Four reasons. Already using some 20 different kinds of oils. Don't want to add another one.
I prefer things I can get immediately at a local shop instead of waiting a couple of days for delivery.
For the forks I already have 5 different viscosity fork oils.
Price. I pay £3.21/litre for the oil I use in the race bikes. (Except the Manx which uses an environmentally friendly non fossil oil called R40)

Fairly new to this model, I'd like some advice on what to improve. It will mainly be used for less than a 100 miles trips at moderate speeds on asphalt and gravel roads, sometimes forest paths. When I got it, it already had alloy mudguards, a small seat, high level exhaust and a Boyer ignition. Since then I've replaced most of the electrical system. Fitted a modern regulator/rectifier. Added a capacitor so now it starts without battery. I've made a new battery tray for a slightly smaller battery. Relocated it to the left side to be able to adjust idling on the Monobloc without having to remove the battery first. Now weighting 132 kg dry. I think a decent weight.
It has a bellmouth with gauze now. I think I will add a sock foam filter. Uses them on the Honda classic racer and the Vincent with no need to change jetting.
A fuel filter might be a good idea as I'm not certain about the inside of the tank
The external oil filter fitted to military bikes is missing, so I think a Commando type filter will fit where the battery was before. Is there any smaller oil filter you recommend?
Are there any magnetic sump and gearbox drain plugs that I shall fit? Any improvement for draining the crankcase?
Maybe I'll add something for bringing snacks and tools with me.
Maybe add a skid plate like the one I have on the Victor.
What else do you recommend?

In 1970 I bought a new 441 Victor Special. In 1983 it melted down in a barn fire. As neither the -59 Manx nor the -52 Vincent is useful on gravel roads, I got a fairly decent and cheap B40 Mk I a couple of months ago. Finished fixing the most obvious problems this week.
Two days ago I saw an ad about a -70  Victor Special. On the pictures it looked exactly as I remembered them. A 270 km trip to check at it in detail. It has only gone about 10000 Km ( some 6000 miles ) and the original paint is good. Only fault I found was that the speedo was very friendly, waving merrily to me. On test riding I found that I had forgotten how nimble and pleasant to ride they are. So today it has got a new home.
No need to post a photo, as it looks as in a period sales brochure.
My only problem so far is that I can't allow myself to modify anything on a totally original bike.

Chaz, read  that you are thinking of welding on a tank lug. I found a way to attach a lug without welding it on the frame. After a lot of thinking, I found a simple solution. Cut a 2.5" piece of a 38mm ( 1 1/2" ) exhaust pipe. Cut it in halves. Put one half on the frame tube. Use two jubilee clips to hold it on the frame.
Sorry, has not yet figured out how to fix the bolt to the pipe half.

I found that PO had fitted the seat in a highly unconventional way. To get it off, I had to remove rear fender, air filter box and oil tank.
So a better way to fasten the seat seems like a good idea. Can't find out how it was made at BSA.
Anybody can help by explaining how it should be? A picture or two would help.

I'm new to this forum. Recently I bought a probably ex Danish military bike, in civilized trim.
It works well but there is a significant play, both axially and radially in the swing arm.
After disassembly. silentblocs rubber seems to be in decent shape.
Shaft diameter is 20.35 mm and the inner diameter of the silentblocs are 20.8 and 20.85. Seems the play of almost .5 mm ( .020" ) is what I felt wiggling the swing. It also is has an axial play of .7 mm ( .030" ). I believe that BSA's intention was that tightening the spindle nut should squeeze the silentblocks tight into the frame. If I put a shim between the silentbloc and the frame, I believe it will make it easier to thighten the nut as the frame don't have to flex as much. Still the radial play would remain.
Anybody knows spindle and silentbloc diameters?
Any suggestions on how to fix it?