Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Mike40M

Pages: 1 ... 5 6 [7]
Which BSA do you ride? / Re: 50 Years ago
« on: 12 April, 2020, 20:47:05 »
Living in a country not closed down, I took the ex Danish WDB40 out for another test run. One hour 50/50 gravel and asphalt. One remaining issue is exhaust backfire rolling off throttle. Otherwise a pleasant bike if you're not in a hurry.

Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil
« on: 10 April, 2020, 22:46:51 »
Four reasons. Already using some 20 different kinds of oils. Don't want to add another one.
I prefer things I can get immediately at a local shop instead of waiting a couple of days for delivery.
For the forks I already have 5 different viscosity fork oils.
Price. I pay 3.21/litre for the oil I use in the race bikes. (Except the Manx which uses an environmentally friendly non fossil oil called R40)

Singles / Re: Primary chaincase oil
« on: 10 April, 2020, 17:34:36 »
Waking up an old thread, though most seems to be said. Looks like the unit singles can use almost anything liquid in the primary.
I uses a lot of racing 10W-50 API SM, JASO MA2, ACEA A3 synthetic in both modern and classic race bikes.
Anybody think I can't use it in my unit singles?

Singles / Most useful mods on a B40 Mk1?
« on: 31 March, 2020, 10:56:20 »
Fairly new to this model, I'd like some advice on what to improve. It will mainly be used for less than a 100 miles trips at moderate speeds on asphalt and gravel roads, sometimes forest paths. When I got it, it already had alloy mudguards, a small seat, high level exhaust and a Boyer ignition. Since then I've replaced most of the electrical system. Fitted a modern regulator/rectifier. Added a capacitor so now it starts without battery. I've made a new battery tray for a slightly smaller battery. Relocated it to the left side to be able to adjust idling on the Monobloc without having to remove the battery first. Now weighting 132 kg dry. I think a decent weight.
It has a bellmouth with gauze now. I think I will add a sock foam filter. Uses them on the Honda classic racer and the Vincent with no need to change jetting.
A fuel filter might be a good idea as I'm not certain about the inside of the tank
The external oil filter fitted to military bikes is missing, so I think a Commando type filter will fit where the battery was before. Is there any smaller oil filter you recommend?
Are there any magnetic sump and gearbox drain plugs that I shall fit? Any improvement for draining the crankcase?
Maybe I'll add something for bringing snacks and tools with me.
Maybe add a skid plate like the one I have on the Victor.
What else do you recommend?

Which BSA do you ride? / Re: My BSA's
« on: 17 March, 2020, 07:19:06 »
I prefer the Motul Gear 300 Oil 75W90 GL-5, which according to the data sheet is yellow metal friendly.
Recommended by TTI for their racing gearboxes. They also recommend Castrol Syntrax 75W90 GL-5, but I haven't checked its data sheet for bushing compatibility.

Which BSA do you ride? / 50 Years ago
« on: 14 March, 2020, 18:07:19 »
In 1970 I bought a new 441 Victor Special. In 1983 it melted down in a barn fire. As neither the -59 Manx nor the -52 Vincent is useful on gravel roads, I got a fairly decent and cheap B40 Mk I a couple of months ago. Finished fixing the most obvious problems this week.
Two days ago I saw an ad about a -70  Victor Special. On the pictures it looked exactly as I remembered them. A 270 km trip to check at it in detail. It has only gone about 10000 Km ( some 6000 miles ) and the original paint is good. Only fault I found was that the speedo was very friendly, waving merrily to me. On test riding I found that I had forgotten how nimble and pleasant to ride they are. So today it has got a new home.
No need to post a photo, as it looks as in a period sales brochure.
My only problem so far is that I can't allow myself to modify anything on a totally original bike.

Singles / Re: B40 MkI seat mounting
« on: 23 February, 2020, 18:22:04 »
Update. After some more thinking, I decided to make a quickie. Just welded a nut on top of the halfpipe. A right length of threaded bar. Counter nut on the bar. Fitted the tank. Piece of cake. A little wiggling of the tank to get it right. Finally tightened the jubilee clips. Easy if the clip screws are on the bottom and slightly inclined.
Test did go so well, I'll keep it like that.
Did not mention that inner diameter of the exhaust pipe is 35mm, same as frame tube o.d.

Singles / Re: B40 MkI seat mounting
« on: 23 February, 2020, 15:49:21 »
Chaz, read  that you are thinking of welding on a tank lug. I found a way to attach a lug without welding it on the frame. After a lot of thinking, I found a simple solution. Cut a 2.5" piece of a 38mm ( 1 1/2" ) exhaust pipe. Cut it in halves. Put one half on the frame tube. Use two jubilee clips to hold it on the frame.
Sorry, has not yet figured out how to fix the bolt to the pipe half.

Singles / Re: B40 MkI seat mounting
« on: 16 February, 2020, 12:51:25 »
Thanks though the link refers to the earlier model frame. Sadly, there is no crossbar on my frame. Some vandal also removed the tank bracket. On  the bottom there is nothing except some threaded holes. I guess the best way to go is to make an U-formed bracket with a slot and attach it to the saddle. Then making a horizontal cross bar, somehow attach it to the frame. This would solve the front mounting. The rear will be much easier. Making a bracket for the tank holding screw and fix it on the frame will be a bit trickier.
Can't understand why some people abuse frames with hacksaws and angle grinders. Should be needed a licence with background check for buying those items.

Singles / B40 MkI seat mounting
« on: 15 February, 2020, 17:53:26 »
I found that PO had fitted the seat in a highly unconventional way. To get it off, I had to remove rear fender, air filter box and oil tank.
So a better way to fasten the seat seems like a good idea. Can't find out how it was made at BSA.
Anybody can help by explaining how it should be? A picture or two would help.

Singles / Re: B40 swing silentbloc
« on: 31 January, 2020, 16:32:24 »
Finally got parts for it. Luckily the new silentblocs the same i.d as the old ones. No need to replace them. The new axle is a tight fit in the silentblocs. But one interesting part remains. Find or make a shim.

Set up the swingarm in the hydraulic press to check that the silentblocs were tight to each other. Test fitted it on the bike. Now axial play was 1.05 mm (.040"). My guess is that a PO didn,t manage to get them together tightening the axle nut. After some miles, it started to rotate between axle and silentblocs. Less life than the previous design with bronze bushes and a grease cup.

Singles / B40 swing silentbloc
« on: 15 January, 2020, 15:33:22 »
I'm new to this forum. Recently I bought a probably ex Danish military bike, in civilized trim.
It works well but there is a significant play, both axially and radially in the swing arm.
After disassembly. silentblocs rubber seems to be in decent shape.
Shaft diameter is 20.35 mm and the inner diameter of the silentblocs are 20.8 and 20.85. Seems the play of almost .5 mm ( .020" ) is what I felt wiggling the swing. It also is has an axial play of .7 mm ( .030" ). I believe that BSA's intention was that tightening the spindle nut should squeeze the silentblocks tight into the frame. If I put a shim between the silentbloc and the frame, I believe it will make it easier to thighten the nut as the frame don't have to flex as much. Still the radial play would remain.
Anybody knows spindle and silentbloc diameters?
Any suggestions on how to fix it?

Pages: 1 ... 5 6 [7]