets and sell it on to Land Rover owners, I know someone does (or did?) do this already on eBay.

The Star and Garter / Re: Mileage checks
« on: 23 April, 2021, 14:35:53 »
Different sized sprockets will also affect the reading, if the drive is taken from the gearbox (obviously different primary drive gearing wouldn't affect the speedo)
As said different tyres and pressures will affect it also, but I have to say 3 miles over such a short distance is a big discrepancy - near enough 10%

Singles / Re: Indian Tank for B33
« on: 22 April, 2021, 20:35:35 »
We've got an Indian made tank on my partner's Ariel. It's chromed and very good quality really, although the panels were repainted to match the bike colour. Would I buy one? Probably, yes!

Singles / Re: M33 noisy tappets, or...
« on: 22 April, 2021, 20:31:27 »
Glad it all worked out.

My suggestion was from experience, I recently had the same problem on my partner's Ariel NH. The lifter was slightly binding and once removed revealed the tappet was set to an alarmingly large clearance! With the lifter fitted it felt okay... I reset the tappets and refit the lifter. Took a few goes to get the right amount of clearance before it touched the rocker arm - a much better design on the B31/B33

The Star and Garter / Re: UNS thread
« on: 22 April, 2021, 06:46:35 »

probably supplied as an alternative to BSC as the same thread angle 60', same as some suppliers send M5 for 2BA.
I should.hope not! They're close, and often fasteners interchange but they aren't the same diameter or pitch (Or thread angle - 60 vs 47.5)

Using an UN form instead of BSCy isn't too bad, as chaz says they are indeed both 60 degrees with only minor detail differences on the peak and trough radii etc. BS at 55 degrees with the same major diameter and pitch won't necessarily go together with a 60 degree thread, the flank contact will be a little poor but the minor (root) diameter is smaller on a 55 degree thread. This means a 55 degree bolt will go into a 60 degree tapped hole, but a 60 bolt shouldn't go into a 55 degree tapped.hole.

A lot of this is looking onto it too deeply, as for a lot of mass produced fasteners the tolerances are quite large and as such some will go together when strictly speaking they shouldn't... this is helpful for low stress applications as it can get you out of a hole but not ideal!

Singles / Re: Stop light not working
« on: 21 April, 2021, 19:39:39 »
If you're getting 6v at the terminal in the bulb holder with the switch pulled then the wiring up to there should check out... SHOULD.
Multimeters will show a voltage reading when the current is so so very low, so sometimes a dry/broken joint might still show as transmitting power but as soon as you actually load the circuit up (with a bulb or whatever) then sometimes the joint then 'fails' and there's 0v. In many cases a test light is mich better for fault finding (easily made with a bulb holder, some wire and a pair of crocodile clips or similar)

On the other hand I think your issue is probably an earth issue, or the bulb. You said the multimeter was connected to the battery earth. Try the meter across the bulb contact and the base of the lamp unit, or check for continuity between lamp base and battery earth.

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