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Messages - Mike40M

Pages: 1 ... 4 5 [6] 7
76
Singles / Re: Lubricating control cables
« on: 03 June, 2020, 01:38:41 »
One well known manufacturer says:
All our control cables are Teflon lined, and do not need any form of lubrication.
Copper grease can be used on cable nipples if required.
How do you clean it? This is particularly relevant for dirt bikes. We recommend using WD 40 or a very light oil such as 3 in 1. This effectively washes away dirt from the cable, without clogging it.
Many customers insist on lubricating cables, we would say you donít have to but if you must, use a very light oil such as 3 in 1.


77
Singles / Re: B40 SS90 breather options
« on: 02 June, 2020, 16:56:04 »
I suggest doing as we do on the racebikes. There, according to regulations, we have a tube stuck into a catch tank of at least .5 litre. Then you can see how much is actually going out. Simply a piece of  clear plastic hose, a couple of tyraps and an empty Guinness can or one of those plastic Famous Grouse bottles. Or what ever you have. After seeing what happens, you know better what to do.

78
Singles / Re: B40 SS90 - still not right....
« on: 31 May, 2020, 19:55:58 »
Main jet size may depend on what kind of air filter you have.

79
Singles / Re: B40 SS90 - still not right....
« on: 30 May, 2020, 20:53:10 »
Rereading your initial post, you mentioned the settings of your Concentric.
If you check a recent post in https://www.bsaownersclub.co.uk/bsaoc_forum/index.php?topic=8381.msg43899#new
you'll find a difference in main jet.

80
Singles / Re: B40 SS90 - still not right....
« on: 30 May, 2020, 18:57:45 »
If you ride it at high revs with small throttle opening, does it misfire?
It could be a carburettor issue.

81
Singles / Re: B 40 1961 oil
« on: 29 May, 2020, 20:54:17 »
The lower drain screw is below the brake pedal. The one towards the rear is a 'sleeve nut' which is a level plug. Originally they where cheese head and painted red.
From the user handbook 1967.
At present I'm testing using a modern motorcycle oil ( JASO MA2 ) for primary as it's made for wet clutches. Only done a 100 miles yet, so a bit early to tell.

82
Singles / Re: Gear oil life
« on: 29 May, 2020, 15:06:59 »
It's the automatic rust prevention system designed in old English bikes.

83
Singles / Re: Gear oil life
« on: 29 May, 2020, 13:28:47 »
When I got a TTI gearbox for my Manx, the following was submitted:
Use Motul Gear 300 Oil 75W90 GL-5, or Castrol Syntrax 75W90 GL-5 or similar spec oil. Do not use shockproof oils.
Change oil after 5 laps, then again after 10 laps Thereafter change oil after every second race meeting.
 So I simply use it in the other bikes too. According to the Motul data sheet it is friendly to all metals used in gearboxes.
There is discussions on the use of GL5 oils as some of them are not friendly to yellow metal bushings.
I think that the reason for oil changes in a gearbox is that the oil gets contaminated with small abrasive metal particles that wear produces.

84
Singles / Re: Bit of a catastrophe
« on: 25 May, 2020, 19:26:36 »
I usually apply a lot of sawdust to get rid of most of the oil. Maybe the sawdust could be sprayed with some kerosene first.
Working with hydraulics now and then. So oil spills is the norm.
How to get rid of the remaining oil, I don't know. Had a similar accident on a race last year. Had to throw away the pit map eventually.

85
Singles / Re: Washers - copper, steel, spring
« on: 21 May, 2020, 19:40:42 »
As your copper washers did their job, I see no point in using anything else.
Only problem with reusing them is that they tend to harden with age and use. Simply heat them until red (more than 400C) to soften (anneal) them.

86
Singles / Re: 1967 wd B40
« on: 20 May, 2020, 10:06:34 »
Thinking of replacing the worn Monobloc from a T110 on my wd B40.
Did you buy yours as specified by Burlen-AMAL (626/4) for the B40 Australian WD?
Seems to be a good idea to wait ordering one until you've reported yours is running well.

87
Singles / Re: Is it a B40 lump?
« on: 16 May, 2020, 15:33:34 »
On the B40 Mk1 (side point), which is the only B40 I have, according to the owners manual.
Drain plug under the gearbox pointing straight down.
Level plug between kickstart and gear lever.
Filler plug on top of gearbox.
Mine is stamped on engine with B40 GD xxxx, indicating it was a Danish military motorcycle.

88
Singles / Re: Fork drain screws ( 1965 B40F)
« on: 15 May, 2020, 11:17:03 »
Is it really 2BA? Checked the spare parts manual for the -67 B40 Mk1. It states the screw #41-5141 is a "SCREW, MACHINE BSC, steel, cadmium plated, 3/16 in. x 11/32 in." It should have 32 tpi.
Though the -65 B40 parts manual  has part number 01-02-1309. No mention of dimensions.
2BA and 3/16BSC are quite close in dimensions. o.d 4.7 to 4.762 mm. thread 31.36 vs. 32 tpi or in metric 0.81 vs 0.79mm.
Of course BSA could have changed dimensions, but for what reason?

89
Singles / Re: Voltage Regulator for C15?
« on: 13 May, 2020, 19:17:38 »
Paul Goff also sells 6V rectifier/regulators.
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyelectrex.htm

90
Singles / Re: Snap connector tool
« on: 13 May, 2020, 10:50:49 »
Blackthou wrote " I originally tinned the wires before fitting the bullet but our chief of sparks advised against it."
Reason is that the solder tin creeps, relaxing the strain, making connection irregular.
Found after investigating house fires. Nowadays not allowed in electrical installations.
A note on soldering learnt when working with AA radar stations.
If the solder tin flows into the wire making it stiff, the wire will break due to vibrations.
One reason to crimp instead of soldering. If you haven't proper training.

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