A good voltage supplied to the headlamp is vital to a safe night ride. There is a voltage drop both in the cable from the battery to the headlamp and on the return from headlamp to battery. Add the voltage losses in battery connections, fuse, light switch, dimmer switch and other connections. You could end up with a quite low voltage on the headlamp. Checking headlamp voltage compared to battery voltage is a good thing.
Apart from keeping all those parts mentioned in good order, thicker wires is also a good idea.
I think heavier gauge cables withstand the vibrations on my bikes better.
I have a huge supply of 1.5 and 2.5 sq.mm. wire since my work on industrial control systems, so I mainly uses those.
Completed rewiring my WD B40 a couple of weeks ago. H4 headlamp, Boyer, Rectifier/Regulator from Paul Goff. To my surprise, it is charging with headlamp on when idling.

The only catch tanks I've seen on BSAs are on a couple of pre -47 classic race B33. Beer cans fastened with Ty-raps.

It's fairly easy. First a little slack in throttle cable when slide is bottomed. Warm up engine. Then set a good idle speed with the slide stop. Then adjust pilot screw until you get highest revs. Lower slide stop till decent idle. Check by changing pilot screw again. If revs go down whichever way you turn pilot screw, you're spot on.

I had engine at compression stroke and could feel air leaks with my right hand. A good thing with high level exhausts.
Put a mark on the pipe where it came out of the head. Dismantled. The pipe could now go another 5mm into the head. Practiced my blacksmith skills making a new bracket. Painted it black. Why does paint take so much time to dry? Cut off rear end of the pipe an inch. Makes it possible to fit silencer without removing rear shock. As I sometimes is a belt and braces type, smeared on high temperature silicone on joints and assembled. Had an hour tour on the Ninja to cool a bit. Today +30C. Then a test ride. No popping. Problem solved.
Even better, the lack of response at more than half throttle gone, now pulls much better.

Been busy riding other bikes. Got a couple of minutes to check. The exhaust pipe seemed to be a tight fit in the head. But connecting an air hose to the end of the silencer revealed a subsantial leak. Also a small leak in the joint between pipe and silencer. Will see when I have time to fix it.

Not unusual. Happened me a couple of times since I bought my first British motorcycle 55 years ago. Two weeks ago on the Victor Special. A decent blow with my hand on the side of the carburettor. Normal practice, problem solved.
What I believe without being certain is that tickling sometimes reposition float or needle. A nice smack reminds it where it should be.

I have the habit of reading different forums concerning the bikes I have. As always, you can't  believe everything on the net. But some people seems to have very long experience.  Some thoughts of them:
Measuring flow on new jets sometimes shows up to 10% difference.
The parts in a Monobloc that wears is the throttle slide and bore. Also needle and needle jet. On a worn carb, increased throttle air leak can be compensated by higher flow through needle jet. Replacing needle and needle jet can make it run weak.
Fuel level in float chamber can change replacing float, check.
Not certain if it applies to Monoblocs, but a new float don't always move free, check if it needs trimming.
Personally have bad experience with a new Matchbox float chamber from AMAL. Even after adjusting, it didn't supply enough for long straights, racing the Manx.